4 posts tagged "Collier Schorr"
Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier has made a policy of hiring artists to shoot the label’s ad campaigns. His previous collaborators have included Nan Goldin, Philip-Lorca diCorcia, and Tina Barney. For BV’s new Resort lineup, he turned to Collier Schorr, an artist best known for portraits of adolescents that merge realism and fantasy. “I’m drawn to the immediacy of [her] images…the fearless dynamic between artist and subject,” Maier says in the video we’re debuting exclusively here. “The campaign and the collection are about surface and what’s beneath, about the layers that create a look and an identity.” For more of the designer’s impressions on Schorr and the collection, watch the clip.
Fans of VPL won’t be surprised to hear that designer Victoria Bartlett is obsessed with anatomy—VPL is short for Visible Panty Line, after all. But her fixation on the body goes beyond her signature maxi dresses with the bra-cup tops. Tomorrow night, Bartlett is hosting an opening for an exhibition at her Mercer Street store in Soho that she curated with Renee Vara, in which she invited 15 artists to submit work based on the theme (and shown under the title) Second Skin. Philip-Lorca diCorcia, Jack Pierson, Collier Schorr, and Mark Borthwick are among the participants. Hrafnhildur Arnardottir (a.k.a. Shoplifter) is doing a performance in the shop window. All the work except hers will be for sale. “It could be literal, or it could be interpretive,” Bartlett says of the submissions. “It’s also about what’s underneath, getting under your skin, annoyance—all those different points are represented.” Ugo Rondinone’s wax and earth pigments sculpture, nude (xxxxxxxx) (pictured), could almost double as a mannequin. You won’t find any clothes hanging from it before or after the opening—the show will be up for two months—but more than likely his piece and the others will influence Bartlett’s own work. The crossover of media “keeps me ticking,” she says. “It’s fodder for my brain.”
Second Skin opens tomorrow at VPL, 5 Mercer St., NYC.
At the VPL show almost two weeks ago, many of the models came down the runway with abstract, hand-crocheted accessories by the young designer Aran Baik. Based on anatomical drawings, the accessories served to outline and extend the skeletal lines of the models’ bodies—ribcage, hip bone, shoulder blade. The pieces spoke to the collection’s theme, Atlas of Anatomy, but they also worked as an elegant summary of the obsessions VPL designer Victoria Bartlett has nurtured since she launched in 2003. Bartlett’s fascination with the body is frank. Her collections have often seemed like the product of a dialogue between a choreographer and an X-ray technician. Bartlett has opened that conversation up to a variety of collaborators. Baik was one of several designers who participated in VPL’s recent Spring show. And over the years, she has worked closely with many artists, most of whom delivered work to VPL UNHINGED, a retrospective opening on September 27 at the Dopolavaro Gallery in Milan. The show will feature new work from some—including Mark Borthwick, Jack Pierson, and Jessica Metrani—while others, like Steven Klein and Collier Schorr, are contributing iconic pieces from their archives. Here, Bartlett talks to Style.com about tap-dancing twins, time capsules, and exposing what lies beneath.
VPL UNHINGED opens toward the end of fashion week in Milan. Was that timing coincidental, or did the gallery intend for the show to find a place on the calendar?
Actually, they invited me to do an exhibition in June, around the time of the men’s collections in Milan. But I was just too busy, so we pushed it back. The intention was never to be part of fashion week, but more like something at the edges of it. We also felt like the show couldn’t just be about clothes. This is more like a dialogue with VPL, in different mediums—photography, painting, etching, sculpture, film. We’re going to have a performance, too, the night of the opening. Everyone in the group will be wearing one-of-a-kind showpieces.