56 posts tagged "Chloe"
“We had to start with the basics,” explained FIT graduate student and curator Kristen Haggerty. She’s talking about the origins of the university’s just-launched exhibition, Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the Biker Jacket, a study of the motorcycle jacket’s evolution from a utilitarian Schott Bros. basic, to a symbol of post-WWII rebellion, to the modern-day fashion staple. “The first Perfecto was made in 1928 and was sold by Harley-Davidson—it’s really what everyone thinks of when they think of a biker jacket,” said Haggerty, gesturing to a 1980 replica of the late twenties belted classic with an exposed zipper. “Yes, it’s a very stylish garment, but every one of those elements means something.”
The show, which opens with an in-depth examination of the iconic Perfecto, combines documentary photography, press clippings, and a tightly curated collection of original pieces to shed light on the now 80-some-year history of the moto. Wares by Helmut Lang, Rick Owens, and a particularly memorable tutu moto jacket from Comme des Garçons’ Spring 2005 outing display the many ways in which fashion designers have appropriated and interpreted the garment. “Over the years, the Perfecto became something much more than a utilitarian biker jacket,” Haggerty told Style.com. “There were times when it was pretty subversive. Modern designers [have also] really gone above and beyond. It’s a garment that can exist in two different places at the same time, and have meaning for both of them.” All one needs to do is browse a rack at Versace, Chloé, Balmain, or Saint Laurent to see what she’s talking about. The exhibition, however, will help you understand and, dare we say, appreciate it.
Beyond Rebellion will be on view at The Museum at FIT, Tuesdays through Fridays, through April 5.
Anyone who knows me knows that I get pretty excited about all things fashion, whether it’s a shoe, a bag, a dress, or beyond. (I am a market director, after all!) I’m always looking for the next item, the next trend, or simply what I must have. From here on out, I’ll be offering a regular rundown of what I’m crazy about, and sharing my wish list with you. Of course, we’re excited to hear what you’re crazy for, too, so please share your favorite new designers, trends, and products with us in the comments.
1. Now that I’m a mother of two, I’ve found myself carrying more and more things in my handbag. Chloé’s Baylee bag looks professional and, thanks to its cross-body strap, is also a practical, hands-free weekend option. It’s been on my wish list for a while, so I think it might be time to give in.
Chloé Baylee bag, $2,250, Buy it now
2. Thanks to Isabel Marant, we have all been wearing high-top wedges; thanks to Phoebe Philo, we’ve been addicted to slip-ons. Now comes Karl Lagerfeld, changing the high-fashion sneaker game with his Spring ’14 couture trainers. After last week’s Chanel Couture show, we all wanted to go back to the nineties. If you too were inspired by the runway and are looking for a (slightly more affordable) pair now, check out Lanvin’s holographic kicks, which retail for $695.
Lanvin holographic leather sneakers, $695, Buy it now
3. By January, my skin is so dry, even with all the extra moisturizer I insist on using. I’ve found that fashion-friendly sweatshirts are softer on my skin than any cashmere. It’s also been a uniform around the Style.com offices—everyone is wearing their sweats to work.
Être Cécile sweatshirt, $148.50, Buy it now
4. It’s freaking cold in New York. It’s never been this cold as long as I’ve lived here. That being said, a great snow boot is a necessity. O Jour’s furry-lined pair is all I want to wear. Charlotte Casiraghi was spotted wearing them last week.
O Jour Red Hare boots, $1,070, Buy it now
5. While trying to decide who did the best job staying warm and looking chic during the Couture shows in Paris, Emmanuelle Alt stood out. Thanks to her, I’m now craving Isabel Marant Étoile’s quilted kimono coat.
Isabel Marant Étoile quilted coat, $745, Buy it now
“Polar Vortex” was the phrase on everyone’s blistered lips this week during a bitter cold spell that sent most of the U.S. into a deep freeze. As we learned firsthand while trudging to and from appointments on the city’s icy sidewalks, even the most thermodynamic winter coat (plus a hat and gloves) wasn’t enough for bone-chilling temperatures like these. Did designers divine this subzero weather? The new Pre-Fall collections offer plenty of fresh ideas for bundling up in style. Blanket dressing, in particular, has emerged as one of the season’s most welcome trends. Labels including Acne Studios, Chloé, Vionnet, and Chanel featured soft wraps made for swaddling. For the finale at his Burberry Prorsum menswear show in London yesterday, Christopher Bailey draped heritage plaid blankets over each model’s left shoulder. Geraldo da Conceicao at Sonia Rykiel, meanwhile, struck a similar cozy note with piled-on sweaters draped around the neck like stoles.
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”