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August 30 2014

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36 posts tagged "Christopher Bailey"

Ringing In The Chinese New Year

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Yes, Lane Crawford took advantage of the overlap of Chinese New Year and New York fashion week to introduce itself to New Yorkers with a new year’s bash—complete with ceremonial red envelopes handed out by owner and president Jennifer Woo—but the store isn’t interested in your run-of-the-mill East-meets-West scenario. Fashion director Sarah Rutson, whose own gushing (and well-deserved) fan base on street-style sites continues to grow, has been busy orchestrating the brand’s 160th anniversary project and she wanted something new. “I thought about asking designers to do a China-inspired collection,” she told us last night. “But then I thought I didn’t want the same old references. So I looked at what sells best, and we’re known for emerging designers. So it’s more about introductions. The customer wants to know who all these fashion people are.” That thought translated to tapping friend Christopher Bailey at Burberry to send over 20 trenches for Rutson’s friends, who include Simon Doonan and Lynn Yaeger, to customize with free rein. (Not exactly emerging designers, but fashion people par excellence.) The final projects will be presented at Lane Crawford stores, along with a bit of info on each collaborator come April. The power of a Lane Crawford introduction hasn’t been lost on one attendee. “They flew me out to Hong Kong and China a few months ago just to introduce me,” Jason Wu (pictured, with Woo) said. “You just don’t find that every day.”

Photo: Courtesy of Lane Crawford

Milan Menswear: Shows Of Strength From Dolce, Burberry

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Radici—it’s the Italian word for roots. And radici were the big story of the first day of Milan’s fall menswear shows. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of their men’s collection this year, Dolce & Gabbana flagged Sicily, the wellspring of their inspiration, by screening clips from Giuseppe Tornatore’s soon-to-be-Oscar-nominated Baari above their catwalk, as groups of models walked in the designers’ versions of classic Sicilian style. One group wearing, the worn-out knits and leggings of farm workers, would be followed by another in black velvet suits to suggest the same lot’s Sunday best. If the echoes of the very first Dolce & Gabbana collection for men were intentional, they also gave this show a real backbone, helped by a ballsy model casting that felt like a riposte to the pigeon-chested man-boys who still rule catwalks here. Break the clothes down to the farmers-vs.-aristocrats face-off that Domenico and Stefano originally borrowed from Luchino Visconti’s Sicilian epic The Leopard and you ended up with sturdy cardigan jackets over henleys and the designers’ artfully distressed signature denims, alongside a laser-sharp three-piece pinstripe suit. The finale offered a horde of stubbled toughs in wifebeaters, just like Massimo Girotti in Visconti’s Ossessione, the inspiration for the first ad campaign the duo ran for their menswear two decades ago. Yes, things have come full circle, and it seemed only appropriate that a return to their roots should produce their best collection in years.

See more pictures of the Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2010 show here.

 

Same with Burberry, where Christopher Bailey went back a lot further than 20 years, deep into the history of the house that he has reconfigured as one of the 21st century’s major fashion success stories. Thomas Burberry dressed explorers, pioneers and warriors (the trench coat is so named because soldiers wore it on the front line in the first World War) and that was the heritage Bailey utilized for a menswear collection that was his strongest to date. A parade of outerwear offered everything from a brass-buttoned officer’s coat in army green to a petrol blue leather trench and a shearling-lined flight jacket. The odd fashion flop—those brass buttons used as epaulettes on a sweater, for instance—could be forgiven in the light of the master class in precise military-influenced tailoring that Bailey gave us. But it wasn’t academic at all. More exhilarating—a testament to Bailey’s sense of adventure.

See more pictures of the Burberry Fall 2010 show here.

Photos: Marcio Madeira

Galliano’s Christmas Spirit, Bailey’s New Role, And More…

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More info on John Galliano’s Dior Christmas tree for Claridge’s has surfaced since we first reported on it , and it sounds as awesome as we expected. In lieu of pine needles there will be “crystals, orchids, vines, and lianas,” as well as a leopard, which we’re pretty sure will be fake, but really, we can’t be too sure. [WWD]

Rumor rejected: News that Victoria Beckham was thinking of starting a modeling agency has been denied by her people. She’s got a line of dresses to design, thank you, and those sheaths do not get made by themselves. [Vogue U.K.]

