Considering the British imprint on the French house, it makes perfect sense that Chloé launched its sixty-year retrospective book, Chloé Attitudes, in London. “Chloé’s had this great succession of cool, young British designers,” Sarah Mower said at last night’s party at the new Serpentine Sackler Gallery. “They are not pretentious and they don’t talk about great lofty inspirations and references. They just talk about what we want, what girls want to wear. That’s really Chloé.”
Succinct, given Mower was tasked with writing the text for the tome. The fete drew such guests as Eliza Doolittle, Damien Hirst, Pixie Geldof (armed with her own Chloé bag), and the label’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller.
“Chloé has always stood for beautiful femininity,” said Waight Keller, who often turns to the house’s archives for inspiration. “But it’s been interesting to realize there has been surrealism, graphicness…there are other facets to the Chloé girl that aren’t always so evident.”
Published by Rizzoli, with art direction by industry legend Marc Ascoli, Chloé Attitudes delves deep into the house’s history. As Mower described it, “It’s a detective story, because there was no real archive for years.” Dating from its founding in 1952, the book draws on Chloé’s rich collaborations with groundbreaking photographers like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, and Patrick Demarchelier.
Ascoli and Mower spoke of finding the common denominator through designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo. Waight Keller said it’s simply “an attitude,” but Mower went further: “It’s really an optimistic spirit. It has always been about capturing the spirit of the times, how girls have changed with the times, and what they want at the moment. There’s a feminist thread throughout.” Judging by the evening’s crowd, dressed in Chloé’s greatest hits, the house is still hitting the nail on the head. Of the girls, by the girls, and for the girls—that’s fashion democracy in action.