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July 26 2014

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16 posts tagged "Christopher Raeburn"

London’s Lean Mean Fashion Machine

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London is jam-packed with emerging fashion talents. And now you can find all of them (or, at least, a lot of them) in one place. On February 17, Machine-A, a concept store founded by Stavros Karelis, will open permanently on 13 Brewer Street (it existed a few years ago, in an experimental capacity). Working with rainbow-haired stylist Anna Trevelyan, who serves as the store’s fashion director, Karelis will stock clothes by brand-new designers (Ashley Williams, Shaun Samson, Agi & Sam) and bright young stars (Louise Gray, Christopher Raeburn, Sibling), alongside wares by established labels like Raf Simons, Chalayan, and Mugler. Karelis hopes that Machine-A will serve as a platform to help promising youngsters establish an early retail presence. In addition to simply selling new designers’ collections, Machine-A will work with up-and-comers on collaborations and in-store installations, the first of which will feature Alex Mattsson. “My personal aim is to [offer] inspirational collections, innovative products, and comfortable high-quality clothes,” says Karelis, who also notes that Trevelyan’s input and keen eye for the next big thing have been invaluable. Case in point: the Spring ’13 ad campaign Trevelyan styled for the shop. Style.com has an exclusive look at the Meinke Klein-lensed images, which feature Machine-A’s Spring stock from Louise Gray (above) and Ashley Williams (below).

Machine-A, located at 13 Brewer Street in London, will open on February 17.

Fred Perry Celebrates Sixty

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Fred Perry’s white polo shirt became an instant classic following its 1952 Wimbledon debut. (In fact, despite the success of his namesake clothing line, the late Perry would probably prefer to be remembered for his many tennis titles—in 1997, he was named one of the ten greatest players of all time.) This year, the U.K.-based label, which built a strong following among those in the underground punk scene, is celebrating its sixtieth anniversary. And to commemorate the milestone, they’re launching a collaborative project and exhibition at London’s Dover Street Market on January 26. For the occasion, Fred Perry brought in a sixty-strong assortment of personalities—including designers (Raf Simons, Peter Jensen, Sister by Sibling, and Christopher Raeburn, among others), artists (Inez and Vinoodh, Terry Hall), musicians (Blur frontman Damon Albarn, Anton Wirjono), athletes (cyclist Sir Bradley Wiggins), publications (i-D magazine), retailers (Colette), and other inspiring creatives—to personalize reproductions of Perry’s original ’52 shirt (see the full shirt gallery here). The results are just as unique and diverse as the pool of participants, and will be on display at Dover Street for three weeks, before traveling to Beijing and Ginza, China, next month. The shirts will eventually be auctioned, and all proceeds will go to the Amy Winehouse Foundation, which benefits struggling young people.

The team at New York-based advertising agency Mother got their hands messy while reinterpreting the classic polo. Keeping the brand’s tennis heritage in mind, Mother staffers Christian Cervantes and Christopher Rogers brushed off their rackets and launched sixty tennis balls, dripping with Technicolor paint, at the shirt. Mother shared a behind-the-scenes video of the process with Style.com, which debuts below.

For more information on the Fred Perry 60th Anniversary project, visit.



Photo: Courtesy of Fred Perry

New Designers for NEWGEN

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London’s menswear shows may be just around the corner, but today, the spotlight is on the city’s womenswear designers, as the British Fashion Council announced the 14 up-and-comers who have won NEWGEN sponsorship for Fall 2013. Joining alumni like Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou, and Jonathan Saunders, the recipients include Simone Rocha—who broke out as a star last season with her plastic lace and neon collection—and, not surprisingly, J.W. Anderson, who, as was announced last month, will be designing a capsule collection for Versus in addition to his eponymous line. Knitwear designer Lucas Nascimento and the eco-chic Christopher Raeburn also made the list, along with accessories designer Sophia Webster. The former assistant to Nicholas Kirkwood, Webster put forth a range of bright, graphic heels for her debut collection last season and has emerged as one to watch in the quirky-cool world of London fashion. To see the full list of winners, visit the BFC’s Web site.

Photo: Alessandro Viero / GoRunway.com

Letter From London:
The Men’s Collections, Day 3

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London’s final day of shows featured outings from J.W. Anderson, Margaret Howell, Pringle of Scotland, and Christopher Raeburn. It also offered a moment to check out the installations from Fashion East, Lulu Kennedy’s young-gun incubator of emerging talent. Tim Blanks took a tour.


Ben Kirchhoff went back to his London roots with Meadham Kirchhoff’s first collection for men (pictured), not only because he started out with menswear in his pre-Meadham days at Saint Martins but also because, when he first arrived in London, he lived in a squat in the general neighborhood of the imposing Georgian mansion where the duo showed their new work. So that glorious vista of green trees and blue sky (yes, the sun shone for a moment) had once been his. And so had the pell-mell, headily fragranced tumble of clothes, boys, flowers, and skip-surfed remnants with which MK filled the eighteenth-century salons. They’re now a fully fledged cult. The cultists were scarcely disappointed, but anyone else who’s been wondering what might be in the pipeline after the suited, booted sartorial conservatism that many of the fashion boys have been working over the past three days might also catch a glimpse of a possible future in MK’s extravagant wrack of the West.

They were sharing the house with the latest crop of designers that Lulu Kennedy was introducing to the world under the Fashion East banner. Downstairs, Duffy showed his silver jewelry with its occult undertones in a room that could have been built for that purpose alone. And Craig Green, fresh out of Saint Martins, showed eerie, homespun clothes—in calico, cheesecloth, cotton knit, and suede screen-printed to a crunchy finish—which suggested ancient rituals in pagan communities cut off from the world. The Wicker Man was an inspiration. No surprises there.

Ritual also infused Tom Lipop’s tailoring with a colorful Mexican twist, or at least the Day of the Dead did, because his models were made up as leering skulls. The boys were packed away on shelves and in drawers, a memorable way to guarantee maximal impact on a minimal budget. Kit Neale managed the same effect by filling his space with a huge fairground snake, which complemented his extravagant prints (particularly liked the lobster ensemble). Idiosyncrasy, playfulness, and obsession rule in the universe of Fashion East. Marten van der Horst’s heavy-metal mutant T-shirts had all that.

Photo: Courtesy of Meadham Kirchoff

Versace Announces Its Couture Runway Show, Diego Della Valle’s Speedy New Train, And More…

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Donatella Versace has announced July 1 as the date for the Atelier Versace runway show after making a quiet return to the Paris Couture calendar last season with a small presentation. This time around, the label will have two shows at the Ritz Paris—the location of Gianni Versace’s last runway show in 1997. [WWD]

An Abercrombie & Fitch on Savile Row? Not if the staffers at The Chap magazine can help it. The Chap employees dressed up in three-piece suits and staged a demonstration against Abercombie to express their discontent with the retailer for opening on the famed bespoke tailoring street. [Styleite]

Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle unveiled his new high-speed train service, the NTV Italo, this past weekend in Italy. The train, developed with Ferrari president Luca di Montezemolo, will run through nine cities and includes all the works, such as seats made of Poltrona Frau hides, gourmet Eataly delicacies, and a cinema coach. [WWD]

Victoria Beckham is lending her support to young designer Christopher Raeburn. Though she is known to step out in her own designs, Beckham recently bought one of Raeburn’s waterproof jackets and “tweeted a picture of herself in Beijing standing next to one of Raeburn’s inflatable squirrel installations,” according to British Vogue. [Vogue U.K.]

Photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com