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August 29 2014

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15 posts tagged "Clare Waight Keller"

Fall’s Freaks of Leopard

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Gucci“I am a freak of leopard,” Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele declared in the premiere episode of her hilariously addictive new Web series, J’Adore. Judging by the Fall ’14 collections, CCD isn’t the only one feeling for the fierce print these days. At Gucci, Frida Giannini put a mod sixties spin on the jungle motif, while Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller went craftsy with hers. We also saw spots at Saint Laurent and Tom Ford. But Riccardo Tisci was the man behind our favorite leopard moment of the season. His spotted looks for Givenchy were particularly carnal. In fact, we featured his plush fur coat on a cover of the new issue of Style.com/Print.

Here, a slideshow of Fall’s best leopard spots.

Tilda Swinton: Fashion’s Muse for Eternity

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Tilda Swinton

Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.

Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.

Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”

Tilda Swinton

“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”

At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”

Photos: Vincent Lappartient

Designer Diary: Clare Waight Keller’s Postcard From L.A.

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Last week, Chloé designer Clare Waight Keller and her family flew from Paris to Los Angeles—partially for work, but also for pleasure. Here, she shares her snapshots of surfers, palm tree forests, and vintage vans exclusively with Style.com.

Coachella Valley Preserve

Surrounded by a forest of palms in the Coachella Valley Preserve, where the palm trees reach seven stories high. They are the most incredible sight and grow around an oasis, which is so peaceful and otherworldly you can’t believe it is only two hours from L.A.

Temperature in California

The amazing temperature in California. I love it!

Hiking

On my day off before heading to L.A., I hiked on the top of the San Jacinto Mountains in Palm Desert. It’s one of the highest peaks in California at 8,250 feet, with a vertical climb to 10,500 feet. It is absolutely stunning. There’s incredibly fresh air and the smell of pine trees and amazing views. You go from desert cactus at the bottom of the mountain to snow at the top!

Surfers at Santa Monica Beach

Surfers early on Sunday morning. I always head down to Santa Monica Beach to see them out on the waves. Continue Reading “Designer Diary: Clare Waight Keller’s Postcard From L.A.” »

Chloé’s Got That London Attitude

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Pixie Geldof and Clare Waight KellerConsidering the British imprint on the French house, it makes perfect sense that Chloé launched its sixty-year retrospective book, Chloé Attitudes, in London. “Chloé’s had this great succession of cool, young British designers,” Sarah Mower said at last night’s party at the new Serpentine Sackler Gallery. “They are not pretentious and they don’t talk about great lofty inspirations and references. They just talk about what we want, what girls want to wear. That’s really Chloé.”

Succinct, given Mower was tasked with writing the text for the tome. The fete drew such guests as Eliza Doolittle, Damien Hirst, Pixie Geldof (armed with her own Chloé bag), and the label’s creative director, Clare Waight Keller.

“Chloé has always stood for beautiful femininity,” said Waight Keller, who often turns to the house’s archives for inspiration. “But it’s been interesting to realize there has been surrealism, graphicness…there are other facets to the Chloé girl that aren’t always so evident.”

Published by Rizzoli, with art direction by industry legend Marc Ascoli, Chloé Attitudes delves deep into the house’s history. As Mower described it, “It’s a detective story, because there was no real archive for years.” Dating from its founding in 1952, the book draws on Chloé’s rich collaborations with groundbreaking photographers like Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, and Patrick Demarchelier.

Ascoli and Mower spoke of finding the common denominator through designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, and Phoebe Philo. Waight Keller said it’s simply “an attitude,” but Mower went further: “It’s really an optimistic spirit. It has always been about capturing the spirit of the times, how girls have changed with the times, and what they want at the moment. There’s a feminist thread throughout.” Judging by the evening’s crowd, dressed in Chloé’s greatest hits, the house is still hitting the nail on the head. Of the girls, by the girls, and for the girls—that’s fashion democracy in action.

Photo: Getty Images

Chloé Does Deco

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Chloe Pre-Fall Jewelry Chloé devotees should have no trouble filling bare spaces in their jewelry boxes, thanks to the house’s Pre-Fall accessories offering. Available starting today exclusively at The Editorialist, the pieces echo Chloé’s sculptural ready-to-wear looks. Clare Waight Keller described the baubles to us as “a very refined and sensual touch.” And after peeping at wares like the chicly architectural Bettina brass cuff (above, top right) and the stark Deco-inspired Abby ring (above, bottom right), we couldn’t agree more.

Photos: Courtesy of The Editorialist