3 posts tagged "Chris Gelinas"
The panel of experts has spoken, the votes are in, and today we can announce the twelve talents who will move on to the final round of the heated LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition. Atto by Julien Dossena, CG by Chris Gelinas, Gabriele Colangelo, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, Jacquemus by Simon Porte Jacquemus, Miuniku by Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, Thomas Tait, Tillmann Lauterbach, Tim Coppens, Simone Rocha, Suno by Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty, and Vika Gazinskaya will go head-to-head for the award’s 300,000 euro grant. A slideshow of the designers’ looks is available here.
But wait, you might be thinking. Weren’t there only supposed to be ten finalists? Yes, but LVMH’s team of forty industry insiders simply could not decide after surveying the work of the competition’s thirty semifinalists during an event at Paris fashion week. “It’s so hard,” offered Louis Vuitton’s executive vice president Delphine Arnault, who has been spearheading the initiative. “When we compiled the votes, four designers all had the same amount, so we let twelve in. I think it’s good.” We’re sure the finalists would agree.
The dozen men’s and womenswear designers, who hail from round the globe, will each have fifteen minutes to present their Fall ’14 collections at the LVMH headquarters in May. Judges including Karl Lagerfeld, Raf Simons, Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci, and others will consider their efforts, and later choose a winner. “All the [LVMH Prize] designers are really enthusiastic,” offered Arnault. “I’m sure the contestants are nervous, but at the same time, it’s an amazing opportunity to meet all these people.” In a room filled with powerhouses like that, we’d be nervous, too, but the final twelve can take solace in the fact that at least one prestigious juror has been in their shoes. “Karl [Lagerfeld] started his career after winning a prize, but he told me there were 200,000 applicants, not 1,200 as we’ve had,” relayed Arnault. “Karl even had to sit and draw in front of the judges to prove that someone else hadn’t done his sketches for him.” As for the eighteen semifinalists who didn’t make the cut, they can take solace in the fact that they’re eligible to apply again next year. “I’m sure they must be very disappointed, but I hope they see it as an opportunity. And I hope we helped them to make some key connections in the industry.”
Back in November, we broke the news of LVMH’s new 300,000-euro LVMH Prize for Young Designers. According to WWD, 1,211 talents applied, and today the short list of thirty semifinalists, who will go on to present their collections to an esteemed panel of experts during Paris fashion week, were announced. CG by Chris Gelinas, Tim Coppens, Suno by Erin Beatty and Max Osterweis, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air, and Creatures of the Wind by Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters are among the New York-based brands that made the cut. Notable international names include London’s Craig Green, Simone Rocha, Thomas Tait, Meadham Kirchhoff (designed by Edward Meadham and Benjamin Kirchhoff), and Marques’Almeida (designed by Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida); Paris’ Jacquemus (by Simon Porte Jacquemus) and Atto (by Julien Dossena); Rome’s Stella Jean; and more.
Following the Paris presentations, judges will select ten hopefuls from the group of thirty, and these finalists will continue on to compete for the big prize. The decision, which will be made by a group including Nicolas Ghesquière, Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, Humberto Leon, Carol Lim, Phoebe Philo, Raf Simons, and Riccardo Tisci, will be announced in May.
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Chris Gelinas
Need to Know: Chris Gelinas presented his debut womenswear collection for Spring ’14, and out of the gate, the emerging talent won this season’s Made for Peroni Young Designer Award—a prize that comes with $40,000 and a confirmed slot to show at Made fashion week for Fall ’14. Given that he spent time at such houses as Balenciaga, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler before breaking out on his own, it’s no surprise that attention to detail and fabric innovation were key in the up-and-comer’s range. Inspired by the idea that we need to be protected from the sun, Gelinas turned out pieces that were simultaneously feminine and structured, carefree and reserved. For instance, a long-sleeved tea dress constructed from navy techno shirting was trimmed with laminated, painted, and pleated horsehair that, the designer explained, was meant to recall flowers. The dress offered a copper zip down the front, so its wearer can be as demure (or as saucy) as she likes. Meanwhile, a pair of sheer, white, wide-leg trousers was crafted out of a light, spongy monofil spacer fabric. “It’s the new neoprene,” Gelinas explained in his studio. “And the pants just float around your legs.”
Cutout frocks; structured, zip-detail leather jackets; and a white and blue “beach towel” jacquard sundress were also standouts, and a digital hibiscus-print georgette shirt gown with a zip front was fresh and easy. All in all, an impressive first go for Mr. Gelinas—we’ll be keeping an eye on this one.
He Says: “This season started by thinking about the effects of—and protection from—the sun. This evolved into the idea of something very hard and strong, versus something very vulnerable and delicate.”
Where to Find It: As this is his debut season, Gelinas isn’t stocked anywhere just yet, but we have a feeling we’ll be seeing his tactile wares in downtown boutiques soon enough.