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July 29 2014

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2 posts tagged "Daiki Suzuki"

At Woolrich Woolen Mills, The Rough With The Smooth

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The torch has been passed at Woolrich Woolen Mills, not with a flame but with a parka. The old designer (Daiki Suzuki of Engineered Garments) and the new (Mark McNairy, formerly of J.Press and founder of the blogger-worshipped line Mark McNairy New Amsterdam) joined forces for an overcoat they called the Four Hands Parka, modeled on a vintage Woolrich model from the thirties originally designed for an Arctic expedition.

That’s as good a guide as any to the hardiness that’s characterized the WWM brand since its founding—whether or not the soft-handed fashion types who buy it at stores like Barneys and Ron Herman will ever get near an ice cap. McNairy’s been building a reputation for himself as a premier reinterpreter of classic Americana, and his ace in the hole is the poppy irreverence he brings to the often worshipful, slightly humorless world of workwear wonkdom. So a found fabric with a geometric square motif—originally intended for blankets, most likely—becomes a hooded duffel coat; McNairy likened it to a digital camo pattern. Another duffel comes (sacré bleu!) striped. Bowties in tartan, camp pockets on a herringbone blazer, blocks of contrasting print on a button-down: McNairy mentioned mashing traditions, and it showed. He drew on Woolrich’s historic military wear, and also on its lesser-known Ivy League tradition. They found their joint avatar in John F. Kennedy, collegian turned navy man.

With Woolen Mills, Woolrich continues to do vintage smart: the rough stuff remade for the finer tastes. And speaking of those, check out the giant military tent (above) erected in one room of the presentation. It may look like the M*A*S*H mess hall, but it came stocked with local Milanese and Tuscan fare, carbon-footprint info included.

Photo: Tim Barber / Courtesy of Woolrich Woolen Mills

More Changeups In Fashion Land, Au Revoir To Louise, And More…

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The designer merry-go-round keeps on spinning. Much-missed Olivier Theyskens will design a capsule collection for Theory, and Christophe Lemaire, formerly of Lacoste, will take over for the departing Jean Paul Gaultier (pictured) at Hermès. [WWD; NYT]

Changes are brewing in the world of menswear, too. Daiki Suzuki, the Japanese-born designer of Engineered Garments, will step down as creative director of the Americana label Woolrich Woolen Mills; the blogger-adored Mark McNairy will take over there. [WWD]

Louise, we hardly knew ye. Louise J. Esterhazy, the alter ego of John Fairchild, will retire her society column in W under Stefano Tonchi’s new editorship. “Louise,” over the years, brought us such salty musings as “You could reply that’s frivolous in this troubled world, but do you really think dressing like an existential nun with suicidal thoughts is going to solve Bosnia?” [Page Six]

Helmut Lang alum and knitwear designer Tobias Wong of Wong Wong is teaming up with Happy Socks for a series of World Cup styles. Just another reason to get in the mood for the World Cup. [Racked]

And you’ve already seen Louis Vuitton’s London opening bacchanal through the eyes of Derek Blasberg; now see it through the eyes—er, eye—of monocular cartoon correspondent Darcel, of the great blog Darcel Disappoints. Keep your eye peeled for a cartoonified Peter Marino, too. [Nowness]

Photo: Kim Weston Arnold