3 posts tagged "Cy Twombly"
For their debut Resort collection at Apiece Apart, designers Laura Cramer and Starr Hout stuck to their earthy utilitarian core. “She may just be the woman who is in one place but looking to travel through the clothing,” Cramer said of the contemporary they envisioned sliding into their wide-legged cropped silk trousers; Peruvian-woven sleeved ponchos; and jacquard printed, midi-length column skirts and matching printed crop tops.
In other words, the Apiece Apart Resort woman isn’t so much a Capri-bound jet-setter as a very busy but imaginative careerist dreaming of a life that includes the solitude of Capri moments—and because she never quite leaves her commitment-filled existence in Brooklyn or Seattle or wherever she may be, there’s a practicality that underlines the base of her between-season attire. The (as usual) print-heavy collection was inspired by Cy Twombly’s studio in Rome in the 1960s. “I think it was something about the kind of archaic, beautiful classical columns meeting something really fresh and abstract [in Twombly's work],” explained Cramer. “So the new meets the old, and the decadent meets the really put-together. We had a lot of ideas of ‘who is this woman on the streets of Rome?’”
Circular, deep maroon and warm navy geometric prints were pulled from the tiles in Twombly’s studio and placed on column-shaped (direct references to the classical Roman architecture) dresses and midi skirts. Cotton and cotton blends dominated the range. (“Our woman likes to wash her pieces herself,” quipped Cramer). Denim was also a focus—a simple, collarless shirtdress with a clean, three-quarter-length sleeve is proving a big seller with buyers already. (“Just a more grown-up look for a shirtdress,” noted Cramer.) Cloudy sky blue denim separates—more column skirts and oversize, almost sculptural shirts in cuts appropriate for the office—were enviable for their wearability, as well. “We want to go very democratic. We do want to be for everyone, and we’ve always said intergenerational dressing is very important to us,” said Cramer. There’s nothing overtly conceptual here—just simple, creative professional prints and chambray basics—but that’s never the focus for Cramer and Hout.
As a writer, it was nice to see that the leading Fall ’14 trends during Berlin fashion week were homages to old-fashioned printed words and images. Almost every main show included black-and-white outfits with patterned sections containing actual lettering or imagery that could have been lifted from a newspaper page. Lala Berlin combined panels of pretty white silk and black lace, and pinned signs expounding the virtues of being wild but nice on the backs of its casually structured blazers and flowing coats. Marc Cain adorned a pencil skirt with a vintage New York Times photo of the Williamsburg Bridge. Hien Le, meanwhile, sent out black-and-white egg-shaped wool dresses, knee-length skirts, and boxy blazers for her, and matching sweaters that resembled an illustrator’s charcoal shading paper for him. [ep_anouí] by Eva Poleschinski presented white leather tulip skirts paired with chiffon blouses covered in cursive black scrawl (including a coded charcoal love note to Cy Twombly). Vladimir Karaleev’s graceful, oragami-esque folds of cream-colored felt and silk could have been a frustrated writer’s crumpled blank page. As for the reportage that writers would broadcast about fabric, the big buzz was the appearance of Elizabeth Hurley wearing—hold the presses—black leather leggings and a white top with Morse code-like dots.
For a behind-the-scenes look at Berlin Fashion Week’s street style, parties, and beyond, click through our slideshow.
Angelina Jolie and Sarah Jessica Parker have tied for the top of Forbes‘ ranking of Hollywood’s richest actresses: Both bring in annual earnings of $30 million. The Louis Vuitton campaign star (Jolie) had a good year with high-paying roles in Salt and The Tourist, while Parker makes her money largely from Sex and the City reruns. [Vogue.U.K.]
It’s no optical illusion: Lanvin is doing eyewear. The fashion house signed a deal with Italy’s De Rigo Vision SpA, who also has license agreements with brands like Givenchy and Carolina Herrera. The first batch of shades and prescription frames is due out in December, just in time for the holiday gift-giving season. [WWD]
Missed the Moss-Hince nuptials? Terry Richardson shares a few shots from the big day for all those whose invitations were, ahem, lost in the post. [Fashionologie]
And sad news from the art world: American artist Cy Twombly died in Rome yesterday, at the age of 83. [NYT]