14 posts tagged "Couture Spring 2009"
The economy might be dragging its feet, but as we have seen over the past few days, the couturiers—and souliers—are dreaming of walking on sunshine. At Roger Vivier, creative director Bruno Frisoni eschewed all thoughts of doom and gloom when conceiving his “One Is Too” couture collection in favor of excess. (Even the copywriter got in on the act, exalting over a model in which tones of “abandoned blues, shipwrecked pinks and emerald greens applaud in silence those who cast their eyes upon it.”) He played with the idea of plenty (two shoes), piling on the decoration (too too), but also made his models ingeniously multifunctional (two uses). The Dovima style, “which chirps of adventures to come,” for example, is decorated with 24-karat-dipped birds that can also be worn as hairclips. That’s a double shift we can get behind.
At 27, newly married and with her first baby on the way, Brussels-based designer Cathy Pill already has everything lined up for fall. She gets a jump on the season by showing her ready-to-wear ahead of her peers during Paris Couture week, and what she’s up to is getting better by the season. She belongs (in spirit, if not geographically) to the cohort of young modernist print talents that has been on the rise in Europe, like Peter Pilotto and Josh Goot. Pill also has a mathematical brain that approaches the draping of a dress like a geometry problem. Her first experiments, though approaching Vionnet-esque elegance once on the body, would often drive customers into frustrated tangles in changing rooms. “Now, though, I’ve worked it out,” Pill laughs. “I want to do dresses that are as easy as T-shirts to put on. And I’ve gone through everything, thinking what I want to wear.” That turns out to be a combination of Xerox-manipulated images of a piece of rock, printed onto jersey or taffeta and then (in some cases) topped with a fur chubby. The cool part is the way she’s dyed the pelt tips to reflect the print, and implanted the fur on top of a tailored jacket so it looks as if you’re wearing two pieces, but without the bulk.
Nothing has been confirmed about Olivier Theyskens’ possible exit from Nina Ricci at the end of his contract and his potential replacement Louis Vuitton studio director Peter Copping, but it sure is fun to speculate. Real life: just like high school.
Page Six founder James Brady died Monday, but his legacy and disciples (Perez et al.) live on.
From the Way Harsh Dept.: “Etiquette is on a downward spiral, and politeness is disappearing.” As if we didn’t have it bad enough.
Are you dating a banker? Help is out there, just 12 steps away.
Domino closes. No joke. Just sadness.