Christopher Bailey gets a raise. We didn’t think you could go much higher than creative director, but Bailey is now Burberry‘s first ever chief creative officer. [WWD]

Last year’s YSL auction was not for the bargain shopper, but this month’s second round may be (slightly) more budget-friendly. Art Deco enamel boxes will go for around $450, and Louis Vuitton travel bags start at $750. All in all, a small price to pay for a piece of Yves. [WWD]

They call me Mr. Nils. One-time Nina Ricci designer Lars Nilsson is launching a menswear line, which will debut in January at Pitti Immagine Uomo. [WWD]

H&M: big in Japan. Fast-fashion chains like Forever 21 and H&M are taking over Tokyo as luxury labels like Louis Vuitton and Giorgio Armani curtail plans for expansion. If we see an increase of Catholic schoolgirl styling at H&M, we’ll know why. [WSJ]

The Dead Live On in London

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You could be forgiven for thinking that The Dead is a reference to exhausted fashion journalists after a month of collections. Rather it’s the name of the show that Damien Hirst’s art shop-cum-gallery Other Criteria staged last night to kick off impending art mania in London, with the Frieze Art Fair around the corner. Now, instead of getting worked up about Matthew Williamson and Christopher Bailey, Londoners can froth over art luminaries like Sir Peter Blake, Paul Stolper, and Johnnie Shand Kydd, all of whom attended last night’s event. There was unmistakable electricity in the air, possibly because Hirst’s limited-edition prints of shiny, shimmering skulls started at about £3,500, far more affordable than the £10 million that his formaldehyde-dipped shark brought in last year at Sotheby’s. In other words, it’s a relatively manageable amount for anyone wanting to capture a bit of English art history. Some of the prints will also be available in New York at Gagosian Gallery, at 988 Madison Avenue, where Other Criteria shares a space. “Actually, this skull would make a brilliant CD cover,” observed Blake while intensely studying one print. Given that Blake designed the Beatles’ iconic Sgt. Pepper album, it’s a safe bet to assume he would know.

Established & Sons: Vanity Fair‘s New And Next

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As much as we love lists, we also love predictions. Yesterday, Vanity Fair gave us both, releasing its annual New Establishment ranking along with an appendage of on-the-verge comers, the Next Establishment. Along with power elite in finance and technology, etc, there’s a sizeable fashion industry factor. On the first are obvious choices like Bernard Arnault (#10) and nemesis François-Henri Pinault (#20), while Ralph Lauren sits between them at a very respectable #13. Having had very good years are J. Crew’s Mickey Drexler, moving up from last year’s #52 spot to #37; Marc Jacobs, who rose from #78 to #54; Diego Della Valle, up from #76 to #50; and John Galliano, strutting from #83 to #56. While Miuccia Prada dropped from #30 to #44, she’s still Mrs. Prada. And fresh off a runway triumph, Alber Elbaz makes his first entry at #73.

As for who might be joining the Lanvin designer at the adults’ table for 2010, there’s Burberry’s Christopher Bailey and Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier—both lauded for being forward-thinking caretakers of iconic brands. There’s the face that launched a thousand (well, million) ballet flats, Tory Burch, and red-carpet rulers Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig. However, the selection of younger Americans is somewhat curious. You could probably guess Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy and Alexander Wang, but it’s surprising that Zac Posen and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg beat out seemingly recession-proof king of contemporary Phillip Lim and Proenza Schouler, the very first of New York’s younger set to win the CFDA’s Designer of the Year award. Also missing are MObama go-tos like Jason Wu and Thakoon Panichgul. Another surprise is MTV host and ubiquitous girl-about-town Alexa Chung. Though going from “who?” to Who’s Who in the course of less than a year is no mean feat.

Photos: Bedder/Getty Images, Ray Tamarra/Getty Images, Marcio Madeira, Greg Kessler