9 posts tagged "Consuelo Castiglioni"
Trieste, an Italian town just outside of Venice, is charmingly stuck in another era. Ancient Roman relics are just minutes away (by boat, of course) from Castello di Miramare, a 19th-century castle built specifically so Empress Sissi of Austria could have her numerous nervous breakdowns in decadent seclusion. The cobblestone streets are narrow. The bars close at midnight. And the Internet connection is virtually nonexistent. So it’s ironic, perhaps, that this old-fashioned locale is home to International Talent Support, one of the world’s foremost fashion competitions known for championing the new. Founded by Barbara Franchin—a Trieste native—in 2001, the competition has given such designers as Michael van der Ham, Peter Pilotto, Astrid Andersen, Aitor Throup, and Heaven Tanudiredja their starts. Franchin has helped other victors find work placement at mega houses including Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood, Givenchy, Lanvin, Chloé, Kenzo, and many, many more.
According to Franchin, who travels to fashion schools all over the globe to scout new talent, more than 1,200 jewelry, accessories, and fashion designers applied for the 2014 competition. This past weekend, eleven finalists in each category (save accessories, which had ten) presented their collections to esteemed juries. I sat in on the fashion section, and I can tell you, it was a pretty nerve-racking experience for these young designers, all of whom were just out of fashion school (albeit esteemed ones like the Royal College of Art and Central Saint Martins). But considering this year’s judges, I couldn’t blame them for being anxious. Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni, Susie Bubble, and Diesel’s Nicola Formichetti were all on the panel, surveying the collections and asking questions. And considering Diesel is the main sponsor of ITS, Formichetti’s presence was no doubt particularly intimidating, despite the designer’s signature laid-back demeanor.
“This competition is very important to me because we want to discover talents when they are virgins,” explained Renzo Rosso, Diesel’s founder, who is deeply invested in ITS. “We screen eighty countries and one hundred universities. [The designers] are just out of school—they’re pure, and every year we hire one or two [finalists] at Diesel. They can really come in and help grow the brand, and it’s very important to help open doors for these young people.”
Formichetti offered that he liked the competitors who really went for it, like Yasuto Kimura (above, left), whose backpack-jacket hybrids, futuristic suiting, and matching surgical masks were inspired by Japanese businessmen jammed into commuter trains. He ended up taking the SHOWstudio Award. Also on Formichetti’s radar was Ukrainian Central Saint Martins graduate Natalija Mencej. Her extremely detailed and sternly cut menswear range (above, right) was based around, as she told it, “Japanese truckers who trick out their trucks.” Mencej earned the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Award. “I want to see something bonkers,” Formichetti told me. “I don’t want to see something commercial—I want to see inside their world.”
Later that day, Formichetti got his wish. The theme behind the runway show, set in a building by the sea, was “Lucid Dreaming.” And as the designers sent their collections down the runway, it was as if all their “bonkers” dreams had come to life. Katherine Roberts-Wood took the Fashion Collection of the Year prize for her womenswear, which looked like an armadillo had been crossbred with a rose and a Slinky. And I mean that in the best way possible. It was mind-boggling how well she controlled her silhouettes despite the countless laser-cut petals of bonded neoprene that made up her wares. “It started off with the obsessive idea of repetition,” she told me after the show. “Each piece is linked together without stitching.” Her win, which came with 15,000 euros and the chance to present at next year’s competition, was much deserved. The 28-year-old Royal College of Art graduate hopes to launch her own line with the spoils.
The Fashion Special Prize went to Icelandic designer Anita Hirlekar for her vibrant, maniacally embroidered womenswear offering (left). “The starting point for me was actually the reverse side of an embroidered sample I found,” said the Central Saint Martins grad after the win. “It was very organic, rather than really ‘perfect,’ so I kind of wanted to explore that and make a painting of sorts.” It took her four days to make each outfit. The stitching sometimes made her fingers bleed. Her efforts earned her 5,000 euros.
And then, of course, there was the Diesel prize. Each fashion competitor was asked to create a single denim look, and the designer behind the best ensemble would be awarded 20,000 euro, as well as a six-month internship at Diesel. This year, that lucky victor was Zoe Walters, a 27-year-old Royal College of Art grad who caught the judges’ attention with her sculptural bonded denim jacket and oversize deep blue denim shirtdress (top. I’m not a denim fan, per se, but I wanted this outfit on my body immediately. “I want to get some really solid experience with Diesel,” said Walters about her next step. “Then we’ll see what happens.”
But the formal awardees won’t be the only winners in this competition. Formichetti plans to pull some of the accessory finalists’ work for Brooke Candy‘s upcoming video. Expect to see ceramic limbs, extreme black ballerina shoes, and cascading crystal baubles in Candy’s next flick. I’d imagine that, for many an emerging designer, that’s a dream in and of itself.
The Spring ’15 menswear collections are under way in Milan, and will be followed by the shows in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Spring ’15 previews is available here.
WHO: Marni, designed by Consuelo Castiglioni
WHEN: Sunday, June 22
WHAT: “A soft, eccentric uniform. This season the Marni man is an homage to mid-century design space: interiors and architecture.” —Consuelo Castiglioni. The designer sent us a sneak peek of her Spring ’15 collection, above.
“Reset to Zero,” claimed the notes at Jil Sander’s comeback show. It could’ve been the rallying cry for the whole Spring season. Sander’s new minimalism is different—softer, at first glance, and slightly more accessible—than the clinical aesthetic she pioneered two decades ago. Still, we expected simplicity from the Queen of Clean. It was the pared-down approach of other designers that caught us off guard. Giambattista Valli, who just a few months ago was embellishing couture veils with butterflies, traded in furbelows for crisp tailoring, and Consuelo Castiglioni swapped Marni’s signature quirky prints for a streamlined monochrome palette (pictured). “More clean, more fresh, more light,” she told Style.com’s reporter Tim Blanks. In all three cases, she was right.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of other minimal moments from Spring 2013.
Marni’s Consuelo Castiglioni won’t show her latest menswear efforts in Milan until tomorrow, but Style.com got an early look at what she’s got in store. The collection, “an exploration of prints used on simple forms,” is showcased in this psychedelic film (directed by Clare Shilland) made in conjunction with Saturday’s presentation. Here, in Projections, watch model Will Westfall make the clothes come to life on screen.
No sooner has the Versace for H&M collection arrived than the Swedish mass retailer is plotting its next partnership: This one with Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni. The Italian label will collaborate with H&M on a Spring collection for men and women, including accessories, shoes, scarves, and jewelry. The retailer promises all-over prints, bold color, and classic Marni silhouettes, including full pleated skirts, dresses, and cropped pants. “I wanted to create a true Marni wardrobe by revisiting all our favorite pieces in signature fabrics and prints. As always, I love juxtaposing prints and colors, mixing modern tribal with Bauhaus graphic and adding sporty utilitarian elements,” Castiglioni said in a statement. The collection will be available in over 250 H&M stores and online March 8, 2012. And keep reading for a video of Castiglioni and H&M’s Margareta van den Bosch discussing the label and the collaboration with Style.com’s Tim Blanks. Continue Reading “Up Next: Marni For H&M” »