4 posts tagged "Christian Dior Haute Couture"
Marc Jacobs shook up the Spring ’14 season with his postapocalyptic presentation. His foreboding runway, littered with trash and cigarette butts, was a far cry from the lighthearted pastels and florals we usually associate with the Spring shows. Naturally, models needed some sensible footwear in order to traipse through Jacobs’ tattered wasteland. Thus, the designer paired his Victorian gowns with embellished, slip-on, rubber-soled sneaker-like flats.
A sentiment long embraced by the street-style set, this fusion of sport and high-fashion continues during the couture collections, where both Raf Simons and Karl Lagerfeld have featured sneaks. Yesterday, the former piqued our interest at Dior when he sent out girls-on-the-go in mid-length gowns and trainers. This morning at Chanel, the latter proved he could kick it, too. Each of Lagerfeld’s runway looks—his finale bride included—boasted a hopelessly cool (and appropriately haute) pair of sneakers. Could this be the end of the sky-high pump? Probably not, but considering the runaround that will inevitably accompany the upcoming ready-to-wear shows, we’d definitely walk a mile in these shoes.
The official Haute Couture calendar published by the Chambre Syndicale had listed two Dior shows: one for press and a second for clients. But at 6 p.m. on Monday, a third show took place to accommodate a particularly special group of attendees.
Over the weekend, nearly eighty students from sixteen of the leading fashion schools around the world arrived in Paris for an immersive Dior experience. They visited the maison’s ateliers on Avenue Montaigne, participated in a conference with designers from across LVMH, and attended the Spring 2014 runway show.
“It’s good to see this world from the inside,” said 23-year-old Flora Miranda Seierl, who is in her final year at Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts. “Today we heard from people who went to our schools who actually work at LVMH. You never think of it like this, but it’s real people doing real jobs. And so you realize that it’s not unreachable.”
Following the show, held on the grounds of the Musée Rodin, the group went somewhere usually reserved for VIPs: backstage.
“It’s like waiting for Madonna,” gushed Central Saint Martins fashion knitwear student Matty Bovan, as Dior creative director Raf Simons posed for photos and signed program notes.
“For me, in my position at this moment, it’s wonderful to connect with students and the atelier people who don’t get to see the show,” said the designer moments later.
Simons noted that an experience like this affords students some perspective—namely, to place personal goals ahead of commercial ones. “You shouldn’t think about the system, but just what you really, really believe in. And then in the beginning, you reach out to other people who believe in it, rather than those who are in control,” he said.
Designer Walter Van Beirendonck, who showed his men’s collection in Paris last week and still teaches at Antwerp’s Royal Academy, said the access was invaluable to his students. “It’s a place that you don’t usually enter, and for students to see that and learn about this story and how it all works, it’s very amazing.”
The Antwerp connection was not by coincidence. Back when he was studying industrial design, Simons applied for an internship with Van Beirendonck, who accepted the graduate despite his lack of fashion experience.
But savoir faire is savoir faire, no matter the medium. Just ask Jo Miller, who is studying to be a milliner at the London’s Royal College of Art. “This will completely change how I feel about my own designs. It’s a completely different world and could only enrich my work.”
Or, as her teacher, hat designer Flora McLean, put it, “My students need to learn very specific technologies for how to make shoes and hats and handbags. I think there was more for them than anybody else because it’s both the technology and the dreamy parts.”
That dream, which ends today, extended beyond European institutions: Parsons The New School for Design and Pratt Institute in New York, as well as China Central Academy of Fine Arts in Beijing and Tokyo’s Bunka Fashion College, were among the invited schools.
When the idea was suggested to Simons that there should be a check-in five years later to see where the students landed, he smiled. “They will probably kick me out,” mused the designer. “But that’s how it should be. That’s the cycle.”
Almost anything Jennifer Lawrence does gets picked up by the Internet, GIF-ed, reblogged, tweeted, and shared twice over. When the Golden Globe winner showed up on the red carpet last Sunday in all her photo-bombing glory, her black banded Spring ’14 Dior Haute Couture gown garnered so much attention that it evolved into a meme overnight. Dubbed “Lawrencing” (though we’d easily have called it something like “Simonsing”), the meme saw online viewers take to social media to showcase their DIY belted creations fashioned from bed sheets, duvets, and, in instances where cats and dogs were involved, “Lawrenced” towels.
While we typically see garments cinched to accentuate the curves of a female body, the Fall menswear collections are proof that holding it together is no longer just a womenswear tactic. Unconventionally placed belts first showed up at MAN when up-and-coming designer Craig Green sent out leather harness-like apparatuses over his languid wares. And when Miuccia gave vests a similar bi-banded treatment on her Prada menswear runway, we couldn’t resist turning on to this unexpected trend. Rick Owens, too, sent suspendered, strap-detailed tunics down his Paris catwalk yesterday. Will fashion-forward gents jump on the bandwagon when fall rolls around? We’ll be keeping our eyes peeled.
While Karl Lagerfeld was literally having his work cut out for him at Chanel Haute Couture (by Kamo, a Japanese hairdresser who created the show’s elaborate paper headdresses), his fellow designers had a slightly different form of scissorwork in mind. The sharp, soot-colored suits at Anne Valérie Hash and Armani Privé recalled the fitted tailoring and moody elegance of the Edwardian era. That age also resurfaced in the exaggerated shoulders inching up toward the models’ chins on a number of runways. Riccardo Tisci, fashion’s dark knight, kept things light at Givenchy by swapping sheer puffs of organza for shoulder pads. Click for a slideshow, then let us know whether Couture’s Edwardiana trend strikes you as fresh or stuck in the past.