14 posts tagged "Christopher Raeburn"
New York fashion week is barely over, but the fashion set has flown on to the next: London fashion week begins today. In a new series, Style.com drops in on a few of London’s hottest young talents to find out what’s in store. First up, Christopher Raeburn, who presents his men’s and women’s collections tomorrow.
“The sourcing process for us is not a case of going to Premiere Vision in Paris, by any means!” says Christopher Raeburn over a mug of tea in his studio, a stone throw away from the site of the new Olympic Stadium in East London. He’s just finished inflating a giant, six-foot bunny, made—just like the parkas that established him as a designer to watch—from recycled parachute fabric. The bunny, alongside other animals, will feature in his presentation tomorrow at the disused Aldwych tube station—a presentation that will incorporate film as well as sound installations.
So while his fellow designers hit the fabric shows, like Premiere Vision, in search of their materials, Raeburn’s process is a little more complicated. “It’s a case of going to different military warehouses, looking on the Internet, delving into my own research bank,” he explains of finding the deadstock materials, often military-issued, out of which he creates his men’s and women’s lines. For Fall, 40-year-old Danish wool and beautifully mottled military transit blankets are among the salvage. Fabric sitting in moldering warehouses doesn’t excite some, but Raeburn waxes poetic. The blankets, he says, “literally have every color you can imagine within them, and they’re not even in any way designed. It’s really exciting taking something that was never meant to be a garment and giving it a completely new life.”
The blankets are reborn as surprisingly soft bomber jackets. Unused ends of parachute rolls that never passed the flying test (“pre-consumer waste that might’ve gone into landfills,” Raeburn says) become printed parkas. (In days past, original parachutes were deconstructed.) A terrific duffel coat is made of Swedish military wool from the fifties; its toggles are antique horn from vintage garments. And new for the season, there will be outerwear made from British fabrics like a scarlet wool from Hainsworth in the north of England—which also happens to make the material for the Queen’s Guards uniforms at Buckingham Palace. Continue Reading “LFW Preview: Christopher Raeburn” »
Talk about multitasking: Juergen Teller’s new campaign for Marc Jacobs—starring Masha Kirsanova and Caroline Brasch Nielsen—was shot backstage at Jacobs’ Spring ’11 show (left). [Fashionologie]
The womenswear winners of London’s NewGen sponsorships were announced earlier this week, and now the prize is spotlighting the men: J.W. Anderson, Christopher Shannon, and James Long will show their menswear on the runway during LFW’s Man Day, while Lou Dalton, Katie Eary, Omar Kashoura, and knit wits Sibling will have their presentations supported. (Men’s designer Christopher Raeburn, who was listed among the winners yesterday, will also have his installation underwritten.) [Vogue U.K.]
It’s time (again) for Diane von Furstenberg to clear some space on her mantel: The indefatigable designer will receive amfAR’s Award of Courage—alongside President Bill Clinton and Elizabeth Taylor—at the AIDS research nonprofit’s silver anniversary gala next year. [WWD]
Leandra Medine, better known as the voice of Man Repeller, is the high priestess of high-waisted pants—and shoulder pads, schlumpy layers, and all of the other “girls get it, guys don’t” fashion choices out there. Men may be repelled, but the Times wasn’t; Medine got the full profile treatment today. [NYT]
And here’s more from Ford: The latest glimpses of TF’s womenswear come courtesy of W, which shot a few looks, styled by Alex White and shot by Inez and Vinoodh, on Lara Stone. [W]
London is famously supportive of its young designers, and today, the British Fashion Council announced the 18 who will be the beneficiaries of the NewGen sponsorship at London fashion week in February.
Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Mary Katrantzou, David Koma, and Michael van der Ham will all be presenting shows on the catwalk, supported by NewGen. Christopher Raeburn, Craig Lawrence, J. JS Lee, and milliner Nasir Mazhar will hold presentations; jewelers Dominic Jones and Jordan Askill will stage installations; and menswear designer J.W. Anderson will screen a film. There’ll also be a larger exhibition featuring the work of all of the designers above, plus Dorchester Prize finalists Chau Har Lee and Thomas Tait, Fannie Schiavoni, Felicity Brown, Yang Du, and Finnish designer Heikki Salonen.
Check out the links above to see runway shows, reviews, blogs, and all of Style.com’s past coverage on the winning designers.
Pictured above, left to right: Spring 2011 looks from Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou, and Michael Van Der Ham.
We confess: It’s hard to click through our complete London coverage without getting a little covetous of the goods hitting the English runways. But good news has arrived for stateside shoppers looking to get their hands on some U.K. goods: The British Fashion Council and the e-retailer thecorner.com have teamed up to offer some of the best of British fashion on sale online. Five emerging London designers—all from the BFC’s LONDON show ROOMS initiative—are offering Fall pieces on a dedicated mini-site on The Corner, just in time for LFW. Get your Faster by Mark Fast, Christopher Raeburn, Todd Lynn, Michael Lewis London, and Mary Katrantzou (including this eye-popping print dress, left), as well as exclusive video content from the designers themselves. Shipping, it goes without saying, is worldwide. If you can’t get to London, at least you can get London to you.