2 posts tagged "Closed"
Since signing on as Closed’s creative director last year, Kostas Murkudis has taken the Italian-born (but now German-based) label in a refreshing new direction. While the line is famed for its raw selvedge denim, Murkudis has been focusing on an accompanying range of ready-to-wear, which this season was inspired by Brazil and “Urban Tropicalism.” What does that mean, exactly? For starters, the Spring ’14 lineup included plenty of street-ready separates in punchy, tropical hues. White, yellow, or cerulean waffle knits were overlaid with sheer organza for an on-trend, sporty look, a tracksuit was covered in an electric-blue-and-violet photo print, and simple skirts and silky shorts looked as though they were plucked off a luxe soccer field. Leather tops and frocks were hole-punched to create a mesh effect—this same technique was used on a particularly slick bomber. Here, the perforated leather was lined with fabric in cobalt and emerald hues. Meanwhile, neoprene coats in white or turquoise had a tech appeal, and in one instance, a two-toned jacket-and-trousers ensemble—cut from the brand’s signature denim—was made to look like a jogging suit.
Murkudis’ influences manifested themselves most interestingly in a series of embroidered silk kimono-sport-jacket hybrids. Offered in long and short styles, the toppers—some of which featured stripes down the sleeves—were reportedly inspired by Brazil’s thriving Japanese communities. “The collection is a mélange of sportswear, utility, and fashion,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It goes back to the initial concept of Closed…[and] the fact that I can use the codes of uniforms and…cultural backgrounds is very inspiring,” he added.
A spot-on Spring ’14 isn’t all the label is celebrating this season. Tomorrow, Closed will open its first Paris store, which is set at 18 rue du Poitou, in the third arrondissement. Murkudis explained that selling “and proudly showing our products—almost all of which are handmade—in the fashion capital is the next logical step in order to develop in the European market.” The boutique—a sneak peek at which debuts exclusively above—is clean, classic, and minimal, just like Closed’s aesthetic. The Closed crew will celebrate the milestone tomorrow via a fete with Olivier Zahm and Purple magazine. In fact, the brand has even teamed with Zahm on a limited-edition pair of jeans, which are, of course, dyed purple.
Type “Kostas Murkudis” into Style.com’s search engine, and just two results pop up. The Berlin-based designer—who worked for many years alongside Helmut Lang, and who has run his own eponymous label since1994—signed on as creative director of the German sportswear brand Closed last year. He won’t be operating under the radar much longer. On Friday, Murkudis teamed with his longtime friend, the artist Carsten Nicolai, to present his first capsule collection for Closed, dubbed Skywalk, at Gallery Weekend Berlin. Nicolai provided the video, a hypnotic twelve-minute clip culled from twelve years of photographs he took from the window seats of airplanes, and Murkudis contributed the clothes, a utilitarian range of pieces, for both women and men, inspired by a vintage aviator jumpsuit. There are jersey tees and button-front shirts covered with zips and, of course, a flight suit, but the stars are the trench, made from a denim-like twill fused with superfine mousseline (above), and a leather bomber that reverses to the same twill.
The jackets and coats in his main collection for Closed are likewise worth getting excited about. The thirty-five-year-old brand, which at different times was headed up by François Girbaud and Martin Margiela, has long been denim-focused. “I want to go back to the roots, to make clear what Closed was,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It was the first brand to do designer denim; there was just Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler. The mix of denim, utilitarian, and sporty elements is quite key to Closed’s DNA.” Look for Murkudis’ debut collection for Closed when Fall collections begin arriving at Fred Segal and American Rag in Los Angeles, and for Skywalk at Project No. 8 in New York. And don’t miss our Gallery Weekend Berlin photo report.