87 posts tagged "Colette"
“Real life is very different than being a student,” offered Sara McAlpine, an undergraduate at London’s Central Saint Martins and the editor of the college’s magazine, 1 Granary. “You hit roadblocks—you have to worry about financing and about people with whom you want to collaborate with saying no,” she continued. The second issue of 1 Granary, a publication which was founded by its current editor in chief, Olya Kuryshchuk, in 2013, is about celebrating the pure creativity that comes with studying at CSM. Thus, the sophomore effort is aptly titled “Age of Innocence.” “It might seem a bit kitsch, but we felt it described the time that we’re in,” explained McAlpine. “This is our time to be creative. And as naive as we are, we decided to ask anyone who’s anyone if they want to work with us. If you don’t ask, you don’t get.”
Smart cookies, those CSM kids, and their no-holds-barred attitude resulted in an issue filled with 240 pages of content (not ads, mind you) that most fully financed titles would struggle to get. Alongside shoots and stories that champion CSM student work, there are interviews with Christopher Kane and Ai Weiwei, as well as striking photographs by Rachel Chandler Guinness and SHOWstudio’s Nick Knight. But these heavy hitters didn’t agree to work with the 1 Granary crew out of charity. “It’s not the Bucket Challenge or anything like that,” McAlpine laughed. “The magazine is a space where established names can let loose. [These people] remember that time when they had to jump hurdles and make themselves known straight out of university. And we’re not tied to advertisers—we’re not dependent on them—so I think they actually found that refreshing.”
A handful of the insiders in Issue 2 reminisce about their time of “innocence” at Saint Martins, a sentiment that’s beautifully illustrated by the above Johnnie Shand Kydd-lensed photo of a young Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo (both CSM alums). But the issue also addresses the future—for instance, budding menswear star and CSM grad Craig Green gives an interview, and the cover features student Louisa Ballou surrounded by her peers. Ballou also appears inside the issue wearing Christopher Kane (below). The abovementioned images debut exclusively here.
The past few years have marked a time of transition for Central Saint Martins: In 2011, the college moved from its storied, dilapidated fashion building on Charing Cross Road to a shiny new campus at King’s Cross, and earlier this year, the Fashion MA program, which launched the careers of designers like Alexander McQueen and Christopher Kane, mourned the passing of its beloved course director, professor Louise Wilson. (It’s worth noting that she was a staunch supporter of 1 Granary). Mix in the fact that university fees in the U.K. are higher than they’ve ever been, and one has to wonder: Can CSM continue to be the creative petri dish that birthed the likes of Katie Grand, Hussein Chalayan, and John Galliano? “I think one of the great interviews in our magazine is with [GQ's] Dylan Jones,” said McAlpine, when asked this particular question. “He [recalled] how he walked through the art studios of the new building, and he said it felt exactly the same [as when he was a student in the '80s]. He said the feeling was still there. I think it’s quite poignant for someone like him to walk through 20 years later and say that.”
1 Granary‘s second issue is set to hit SHOWstudio’s London shop on August 28, and will later hit British and international retailers including Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Colette, Bookmarc, and more. The magazine will also be available at 1granary.com for £6.90. So what does McAlpine hope readers take away from the 15,000 copies that will be distributed worldwide? “I want [readers] to realize that London is an incredibly exciting place. That CSM is an incredibly exciting place. I want them to know that there are young people banding together, doing something great for the sake of being creative. I want them to know that creativity isn’t dead, basically. It’s not been killed by commercialism.” Considering what these students have achieved—and how hard they’ve worked to achieve it—they seem well on their way to succeeding in the “real world.” And perhaps we’d all benefit from embracing some of our own youthful innocence.
