77 posts tagged "Colette"
The streetwise French-born designer Julien David has been on a hot streak lately, scooping up the Andam Fashion Award in 2012 and enjoying the kind of die-hard, tell-your-friends support from retailers like Colette’s Sarah Andelman and The Webster’s Laure Heriard Dubreuil that fellow designers would give their eyeteeth for. His latest coup is the opening of his first-ever boutique, in the Jingumae neighborhood of his adopted city, Tokyo—and, just in case you needed the reaffirmation, he’s stamped the concrete facade with “Julien David Jingumae Shop.” “I believe every location has a certain vibe,” David explained to Style.com. “I would like each of my stores to have its own characteristics, music, and atmosphere, and offer customers a unique, genuine experience in different locations. To show how this specific area is different than another one, how things are here, and what we think about and enjoy locally.” Inside, there are fixtures in glass, metal, concrete, and Japanese wood, finished off with a dripping splatter of paint. “I wanted to invent a place that would be the best environment to experience my collections, to have the same playfulness and urban raw energy that we try to inject in the clothes,” David said. Not far from the shopping meccas of Omotesando and Harajuku, he has built a room of his own.
“Life should always be fun and quirky,” says Hong Kong-based sunglasses designer René Chu. Her line of acetate frames, aptly dubbed Revé by René (a play on the French word for “dream”), is joie de vivre realized. With an unconventional, playful appeal, her unisex prototypes took months to master, and boast removable, magnetic cat ears (on Make Me Meow, above) and screw-on talons (on Beautiful Monster).
A former model and graduate of Los Angeles’ Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Chu has amassed an impressive group of stockists, including Colette in Paris and 10 Corso Como in Seoul. Her wares begin at $320.
“You’ll be surprised how effective putting a set of ears on someone can be in transforming them into a completely different character,” Chu tells us. These transformative qualities were inspired both by the laid-back lifestyle of Los Angeles and the modern dynamism of her second home, Hong Kong.
At the moment, Chu is working on perfecting a pair of oversize aviators and finalizing some particularly fantastical sunnies, which will feature a detachable unicorn horn. Sounds like the stuff that fashion rêves are made of.
Things began to heat up at the French Open in Paris yesterday, as Jo-Wilfried Tsonga defeated Roger Federer, raising hopes for a hometown win. (The last time that happened was thirty years ago, when national icon Yannick Noah took home the trophy.)
Meanwhile, inside the French Tennis Federation’s museum, Lacoste invited a handful of guests to preview trophies of a different kind. To mark its eightieth birthday, the brand invited nine French luxury houses to interpret its crocodilian heritage—Hermès checked in with a tennis satchel in shiny pale green croc; Goyard with a roomy travel bag, and Boucheron with bejeweled renditions of the house logo. The idea was lying in wait in the archives, noted Boucheron creative director Claire Choisne: As it turns out, house founder René Lacoste commissioned a shimmering croc from Boucheron for his wife, Simone, in 1957.
This morning, the lineup was already packed up and headed to Colette, where it will grace the windows starting on Monday. But while some things, like the silver golf club by Christofle or those Boucheron pins, can be special ordered, others, like the Hermès and Goyard bags, are unique: The next time you’ll see them is when the Lacoste museum opens at its home base, in Troyes, sometime in 2014. Still, there is one accessible option for everyone: polo-striped éclairs by Fauchon, which will be available through June.
Style.com contributing editor and party reporter Darrell Hartman circles the city and, occasionally, the globe in the line of duty. In a regular column, he reports on the topics—whatever they may be at whatever given moment—that are stirring the social set.
“Yes, the lad was premature,” goes a line from The Picture of Dorian Gray. “He was gathering his harvest while it was yet spring.”
I doubt I’m the first person who has, upon meeting Dorian Grinspan, thought of Oscar Wilde’s fable about precious youth. This Dorian is real. The 20-year-old founder and editor Out of Order magazine, he’s been sowing his seeds early—and some of the fashion world’s biggest influencers are taking notice.
Grinspan was born in Paris and came to the U.S. to study at Yale. But while an earlier generation might’ve chosen to wait for a diploma before launching into the world, Grinspan didn’t see the point. “I didn’t come [to the U.S.] wanting to do a magazine. I arrived at Yale and I was really, really bored,” he told Women’s Wear Daily. [Full disclosure: this reporter spent four years at Yale, and did not find it boring.] Grinspan will start his senior year in the Fall, majoring in American Studies, but he recently took an apartment in New York, and says that thanks to some Franco-esque schedule jiggering will be spending just three days a week in New Haven.
Youth these days! Grinspan is already a darling of the industry. WWD is only one of several publications to anoint him an up-and-comer, and his biannual is already carried by the likes of Opening Ceremony and Colette, and the second issue, which Grinspan launched last week, boasts the sort of top-shelf contributors of which many start-up outlets dream. Among the photo credits and profile subjects are Larry Clark, Ryan McGinley, and Olivier Theyskens. These are gets worth bragging about, even if Grinspan is modest, or at least PR-savvy, enough not to. “It’s actually funny to see how accessible these people are and how much they want to help,” he told me at last week’s launch party at Fivestory, an uptown boutique. (His fashion-model looks—literally, as in repped by DNA—aren’t the reason, but surely they can’t hurt.) Gus Van Sant, he added, had been “really interested, and we almost shot something,” but the scheduling hadn’t worked out.
Grinspan has plenty more influential supporters, including fellow editors. “Stephen Gan has been amazing to me,” he said. And after meeting Stefano Tonchi at a party in Cannes last year, Grinspan appeared in W this spring. Starting in the fall, he said, he’ll be writing for the magazine’s website. Quick work. For a moment, Grinspan did pay some dues—as an intern for Carine Roitfeld. Among the people met while working there was photographer Michael Avedon, who shot a story for the new issue. (Avedon is just a year older than Grinspan, and the great-grandson of Richard.)
Grinspan holds himself well—and tends to do so in the right company. Cynthia Rowley, who hosted an after-party of sorts for the magazine at her boutique-cum-sweet-shop, Curious, couldn’t exactly remember how she’d first met him. She was pretty sure his boyfriend had interned at her husband’s gallery. In any case, Rowley said, she’d gotten to know him through “the Brant kids.”
How has Grinspan done it, in an industry with fewer and fewer footholds for young talent? “I don’t think there’s a secret. I feel like everything is so circumstantial,” he explained. When pressed, he added, “Both my mom and my dad have a lot of connections in fashion, I guess.” His mother, a graphic designer, got him interested in clothes and style early on. His father, a lawyer, worked “for a long time” with BCBG. And there’s his godmother, Numéro editor–in-chief Babette Djian. “She’s been great,” Grinspan admits. “We go to fashion shows together if we both have an invite. But I would never call her up and say, ‘Please take me to Jean Paul Gaultier!’ That’s not what I want our relationship to be.”
If things keep going the way they’re going, the occasional missing invite won’t be an issue. And why shouldn’t they? Grinspan has a way about him, evident in the manner in which he politely escorted Clark up the stairs at Rowley’s party and posed with him for photos. Clark, like Rowley, couldn’t recall how he and Grinspan had first started talking, but he did remember meeting Grinspan face to face. “He’s very enthusiastic, but not overbearing at all—just a nice young man,” he said. And one more likely to make a splash than all the others.
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.