13 posts tagged "Christopher Raeburn"
London’s final day of shows featured outings from J.W. Anderson, Margaret Howell, Pringle of Scotland, and Christopher Raeburn. It also offered a moment to check out the installations from Fashion East, Lulu Kennedy’s young-gun incubator of emerging talent. Tim Blanks took a tour.
Ben Kirchhoff went back to his London roots with Meadham Kirchhoff’s first collection for men (pictured), not only because he started out with menswear in his pre-Meadham days at Saint Martins but also because, when he first arrived in London, he lived in a squat in the general neighborhood of the imposing Georgian mansion where the duo showed their new work. So that glorious vista of green trees and blue sky (yes, the sun shone for a moment) had once been his. And so had the pell-mell, headily fragranced tumble of clothes, boys, flowers, and skip-surfed remnants with which MK filled the eighteenth-century salons. They’re now a fully fledged cult. The cultists were scarcely disappointed, but anyone else who’s been wondering what might be in the pipeline after the suited, booted sartorial conservatism that many of the fashion boys have been working over the past three days might also catch a glimpse of a possible future in MK’s extravagant wrack of the West.
They were sharing the house with the latest crop of designers that Lulu Kennedy was introducing to the world under the Fashion East banner. Downstairs, Duffy showed his silver jewelry with its occult undertones in a room that could have been built for that purpose alone. And Craig Green, fresh out of Saint Martins, showed eerie, homespun clothes—in calico, cheesecloth, cotton knit, and suede screen-printed to a crunchy finish—which suggested ancient rituals in pagan communities cut off from the world. The Wicker Man was an inspiration. No surprises there.
Ritual also infused Tom Lipop’s tailoring with a colorful Mexican twist, or at least the Day of the Dead did, because his models were made up as leering skulls. The boys were packed away on shelves and in drawers, a memorable way to guarantee maximal impact on a minimal budget. Kit Neale managed the same effect by filling his space with a huge fairground snake, which complemented his extravagant prints (particularly liked the lobster ensemble). Idiosyncrasy, playfulness, and obsession rule in the universe of Fashion East. Marten van der Horst’s heavy-metal mutant T-shirts had all that.
Donatella Versace has announced July 1 as the date for the Atelier Versace runway show after making a quiet return to the Paris Couture calendar last season with a small presentation. This time around, the label will have two shows at the Ritz Paris—the location of Gianni Versace’s last runway show in 1997. [WWD]
An Abercrombie & Fitch on Savile Row? Not if the staffers at The Chap magazine can help it. The Chap employees dressed up in three-piece suits and staged a demonstration against Abercombie to express their discontent with the retailer for opening on the famed bespoke tailoring street. [Styleite]
Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle unveiled his new high-speed train service, the NTV Italo, this past weekend in Italy. The train, developed with Ferrari president Luca di Montezemolo, will run through nine cities and includes all the works, such as seats made of Poltrona Frau hides, gourmet Eataly delicacies, and a cinema coach. [WWD]
Victoria Beckham is lending her support to young designer Christopher Raeburn. Though she is known to step out in her own designs, Beckham recently bought one of Raeburn’s waterproof jackets and “tweeted a picture of herself in Beijing standing next to one of Raeburn’s inflatable squirrel installations,” according to British Vogue. [Vogue U.K.]
Fifteen emerging designers, including Thomas Tait, J.W. Anderson, and Christopher Raeburn, were announced by the British Fashion Council today as winners of its NEWGEN sponsorship. The designers, who follow in the footsteps of alumni like Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders, and Christopher Kane, will receive support from the Topshop-sponsored program to show at London fashion week in February 2012. They will also be a part of NEWGEN’s ten-year anniversary celebrations set for February. To see the full list of winners, visit the BFC’s Web site.
Tonight in London, the British Fashion Council hosted its annual British Fashion Awards, with Kate Moss, Samantha Cameron, Colin Firth, and Marc Jacobs all on hand. Check back tomorrow for our complete coverage of the party scene. In the meantime, this year’s winners are below. A new category, the New Establishment, was created this year to recognize, in the words of the BFC, “a particular movement in British fashion that is taking the industry by storm”; Christopher Kane received the inaugural award. And for the second year running, the British Style Award, voted on by the public, went to Alexa Chung.
Designer of the Year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen
Menswear Designer of the Year: Kim Jones
Accessory Designer of the Year: Charlotte Dellal for Charlotte Olympia
Designer Brand of the Year: Victoria Beckham
Model of the Year: Stella Tennant
Emerging Talent—Womenswear: Mary Katrantzou
Emerging Talent—Menswear: Christopher Raeburn
Emerging Talent—Accessories: Tabitha Simmons
New Establishment Award: Christopher Kane
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Sam Gainsbury, Gainsbury and Whiting
Red Carpet Award: Stella McCartney
Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Award: Sir Paul Smith
British Style Award: Alexa Chung
New York fashion week is barely over, but the fashion set has flown on to the next: London fashion week begins today. In a new series, Style.com drops in on a few of London’s hottest young talents to find out what’s in store. First up, Christopher Raeburn, who presents his men’s and women’s collections tomorrow.
“The sourcing process for us is not a case of going to Premiere Vision in Paris, by any means!” says Christopher Raeburn over a mug of tea in his studio, a stone throw away from the site of the new Olympic Stadium in East London. He’s just finished inflating a giant, six-foot bunny, made—just like the parkas that established him as a designer to watch—from recycled parachute fabric. The bunny, alongside other animals, will feature in his presentation tomorrow at the disused Aldwych tube station—a presentation that will incorporate film as well as sound installations.
So while his fellow designers hit the fabric shows, like Premiere Vision, in search of their materials, Raeburn’s process is a little more complicated. “It’s a case of going to different military warehouses, looking on the Internet, delving into my own research bank,” he explains of finding the deadstock materials, often military-issued, out of which he creates his men’s and women’s lines. For Fall, 40-year-old Danish wool and beautifully mottled military transit blankets are among the salvage. Fabric sitting in moldering warehouses doesn’t excite some, but Raeburn waxes poetic. The blankets, he says, “literally have every color you can imagine within them, and they’re not even in any way designed. It’s really exciting taking something that was never meant to be a garment and giving it a completely new life.”
The blankets are reborn as surprisingly soft bomber jackets. Unused ends of parachute rolls that never passed the flying test (“pre-consumer waste that might’ve gone into landfills,” Raeburn says) become printed parkas. (In days past, original parachutes were deconstructed.) A terrific duffel coat is made of Swedish military wool from the fifties; its toggles are antique horn from vintage garments. And new for the season, there will be outerwear made from British fabrics like a scarlet wool from Hainsworth in the north of England—which also happens to make the material for the Queen’s Guards uniforms at Buckingham Palace. Continue Reading “LFW Preview: Christopher Raeburn” »