I’ve been a fan of Vika Gazinskaya’s work from the get-go. Every season, I pay her a visit in Paris at the Ritz to see her latest designs. Gazinskaya’s passion and attention to detail always mesmerize me. Her designs are never too commercial, nor are they inspired by anyone else’s work. When her namesake collection arrived on Net-a-Porter, it sold out in days, despite the lofty price tags, which are due to the fact that all her wares are demi-couture and made in Russia. She always wanted to make her pieces available to a larger audience—and now she has. The designer is partnering with & Other Stories, a sister brand of H&M. The collection will launch on May 5 at Colette and on colette.fr, and later in May, it will be available at & Other Stories across Europe. If you’re based in the U.S. like I am, the only chance you’ll get to purchase the collection is on Colette’s website—and the prices are pretty great. Tops will start at 45 euros and dresses at 125 euros. Needless to say, I’ll be logging on to Colette’s website the minute the range is available.
As kicks go, the Bata Tennis has quite an exotic pedigree. Worn by hundreds of millions of Indian schoolchildren since 1936, the long, lean sneaker with distinctive corrugated rubber-toe guard and pinstripe is one of the best-selling shoes of all time. But until now, it was only available on the subcontinent.
Company founder Tomas Bata set out to “shoe mankind” in 1894 and transformed the small, Czechoslovakian cobbler into one of the first brands to open its own factories all over the world. Along the way, Bata built company towns to cater to every need of his workers and constructed Bata planes to fly teams across the globe.
Today the shoe giant produces 15 million pairs in India annually, and through its twenty-five factories throughout the world, serves 1 million customers daily. But Bata is still considered a phantom brand by trainer collectors who snap up rare vintage pairs for increasingly high prices.
To celebrate its 120th anniversary, Bata has produced the first international edition of the Bata Tennis for spring in its original white canvas with green pinstripe and new versions in indigo blue and black, available exclusively at Colette in Paris; Dover Street Market in New York, London, and Tokyo; and Miami’s The Webster.
“We’ve been using the same Indian last since the 1930s, which was designed to fit feet across many different regions, and that’s what gives the shoe its unique elongated shape,” says Charles Pignal (great-grandson of Tomas Bata), who spent several weeks fine-tuning the shoe at the brand’s original factory near Calcutta. “There are a lot of shoes in Bata’s history that are iconic,” says Pignal, “but this particular shoe is a real emblem of what we stand for. When I talk to Indians, they all say, ‘Everyone wore those!’” This spring we can all wear them.
Here’s to new beginnings. Iconic travel magazine Holiday, whose pages were graced with such bylines as Steinbeck, Kerouac, Didion, and Hemingway before it shuttered in 1977, will relaunch this month. Creative director Franck Durand (who previously lent his keen eye to the likes of Balmain and Isabel Marant) will be heading up the title alongside Marc Beaugé. The publication’s 21st-century debut boasts an Ibizan dispatch from novelist Arthur Dreyfus, photography by Josh Olins (below), and a recherché peek into Inez & Vinoodh’s Manhattan loft. Dubbed “The 69 Issue,” the Fall/Winter 2014 offering, which is currently being celebrated via a window at Colette, draws from the freewheeling sensibilities of 1969. And for those whose tastes for mid-century jet-set glamour aren’t to be sated by print alone, still to come are a café and sister clothing line. Only time will tell, but we’ve got a hunch that where Holiday is concerned, absence does indeed make the heart grow fonder.
Holiday‘s 373rd issue hits newsstands April 5, with exclusive images debuting on Style.com.
The 25th annual ANDAM Fashion Award ceremony will take place on July 3, and today it was announced that seven new judges will be joining the expert panel. John Demsey (group president, Estée Lauder Companies Inc.), Caroline de Maigret (music producer and model), Stefano Martinetto (CEO, Tomorrow London Ltd.), François-Henri Pinault (CEO, Kering), Xavier Romatet (CEO, Condé Nast France), Anne-Sophie Von Clear (Le Figaro), and Ellen von Unwerth (photographer, pictured left) will determine who will win the grand prize of 250,000 euros and far-reaching global recognition. The new team joins such returning judges as curator Pamela Golbin, Colette’s Sarah Andelman, and Style.com’s Nicole Phelps.