6 posts tagged "Couture"
This week, our collective conscience (and inbox) was overwhelmed by Paris couture. Between star-studded parties; hundreds of street-style pics; and, of course, the runway shows themselves, you could say we were a bit preoccupied. Our popular Look of the Day polls revealed everything we’re loving about the new collections, from the accessory you can wear now to the dresses destined for the red carpet. On Tuesday, for example, we took note of a couture mini trend: head scarves. At Giambattista Valli, models sported white bow-tied sashes that could surely help us all beat the heat this summer. The feminine, retro look was No. 1 in your book. First runner-up Marco Zanini also opted for head scarves at Schiaparelli, enlisting milliner Stephen Jones to design a luxe do-rag. On Wednesday, we took note of the stylish mommies-to-be spotted at couture, namely Ashleigh Good’s much-buzzed-about closing look at Chanel. It took first place by a landslide. What were we coveting on Thursday? Fendi’s new Karlito buggie, of course. It debuted on the Fall ’14 runways and has quickly become the fashion set’s favorite party prop—Alexandra Richards (above) gave the furry bauble a kiss on Tuesday at Fendi’s party. The Kaiser himself was even spotted carrying Karlito through the streets of Paris.
Click here to see what else was on our minds this week, plus all of the winning looks.
Every day, Style.com’s editors reveal their current obsessions—and where to buy them. Check out today’s pick, below.
This Friday is my 27th birthday. In recent years, it’s become something of a tradition for me to buy a new dress to celebrate the occasion. But with the Fall Haute Couture shows now in full swing, I’ll be glued to my desk for the rest of the week, so I’ll be finding my party look online this time around. Hands-down, my favorite e-tailer at the moment is Avenue 32, which focuses on promoting emerging talent. While perusing the site’s well-curated selection, I regularly come across new designers to keep on my radar, and recently stumbled upon this perfectly feminine, striped linen frock by up-and-coming Italian label Vivetta. With its cute bow and cutout details at the sides, it’ll quickly become a staple in my summer wardrobe. I’ll be pairing my birthday dress with these fantastic cobalt blue suede sandals by Maryam Nassir Zadeh, and topping it all off with my vintage jean jacket, which will make the outfit casual enough to fit in with the hipsters at the psych rock concert in Bushwick I’ll be headed to.
Vivetta pale blue cutout Rosa dress, $258, Buy it now
Thirty-nine-year-old Clarisse Hieraix has been debuting her collections via well-staged presentations for the past two seasons. Yesterday, however, the designer stepped up to the fashion-show format and paraded her Spring ’13 couture looks down the runway in Paris. Hieraix belongs to the hyper-focused, nose-to-the-grindstone breed of up-and-coming talent, and her Spring collection, which the designer described as a “courtship parade,” made a compelling bid for a happy marriage of opposites: minimalism and (controlled) exuberance, transparency and substance, fluidity and structure. Take, for example, a satin perfecto with sharp lines and upturned shoulders paired with a swingy anise-green miniskirt pleated like a ruff. Then there was a series of precise little cocktail dresses, which included one in black velvet. The swell of its hips was flatteringly coaxed out at the sides, and delicate layers of petticoats were held up by a little bustle. Another one in red boasted a large sprig of coral, which punctuated the bust. One model wore a lacy redingote-meets-crinoline jacket that swung around her body like an open cage. As it happens, the night before the show, that piece was still a long coat, but in the eleventh hour, Hieraix decided something was amiss and lopped it off mid-thigh. “It wasn’t about any particular time period, but I’ve always been fascinated by crinolines,” the designer said backstage. “I think there’s still a lot to do there.”
Following Paris’ couture week earlier this month, there was a general wringing of hands: Whither couture? With a reduced show schedule, Givenchy moving from the runway to an appointment-only salon, and critics like Cathy Horyn decreeing that “Couture is slipping off people’s radars faster than a U.F.O.,” it’s enough to send métier seamstresses running to update their résumés.
What to do? Adapt. That’s what Worth and Paquin, two of couture’s most storied houses, are doing, with fall entries into ready-to-wear—with their traditions, the designers insist, firmly in hand.
For couture, Worth designer Giovanni Bedin showed corseted, “shell-like” redingote coat-dresses overlaid in gold lace and jewels or lavish flora—precursors, as it turns out, to the return of the line (which is known as Courtworth in the U.S.) to ready-to-wear. “We’ll be keeping the ideas, fabrics, and shapes, but expanding them to ready-to-wear,” Bedin noted. The lavish Elizabeth I-inspired dresses are indicative of his direction, a pastiche of historical references but “with more modern details.” (The dresses previewed left and below are from Worth’s Fall ’10 RTW collection.) The launch coincides with a trip into house fragrance archives, too: An updated version of the 1932 scent Je Reviens will be unveiled at Harrods’ Perfume Diaries exhibition in August.
Unlike Worth, which has continued through recent years, the house of Paquin has been shuttered for half a century. But now under the designer and perfumer Libertin Louison, the label is preparing to reenter the market, first with fragrance (updated versions of two 1939 scents, Ever After and 9×9) and then fashion. “Jeanne Paquin was a true avant-garde designer,” says Louison. “She was the first to organize shows in unusual places, like a race track, and the first designer to travel to New York to show her wares. She knew what she wanted, and a century ago—before Chanel—she succeeded as a businesswoman in a man’s world.” He’ll channel the founder’s spirit with “simple, pure clothes with close attention to detail.” (An exclusive sketch of one of his designs for the revived label is below.) Continue Reading “What’s Old Is New Again?” »