8 posts tagged "Costume Institute"
When the subject of this year’s annual Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute exhibition was first announced, the general crowd reaction seemed to be, “Charles who?”
Months later, with the Charles James exhibition set to close this Sunday, that’s a question a lot fewer people are asking. Charles James: Beyond Fashion turned out to be the fifth-most-visited show of the last 25 years of Costume Institute exhibitions, according to the museum. Attendance didn’t quite reach that of the record-breaking 2011 Alexander McQueen Savage Beauty exhibition (which drew an unprecedented 661,509 visitors), but it did top last year’s Punk show and the previous year’s Schiaparelli/Prada display.
“My feeling was it was going to help us that he was generally unknown, because it allowed us to introduce him to an audience that I knew would be enchanted by the work,” Harold Koda, the Costume Institute’s curator in charge, told The New York Times.
The crowds were dazzled, and those who didn’t make it in person got a heavy dose of the James world through social media. There are currently more than 15,000 Instagram posts with a Charles James hashtag. (By comparison, there are only roughly 5,000 Insta posts tagged with #savagebeauty.) Among them are posts about the exhibition by some of the widely followed Insta-stars, and there was even an “impromptu fashion shoot” featuring top models wearing James-esque gowns that flooded our news feed in the week leading up to the opening. Like it or not, the world was forced to get to know James and his sculptural designs, thanks to the social media buzz that surrounded it.
Though the exhibition ends this weekend, it looks like James is here to stay for a while, due to the recently announced revival of the label by Harvey Weinstein and his wife, Marchesa designer Georgina Chapman. Until then, the exhibition will live on digitally, thanks to Twitter and Instagram.
The Met’s Costume Institute has moved on from Prada to punk for its annual spring exhibition. This morning, Punk: Chaos to Couture was announced as 2013′s exhibition, opening to the public May 9 and focusing on the origins of punk and its impact on high fashion today. Costume Institute curator Andrew Bolton tells WWD, “Punk broke all rules when it came to fashion, and everything became possible after punk. Its impact on high fashion became so enormous, and continues at the same time.” The exhibition will feature roughly 100 men’s and women’s designs, from a large group of participating designers including Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang, and Azzedine Alaïa, juxtaposed with original mid-seventies punk pieces in gallery sections like “Rebel Heroes” and “Pavilions of Anarchy and Elegance.” As for the annual accompanying benefit, the date has been set for May 6 with Rooney Mara, Lauren Santo Domingo, and Riccardo Tisci all serving as co-chairs with Anna Wintour. Photographer Nick Knight, who is serving as the exhibition’s creative consultant, will head up the gala’s look with Raul Avila.
Karl Lagerfeld got waxed. Germany’s oldest waxwork museum, Panoptikum Hamburg, is paying tribute to their nation’s finest, Lagerfeld included, by turning them into eccentric wax figures. Lagerfeld’s was unveiled to the public last week (pictured), interestingly placed between Pope Benedict XVI and the German prostitute Domenica. [Telegraph]
Jennifer Lopez has a new man: Zuhair Murad. The pop singer has tapped the Beirut-based designer to create looks for her summer concert tour, including a feathered skirt, a body suit, and several short dresses. This is not the first time Lopez and Murad have worked together—the singer wore one of Murad’s gown to the 2011 Met Gala and the Academy Awards. [WWD]
Could Michael Jackson be the subject of the Met’s Costume Institute exhibition in 2014? Sources say maybe. The exhibit has the potential to be a hit, since Jackson was known for his iconic costumes, including Swarovski-encrusted gloves and looks from Balmain, Tom Ford, and Givenchy. [Hintmag.com]
The collaboration between H&M and Maison Martin Margiela has been confirmed. The Paris-based design house will produce a one-off collection that will go on sale November 15. “This collaboration will be a great and memorable fashion moment,” said H&M creative director Margareta van den Bosch. [WWD]
The wild things are descending upon Soho. The author of the children’s classic Where the Wild Things Are, Maurice Sendak, is the subject of a retrospective on display through September 3. The collection on view includes several of the author’s stories from the Little Bear series to his The Nutcracker drawings. [Art Info]
When we set out to tell the story of 2011 by the numbers, one loomed especially large: 661,509, the record-breaking number of visitors who lined up, often for hours at a time, to see the Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty (left) at the Met.
But it wasn’t just a banner year for the Met and the late, great McQueen; designers and museums forged a strong bond this year, one that looks likely to continue well into the next. Museums across the globe invited designers into their halls and the results have made for some of the best exhibitions in memory.
During Couture week, Hussein Chalayan opened a retrospective at Paris’ Musée des Arts Decoratifs, where next year, Marc Jacobs and his work for Louis Vuitton will take up residence. The City of Light also played host to Ralph Lauren and his collection of automobiles (it also now boasts an enormous new RL store and restaurant, one of the town’s new favorite spots for burgers). And Florence is the new home of the Museo Gucci, opened during Milan’s Spring 2012 week with all due fanfare, and a Blondie performance to boot.
In America, socials flocked to San Francisco for the opening of Balenciaga and Spain (which also traveled to New York) and to Dallas for The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier, which debuted earlier this year at Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts. Just this month, Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte opened RODARTE: Fra Angelico, a show of the dresses their created for their June presentation at Pitti, at L.A.’s LACMA.
Farther afield, Dior went to Russia, where house jewelry designer Camille Micelli sent us this postcard, for Inspiration Dior, attended, naturally, by a lavish party. And the Netherlands continues to be a slightly off-the-radar destination for fashion’s cultural tourists. A retrospective of the work of Azzedine Alaïa is now on view in Gronningen, outside Amsterdam, and the capital’s contemporary-photo museum, FOAM, which hosted the likes of Jefferson Hack for a panel on What’s Next, which followed a retrospective of work by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin—one which eventually became the germ of their new career-spanning anthology, Pretty Much Everything.
Here in New York, the more traditional homes of fashion, like FIT’s Fashion Museum, were busy, too. The museum recently opened the first part of The Great Designers, including Armani, Dior, Givenchy, and McQueen, and plans to open part two in March. Chief curator and museum director Valerie Steele also worked with clotheshorse and collector Daphne Guinness on an exhibition of her own holdings—which, it turns out, Guinness keeps organized via computer database.
Next year, all eyes will be on Miuccia Prada for the next Costume Institute exhibition, Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada on Fashion. But before then, there’s a Louboutin retrospective in London to look forward to, on the heels of the shoemaker’s victory-lap 20th anniversary year. And WWD reports today that several fashion labels are taking a renewed interest in their own histories, too. Balmain is ramping up its archival holdings, and Chloé recently brought on an in-house archivist, in anticipation of a retrospective planned for its 60th anniversary next year.