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April 20 2014

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14 posts tagged "Couture Spring 2009"

Blasblog From Paris: No Really, Kanye Really Loves fashion

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Now, I haven’t been the only one to document Kanye West’s current obsession with anything and everything having to do with high fashion. It’s been reported in nearly every media outlet that if there’s a runway, you can expect Kanye (or “Kenny,” as the French and Japanese paparazzi refer to him) to be there. But it wasn’t until I sat behind him at the Elie Saab show yesterday that I realized just how deep that passion for fashion went. The mulleted part-time hip-hop artist told me that he was “sick, physically sick” at the thought that he had lost a piece of luggage with his favorite Margiela jacket in it. (Apparently he only just realized that one of his LV cases didn’t make it into his suite at Le Meurice, which leads me to wonder just how much luggage Monsieur West travels with.) He followed up the tale of woe with one of resourcefulness. Turns out that in his extensive experience in the fashion industry, he’s picked up a few tricks—like sewing. When the cleaners roughed up the white jacket he wore to Saab’s show they detached a part of the lining from the cuff. Well, a silly thing like an incompetent cleaner wasn’t going to mess up Kanye’s look, so he scooped up a sewing kit and whip-stitched it himself in the car on the way to the show. Maybe that’s why he was so late getting there.

Photo: Eric Ryan / Getty Images

Vivier’s Too Two Tango

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The economy might be dragging its feet, but as we have seen over the past few days, the couturiers—and souliers—are dreaming of walking on sunshine. At Roger Vivier, creative director Bruno Frisoni eschewed all thoughts of doom and gloom when conceiving his “One Is Too” couture collection in favor of excess. (Even the copywriter got in on the act, exalting over a model in which tones of “abandoned blues, shipwrecked pinks and emerald greens applaud in silence those who cast their eyes upon it.”) He played with the idea of plenty (two shoes), piling on the decoration (too too), but also made his models ingeniously multifunctional (two uses). The Dovima style, “which chirps of adventures to come,” for example, is decorated with 24-karat-dipped birds that can also be worn as hairclips. That’s a double shift we can get behind.

Popping Pill

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At 27, newly married and with her first baby on the way, Brussels-based designer Cathy Pill already has everything lined up for fall. She gets a jump on the season by showing her ready-to-wear ahead of her peers during Paris Couture week, and what she’s up to is getting better by the season. She belongs (in spirit, if not geographically) to the cohort of young modernist print talents that has been on the rise in Europe, like Peter Pilotto and Josh Goot. Pill also has a mathematical brain that approaches the draping of a dress like a geometry problem. Her first experiments, though approaching Vionnet-esque elegance once on the body, would often drive customers into frustrated tangles in changing rooms. “Now, though, I’ve worked it out,” Pill laughs. “I want to do dresses that are as easy as T-shirts to put on. And I’ve gone through everything, thinking what I want to wear.” That turns out to be a combination of Xerox-manipulated images of a piece of rock, printed onto jersey or taffeta and then (in some cases) topped with a fur chubby. The cool part is the way she’s dyed the pelt tips to reflect the print, and implanted the fur on top of a tailored jacket so it looks as if you’re wearing two pieces, but without the bulk.

Photo: Courtesy of Cathy Pill

Smoke = Fire? Copping May Be In At Ricci

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Nothing has been confirmed about Olivier Theyskens’ possible exit from Nina Ricci at the end of his contract and his potential replacement Louis Vuitton studio director Peter Copping, but it sure is fun to speculate. Real life: just like high school.

Valentino’s couture collection heads to Jumbotrons near you tonight in Paris, Milan, and Rome; and, no, Mr. Garavani had nothing to do with it.

Page Six founder James Brady died Monday, but his legacy and disciples (Perez et al.) live on.

From the Way Harsh Dept.: “Etiquette is on a downward spiral, and politeness is disappearing.” As if we didn’t have it bad enough.

Are you dating a banker? Help is out there, just 12 steps away.

Domino closes. No joke. Just sadness.

Photo: Jimi Celeste / Patrick McMullan

Blasblog From Paris: Bonne Année Lily D.

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Last night was a good one for Lily Donaldson. She nabbed the finale look at Givenchy, a shocking two-piece number that had giant black removable shoulder pads. Then a few hours later, clad in a pair of PVC zip trousers, she found herself folded behind a table at Kaviar Kaspia with a gaggle of girlfriends (Heidi Mount, Dasha Zhukova and Lara Stone, and Luigi Murenu and George Cortina, who admitted they were girlfriends, too), celebrating her 22nd birthday. First, there was the obligatory fashion nostalgia— Donaldson complained about the time Cortina made her crawl through a burning hot Nevada desert with all the protection of an evening gown—and then it was dancing at the Chacha Club, where Josephine de la Baume was deejaying. Turns out, if Lara Stone hadn’t been such an impatient fetus, Tuesday would have been a dual supermodel birthday, since it was technically the Dutch beauty’s due date. (She came out a month early.) But still, a generous Donaldson let her blow at a candle, too.

Photo: Matteo Volta / ImaxTree