44 posts tagged "Christian Lacroix"
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”
Schiaparelli isn’t the only iconic house that’s getting a reboot. WWD reports that French brand Jean Patou—which was founded by its namesake designer in the twenties, and helmed by the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, and Christian Lacroix after Patou’s death—is going to return to the fashion scene. Both a couturier and sportswear trailblazer, Patou, like Schiaparelli, had a way with tenniswear and smart knits—he was even credited with popularizing the cardigan. “We already have plans, we have ideas and know what sort of fashion we would like to do—and even consulted designers, who are all excited, because no matter what school they’ve done, for them Patou is an enormous reference,” the label’s vice president, Bruno Cottard, told the paper. Having ceased to produce couture in 1987 after Lacroix left the house to work on his own label, the brand has lived on through fragrances for the last two and a half decades. Cottard suggested that the house could make its Paris fashion week comeback as soon as a year from now.
With her ArtPop album set to debut in November (and a new song that allegedly leaked today), Lady Gaga has ended her uncharacteristic under-the-radar spell—she’s been recovering from hip surgery since February—reemerging on the scene with a look that’s pared down but no less bold. Earlier this month, she attended artist Robert Wilson’s Watermill Benefit in the Hamptons (where she announced an upcoming project with Wilson and Marina Abramovic), donning a vampy black gown that curved in at the chest to reveal a black lace brassiere. The ensemble, we learned, wasn’t designed by any of Gaga’s favorite haute powerhouses—rather, it was the work of 26-year-old up-and-comer Louise Leconte. “Her stylist wrote me and asked for six or seven looks from my graduation collection, so of course I sent them,” the French-born, Brussels-based designer told Style.com. Continue Reading “Louise Leconte Gets the Gaga Bump” »
Christian Lacroix debuted his much-anticipated couture capsule for the revived house of Schiaparelli in Paris this morning. And, naturally, crafting his eighteen-look fantasy—complete with feather bodices, fur pom-poms, endless embroidery, and embellishments galore—was no simple task. In the above film, the designer takes us behind the scenes of the collection’s creation and gives us a rare glimpse at his complex process. Lensing everything from Lacroix’s first sketches to the final stitch, the short debuts above, exclusively on Style.com.
With her signature hair flip and authoritative pen, Suzy Menkes, who was appointed as the international fashion editor of the new International New York Times last Wednesday, epitomizes “one of a kind.” However, while there is, and always will be, only one Ms. Menkes, this summer, some ambitious bidders will have the chance to dress like her. On July 11, Christie’s will launch a twelve-day online auction of over eighty pieces from Menkes’ wardrobe, including a custom Chanel clutch boasting a gold “Suzy” in the place of the house’s double Cs, as well as vintage wares from Yves Saint Laurent (like a cocktail jacket from 1980 and an ivory pantsuit), Emilio Pucci, Ossie Clark, Christian Lacroix, Dior, and more. Menkes, who reportedly hasn’t purged her closet since 1964, says she initiated the auction because “…there is something sad about clothes laid in a tomb of trunks. They need to live again, and this auction provides the opportunity for them to walk out in the sunshine, to dance the night away, and to give someone else the joy that they gave to me.” While Ms. Menkes is, of course, priceless, most of the auction items will start at under 1,000 pounds.