24 posts tagged "Damien Hirst"
British label Mother of Pearl is getting back to its roots this season by joining London fashion week’s Fall ’14 calendar. Until now, the brand, which was founded by Maia Norman, has quietly presented its collections to press and buyers. And, considering MOP has steadily amassed a high-fashion following (it’s stocked by such luxury retailers as Moda Operandi and Net-a-Porter, as well as on Farfetch.com), that method has served Norman and her creative director, Amy Powney, well. But as their business continues to evolve, the pair wants to expand their audience.
“The brand is growing season after season, and we felt it was time to maintain the support of our current clients and customers whilst using the presentation to introduce the brand to those who are not yet familiar with Mother of Pearl,” Powney told Style.com. “We are hoping many national and international press and buyers will be able to view the collection up close and in detail for the first time. Simply being on the London schedule will introduce the name to new viewers.”
Powney hinted that MOP’s London debut on February 17 will offer “romance paired with clean lines and a hint of sport.” That sounds right in step with the artistic prints, playful embellishments, and bold color palettes that have come to define the brand. Norman has strong ties to the art world (it’s worth noting that she’s Damien Hirst’s ex-partner of twenty years), and each season MOP teams up with a contemporary artist to create its prints. Gary Hume, Mat Collishaw, and Jim Lambie are recent collaborators, so we’re anxious to see who’s been tapped this time around.
“You get picked for a building based on an image. The world runs on images,” said the architect David Chipperfield on Saturday, at Mexico City’s newly opened Museo Jumex. If Chipperfield—who won the commission to design the building in 2009—is correct, then Jumex’s inaugural weekend produced enough visual currency to run the whole of Mexico, if not the globe. A bienvenidos dinner in a tangerine-lit urban forest with the likes of Eva Longoria, Richard Buckley, and Stavros Niarchos; a whitewashed penthouse studio with a Damien Hirst cow’s head and a Richard Prince sex joke; and Mark Ronson’s two-hour deejay set, which was spun for thousands of partygoers in a purpose-built Studio 54-inspired Mayan temple, were just some of the event’s highlights.
Located in the municipality’s upscale Polanco neighborhood, Jumex will serve as a second home for the Colección Jumex—a contemporary art collection billed as Latin America’s largest, spearheaded by the Mexican beverage magnate Eugenio Lopez. With its serrated roof and sand-colored geometry, the building is completely captivating, and will function primarily as a gallery space to house curations from the Colección, as well as exhibitions by other artists. Jumex’s current headliner is a blockbuster show dubbed A Place in Two Dimensions, which features artists from the Colección such as Thomas Ruff, Jorge Pardo, and Francis Alÿs alongside a solo display by Fred Sandback, a sculptor best known for his tied-off strings fraught with tension and delicacy. Curator Patrick Charpenel explained, “We wanted to play with the idea of being on the verge of collapse.” It’s a provocative sentiment, though it may contain a layer of reverse subtext: Mexico City—particularly on the arts front—is in modern-renaissance mode and is poised to flourish as a major and permanent international cultural player. Though, after this weekend, we’re sure many would argue that its moment is already in full swing.
On November 15, Alexander McQueen will unveil a thirty-piece limited-edition collaboration with the artist Damien Hirst. The subject of the project? The brand’s most recognizable asset: the skull scarf.
The linkage between the house and Hirst celebrates the accessory’s ten-year anniversary–it first appeared on McQueen’s Spring ’03 runway. Blending the house’s signature cranium with Hirst’s Entomology series (think: Morpho butterflies, lunar moths, and scarabs), the results are kaleidoscopic in aesthetic yet elegant in tone. And the wares will look just as smart around the neck as they might behind framed glass. To accompany the launch, Sølve Sundsbø shot a short film that combines models draped in the silk scarves, a gritty ambiance, and harrowing piano to romantic effect. Catch the film’s debut below, exclusively on Style.com.
Starting at $515, the Alexander McQueen x Damien Hirst scarves will be available at Alexander McQueen stores worldwide and at www.alexandermcqueen.com.
The impressive second-quarter results posted recently by the Yoox Group, Italy’s e-commerce giant, was further proof that the future of high fashion lies online. But can CEO Federico Marchetti (left) work the same magic with fine art? It has been on his mind since he launched Yoox fourteen years ago. “I’ve always had the notion of the one-stop shop, with a mixture of modern and vintage, clothes and furniture,” he says. “The art component is the one that closes the circle.”
Marchetti tested the waters last October with Damien Hirst, Grayson Perry, and the first-ever edition by Italy’s top Pop artist Francesco Vezzoli. “He did it to help earthquake relief in Emilia-Romagna, where I’m from,” explains Marchetti. “We did an edition of 399 priced at 399 euros, dollars, or pounds.” Yoox is now providing corporate sponsorship for Vezzoli’s Trinity, a series of three exhibitions in three cities, the first in Rome now until November 24, the second opening at New York’s MoMA PS1 in the fall, and the third at the Museum of Contemporary Art in L.A. in early winter.
But any multimillion-dollar business can cough up sponsorship dollars. It was Padiglione Crepaccio (below), the much humbler Yoox initiative during the opening days of the Venice Biennale, which cast a more interesting light on Marchetti’s intentions in the art world. Curator Caroline Corbetta assembled work by ten Venetian artists under 30—the sort of creative types who are usually overlooked when the Biennale’s grand caravan rolls into town every two years—and exhibited the result in the house where three of them live. (A very nice piece of old Venice it was, too, calculated to make starving artists everywhere else in the world utterly puce with envy.) The twist was that the exhibition preview was online. “Like Saatchi, but in reverse,” says Marchetti. “Everyone else got to see it online before the art-world elite got there.” Which didn’t stop heavy hitters like Vezzoli, Diesel’s Renzo Rosso, and cherished art-world provocateur Maurizio Cattelan (a patron saint to young Italian artists) from showing up in person at the opening.
With his Acne jeans and his Lobb shoes, Marchetti is almost correct when he describes himself as the Yoox customer. And he was setting a good example by shopping for art at Padiglione Crepaccio. (In keeping with the initiative, it was only possible to buy the pieces on the iPads provided, even if you were standing right in front of the art and the artist). Right now, Marchetti is picturing art on Yoox as “something like a TV talent show, 99 percent talent, 1 percent the special X factor.” But going forward, he imagines people picking up “a pair of jeans and a painting” when they visit the site. “It’s part of the plan to make yoox.com a playful lifestyle,” he adds. “But playful in a serious way. It’s not the Amazon approach. We’re serious about collaboration.” Serious enough, in fact, to partner with the legendary photo agency Magnum—its first venture into e-commerce—and Hirst’s publishing company, Other Criteria.
But when Marchetti insists, “Surprise is the beauty of Yoox,” I flip back to the young artists in Venice, in particular a painter called Thomas Braida. With talent like his in the equation, people are going to be picking up way more than one painting with their pair of jeans.
Today, in art-meets-fashion news, Damien Hirst has teamed up with Alexander McQueen to design thirty limited-edition skull scarves in celebration of the accessory’s tenth anniversary. The wares are reportedly inspired by Hirst’s Entomology paintings, but knowing McQueen, a severed-cow’s-head print can’t be too far outside the realm of possibility.