8 posts tagged "Christophe Lemaire"
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Portuguese-born, Paris-based designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s eponymous line. And to celebrate, Lisbon’s Design and Fashion Museum (MuDe) has asked him to put on a retrospective, which opens tonight and runs through February 16. Together with famed set designer Alex de Betak, Baptista—who created quite a buzz three years ago when he replaced Christophe Lemaire as the creative director of Lacoste—has put together a high-concept show that he hopes will tell the story behind his clothes. In addition to a comprehensive selection of the designer’s clean, sometimes severe, sometimes light-as-air looks from the past decade, Baptista and Betak have built an electronic brain of sorts that showcases his inspiration images, photographs, and sketches on a cluster of screens. “I think it’s really interesting to show people what they never see,” offered Baptista, who did stints at Max Mara and Cerruti before launching his own line in 2003. “I thought it was interesting to show them where it comes from, and how it gets there.” Here, Baptista talks to Style.com about the exhibition, his anniversary, and how he’s watched fashion change—for better and for worse.
Ten years is quite a milestone. When you first launched your line, is this where you thought you’d be a decade down the road?
I think when you start, you have to be aware that the chances of surviving the first five years are slim. It’s quite reassuring to arrive here, and it’s been exciting to experience this progression. And when Lacoste arrived three years ago, it was a big revolution in my life. It’s more than anything I expected.
How do you feel that the role of the fashion designer has changed over the past ten years?
It’s changed a lot. The rhythm has changed. When I first started working fifteen years ago, in all the houses I worked in we had two collections, and then three arrived, and then more and more and more collections, more fashion weeks, more of everything. Sometimes, you need some time to get a little perspective. On the other hand, it’s very exciting and fast-paced. But I always manage to escape into museums and see things. Trying to find some moments to breath is quite important.
Do you prefer the fast pace, or do you miss the old days?
Sometimes I wish that we could have more time to go in depth and try to do the best as we can. It’s funny, because when you talk to people from the industry, almost everyone complains a little bit about these things. [The fashion cycle] is a machine that I think no one can fight.
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
After covering 400-something collections over the past month and a half, we’re finally settling back into our office chairs and putting together the season’s big themes. Reflecting on our favorite moments from the Fall shows, there’s a consensus here at Style.com that the season’s sparest, simplest looks were the strongest. Derek Lam, Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller, and Christophe Lemaire at Hermès were among those who rose above the notion of trends to turn out classic suits, clean blouses, and crisp trousers. Their clothes had the direct, no-fuss appeal of uniforms.
Perhaps designers’ pared-down proposals were a playful jab at flashy street-style scenesters. Are those girls starting to resemble characters out of a comic book, or what? Maybe, just maybe a few of the oft-photographed types outside of Lincoln Center and in the Tuileries will take a back-to-basics approach next time around. A girl can dream, right?
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of Fall’s best anti-fashion fashion.
Change is in the air at Lacoste: In September, longtime creative director Christophe Lemaire showed his final collection for the house, and Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista is gearing up to take the reins. In the world of eyewear, too, the sands are shifting. The label relaunches its sunglass range with a new collection—produced by Marchon, the optical giants who create shades for Fendi, Jil Sander, and Michael Kors, among others—that hits stores tomorrow. The specs draw on the French label’s heritage, including its most notable piece: the polo. In homage to the shirt René Lacoste made famous, several of the new sunglasses come in piqué styles—with, of course, a tiny croc to match.
Lacoste sunglasses, $120 to $180, are available tomorrow at select Lacoste locations; for more information, visit www.marchon.com.
Sportswear From An Oscar Winner, Sunday In The Park With Isaac, Dree And The Best-Dressed Catwalkers Of 2010, And More…
Bend it like… Swank? Hilary Swank is apparently the latest silver screener to get in on the celebrity-design game: She’s developing her own line of sporty activewear. [WWD]
Spend it like… Mizrahi? Isaac takes The New York Times through his Sunday ritual, which includes a morning swim, a midday dog walk, and plenty of HBO before bed. [NYT]
Hem it like… Hemingway? Modelinia walks us through its top ten best-dressed models of 2010, from stalwart veterans like Kate and Natalia to insurgent newcomers like Dree Hemingway (left) and Elisa Sednaoui. [Modelinia]
Bienvenue to Lemaire: WWD checks in with former Lacoste designer Christophe Lemaire, whose first collection for Hermès debuts in March. With all due respect to his predecessor, Jean Paul Gaultier, and his “virtuosity,” Lemaire says his own vision for Hermès will be closer to that of Martin Margiela, who helmed the house from 1998 to 2003. [WWD]
And au revoir to Robin Givhan-at The Washington Post, at least. The paper’s longtime fashion critic, who’s headed to Newsweek and The Daily Beast, signs off with an impassioned defense of fashion and its permanent place in the Beltway. [Washington Post]