10 posts tagged "Christopher Shannon"
Today, the British Fashion Council announced the shortlist for the annual BFC/GQ Menswear Designer Fund: Christopher Raeburn, Christopher Shannon, E. Tautz, Lou Dalton, and Richard Nicoll (left). The Fund will provide one of the designers with a bespoke mentoring support program over one year, a £150,000 grant to take their business to the next level, and £50,000 in kind services. The BFC looks for labels that have been trading for at least three years and retail in the U.K. as well as internationally. The winner of the Fund will be announced before the next London Collections: Men shows, which are scheduled for June 15 through 17.
“The shortlisted designers are testament to the extraordinary array of talent in the menswear industry in Britain right now,” said Dylan Jones, editor in chief of British GQ and chair of LC:M. “The current generation of British menswear designers might be the best ever, as they not only have creativity in abundance, but also a keen business sense.”
This morning, the British Fashion Council announced the nominees for the 2013 British Fashion Awards, to be held in London on December 2. The race for this year’s emerging talent awards will be especially exciting—while 2012 saw the comparatively long-established Jonathan Saunders and J.W. Anderson take the honors in the up-and-coming men’s and womenswear categories, respectively, 2013′s nominees include Marques’Almeida, Thomas Tait, Simone Rocha, Craig Green (left), Christopher Shannon, and Agi & Sam—the veritable new-new in London’s fashion pool. Green, in particular, has seen his star skyrocket this year, after peddling his unconventional take on menswear since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2012.
New in 2013: an International prize, for which Prada, Marc Jacobs, and Dior (Raf Simons) are named, and a Best Campaign award, the contenders for which have not yet been revealed. It’s sure to be a close race between Cara Delevingne, Edie Campbell, and Sam Rollinson for Model of the Year. Same goes for the womenswear designer of the year honor, for which Christopher Kane, Céline’s Phoebe Philo, and Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton have been named. For a full rundown of the 2013 nominees, visit the BFC’s Web site.
Sheers were regulars on the trend circuit long before Beyoncé appeared at the 2012 Met Gala wearing a diaphanous Givenchy gown. The look’s staying power comes from its versatility. “Unlike other fabrics,” explained fashion consultant Yasmin Sewell, “a single layer allows a designer to explore possibilities in depth and illusion.”
A quiet translucence has taken effect on the womenswear front. Sass & Bide (above, center) showed a Resort ’14 collection with long, sheer panels over simple skirts. Vera Wang traded minimalism for romance by piling on the sheer layers. In one instance, a delicate dot-pattern shift appeared underneath another shift embroidered with matte paillettes. Known for his cool and straightforward aesthetic, Phillip Lim (above, right) produced sheer shorts in white and blue for his latest play-while-you-work collection.
When it came to sheers in menswear, London-based designers were among the first to experiment. The various incarnations were far more structured, referencing traditional tailoring. Meadham Kirchhoff (above, left) offered a lineup of translucent jackets crafted from yellow-tinged and cloudy green rubber. Benjamin Kirchhoff denied any sort of deeper meaning in its use, but he did confess to being moved by the fabric’s texture. Christopher Shannon (above, center) went so far as to wet sheer nylon in an effort to capture an out-all-night-clubbing vibe. “I’d never want it to look too soft, so we used some really fine nylons as layers this season,” Shannon told Style.com. “It’s something that felt modern and sporty but had fluidity.”
London’s fashion boom has been a particular boon for menswear, and as of last June, the city inaugurated its own menswear weekend to recognize it. I was glad to be in the early guard of editors who made the trip, alongside Style.com’s Tim Blanks, who serves on the Menswear Committee of the event, and came away impressed with the energy and individualism of the city’s designers. Even the youngest—the trio of Agi & Sam, Shaun Samson, and Astrid Andersen, who showed collectively as part of the MAN show—had more courage of their convictions than many far more seasoned labels in New York or elsewhere. And while everyone agreed that the start was an auspicious one, the unofficial consensus among the attendees I spoke to was that the week could use a few tentpoles from the big-time ranks to solidify its position and round out its offerings. The provisional schedule, announced today by the BFC, suggests it is getting just that. London is still extremely supportive of its emerging set—eBay and the mayor of London are teaming up for a Fashion Forward sponsorship, which will be extended as in seasons past to Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz, and J.W. Anderson, and for the first time, to the promising Lou Dalton—but several more established houses are planning to show as well. Alexander McQueen (a look from the Spring ’13 collection is at left) and Tom Ford, both of whom previously presented by appointment in Milan, will show in London; Savile Row’s own Hardy Amies, which showed in Paris, joins as well. More to follow? To be seen. In the meantime, to catch up on London’s Spring 2013 show coverage on Style.com, click here.
The fight against fakes continues. Hermès International has announced that the French national police caught an international crime ring that was working around the clock to produce counterfeit versions of the brand’s iconic bags. The twist here is that some of the luxury house’s employees were in on the scheme, two of which have been dismissed. [WWD]
After a seven-year hiatus, Jil Sander has returned to Milan to take the helm of her namesake brand. The Hamburg native, who will show her menswear collection on Saturday, spoke to Suzy Menkes about how she plans to find her new place in fashion. “I’m working less on decoration, more on form—pattern making and materials, with a lot of dresses in the collection—in a good, modern way,” she said. [NYT]
Robert Pattinson may be more of a fashionista than we thought. In the latest edition of GQ U.K., the actor divulged that he has Gucci creative director Frida Giannini’s phone number on speed dial. “The amount of times I’ve been stuck in some random city and have called her up and had things brought in at absolutely the last minute—it’s crazy,” he says. [Huff Po]
Christian Louboutin has a men’s-only store hitting the West Village this summer, along with menswear boutiques in Los Angeles, Miami, and London on the horizon. Not bad, considering the designer says he never had any intention of creating his red-soled shoes for men. [WWD]
Another day, another designer collaboration. Here’s a new one that’s actually worth knowing about: Brit designer Christopher Shannon has teamed up with the Cambridge Satchel Company on a range of satchel backpacks that hit the runway in London this past weekend. A departure from the handbag brand’s simple aesthetic, Shannon’s pieces feature fringing, matte, and patent leather. [Fashion Monitor]