28 posts tagged "Coco Chanel"
Just try to find a picture of Coco Chanel without her signature strands of pearls—it’s not an easy task. The woman certainly loved her little black jackets and dresses, but she also had a well-known penchant for jewelry. In honor of what would be the designer’s 129th birthday (August 19), 1stdibs.com is launching an online birthday capsule collection sale of Chanel jewelry and accessories. Starting tomorrow at 3 p.m., over 60 necklaces, sautoirs, brooches, bracelets, and earrings dating from the sixties through 2008, curated by Douglas Rosin Decorative Arts & Antiques, will be for sale on the site. Especially of note in the collection (ranging in price from $500 to $5,000) are the designs adorned with colored stones and faux pearls, made by the Paris-based specialists at Gripoix (which handmade a great deal of Chanel’s jewelry). Here, a first look at one of the Gripoix pieces in the sale.
Today in Milan, the fashion set got a glimpse of some of the Schiaparelli and Prada pieces that will be on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations exhibition, opening May 10. How does one make an impossible conversation between two great designers from different eras possible? Curators Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton dug through Prada’s archive, as well as the Costume Institute’s collection and private collections, and culled 90 designs and 30 accessories by the two Italian female designers to demonstrate the arresting affinities between their work (Elsa Schiaparelli from the late twenties to early fifties, Miuccia Prada from the late eighties to the present). Take note, these are the first female designers to be the centerpiece of the annual exhibition since Coco Chanel in 2005.
The “conversation” plays out in seven themes, starting with “Waist/Waist Down” (which includes a 1937 black and white Schiaparelli number worn by Madonna’s latest film subject, Wallis Simpson, sitting next to a very similar recent look from Prada). It continues with “Ugly Chic,” “Naif Chic,” “The Classical Body,” “The Exotic Body,” and finally, “The Surreal Body.” The galleries featuring iconic ensembles by the designers are paired with videos, directed by Baz Luhrmann, with made-up conversations between the two women (the idea for these “impossible conversations” was inspired by a Vanity Fair series of unimaginable exchanges in the thirties). Here, a few images from the exhibition.
Coco Chanel launched her house’s fine jewelry collection in 1932, holding an exposition de bijoux de diamants for two weeks in November on the Faubourg Saint-Honoré. (The diamond Franges necklace above was in the original collection.) “Reason prompted me, initially, to create faux jewelry because I find it free of arrogance in an era of facile luxury,” Chanel explained. “This consideration vanishes in a period of financial crisis, when there arises an instinctive desire for authenticity in all things, which brings amusing junk back to its rightful place.”
You don’t have to look far for amusing junk—or a financial crisis—in our own day and age. As part of Paris’ haute couture week, the fine jewelry houses, including Chanel, Dior, and Van Cleef & Arpels, offered some very authentic options to discerning buyers, in new collections referencing past glories. Style.com’s Tina Isaac reports.
Coco Chanel loved a good talisman, and she decked her private apartment with an array of lucky frogs, sheaves of wheat, and special-order double-Cs and 5s for her chandelier overhead. But she was especially proud of being a Leo. And so for the first time, a lion jewel is set to appear chez Chanel as part of 1932, an 80-piece collection marking 80 years since the house entered the world of high jewelry.
In the meantime, the house previewed a selection of jewels based on iconic Chanel symbols, including a new rendition of the Comète necklace in titanium, white gold, and 85 carats of diamonds, as well as shooting star rings, bracelets, and necklaces. Among the standouts: the stunning Céleste brooch, a rendering of the cosmos anchored by a 79-carat baroque gray pearl.
Dior Joaillerie will launch an iconic new jewelry line during the Paris collections to accompany a lush compendium published by Rizzoli, so consider this display an aperitif: Incroyables et Merveilleuse earrings rendered as pendants, a Rose Dior Bagatelle ring in rubies and diamonds, and rose quartz renditions of the Pré Catelan ring and necklace.
A favorite of Wallis and Jackie, Van Cleef & Arpels is a doyenne of the Place Vendôme—and it’s got a major retrospective in the works at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs set for September. By way of a prelude, the house displayed a handful of birds of various sizes and colors, dating from the 1920′s to the 1960′s, the forebears of the brightly plumed Birds of Paradise, 2012 vintage. More abstract now than in the past, the new jewelry collection is informed by sweeping arabesques on necklaces and a number of colorful between-the-finger rings, such as a Bird of Paradise circling a ruby. “Mismatched” earrings with different colored stones in each ear, and a cascading necklace of turquoise beads culminating in a gem-encrusted parrot swinging on his perch, rounded out the new collection.
CLICK HERE FOR A SLIDESHOW of some of the key looks from the current haute joaillerie collections, as well as key archival pieces that inspired the new lines.
“For vintage, Chanel is the most glamorous and sought-after accessories and jewelry brand in the market today,” Rent the Runway consulting fashion director Lucy Sykes tells Style.com. “To work with vintage Chanel products on any level is totally inspiring.”
Starting tomorrow, Rent the Runway, a sort of Netflix for fashion that allows users to borrow pieces that retail in the high four and five figures for a rental fee, is adding vintage to its stable of options. Thanks to a partnership with Soho vintage shop What Goes Around Comes Around, Rent the Runway is beginning the retail initiative with Chanel, whose vintage pieces are among the most coveted there are. For four or eight days, a $6,160 Coco bag can be yours—for $350.
To show off their new goods, Rent the Runway enlisted the help of Sykes and photographer Sophie Elgort (daughter of the famed lensman Arthur Elgort) to shoot the goods at WGACA. “My inspiration was a little sixties and very dressed up,” Sykes says of the look. “I wanted to have fun with it and throw in some fabulous hot pink Prabal [Gurung] dresses and a totally chic Moschino black dress with a cute peplum.” Style.com has the exclusive behind-the-scenes photos from their shoot (below). Expect to see more vintage labels rolling out on Rent the Runway soon.