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April 19 2014

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18 posts tagged "Damir Doma"

The Split-Second Preview: Damir Doma

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The Spring ’14 collections are under way in Paris, and before their new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire selection of Spring ’14 previews is availablehere.

Damir Doma Preview

WHO: Damir Doma

WHERE: Paris

WHEN: Wednesday, September 25

WHAT: “It’s a very graphic collection. I started with the idea of a plastic jungle, and it evolved into a story of shadow and perspectives.”—Damir Doma. The designer sent us a collage of his Spring ’14 inspiration images, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Damir Doma

Mykita Takes Manhattan

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Mykita's Manhattan store

Tonight, Berlin-based eyewear label Mykita will open its debut American outpost in New York City. But first it has to grapple with the Northeast’s heat wave. “We are trying to find a way to cool it down!” said creative director Moritz Krueger.

Krueger needn’t worry: Mykita’s modus operandi—from its product design to its retail formatting—is inviolably cool. “We conceived the store in-house. It comes from one hand; it’s very personal. We try to create our own world,” he explained. In New York, that universe is lent an industrial twist via stark white walls made of perforated steel beads, flight-trolley storage units, and a fluorescent lighting scheme that tracks the space’s original sprinkler system. Mykita Manhattan also boasts a special laboratory rendered in partnership with Carl Zeiss—one of the world’s leading optical research firms—in which clients may consult with on-site optometrists for bespoke frames and lenses. Continue Reading “Mykita Takes Manhattan” »

Pitti’s Plans

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Yesterday afternoon, Raffaello Napoleone, the CEO of Florence-based fashion fair Pitti Immagine, hosted a lunch at Il Cantinori—the much-loved Italian restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village. The purpose was to discuss the upcoming Pitti Uomo (June 18 to 21), Pitti W (June 18 to 21), and Pitti Bimbo (June 27 to 29). And while the fettuccine and branzino may have been old-school, Napoleone’s plans for this season’s fairs felt forward-thinking. Napoleone told Style.com that, in general, fashion fairs are not often, well, fashionable. Pitti aims to be the exception to this rule. “We try to do as much research as we can, because the Italian and international buyers need to see something new season after season. We have to offer them something that they cannot find easily on the map,” he explained.

Addressing the press and buyers in attendance, Napoleone highlighted Pitti Uomo’s and Pitti W’s guest designers—Japanese menswear label Kolor and Paris-based womenswear label Damir Doma—who will show on the evenings of June 20 and June 19, respectively. A focus has been placed on new designers from emerging markets, with six young talents from Korea and seven from Pitti Uomo’s guest nation, Turkey, slotted to present their latest wares. And Pitti’s Italics platform will lend its support to up-and-coming brands MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti, Aquazzura by Edgardo Osorio, and Stella Jean.

Other highlights include the debut of Tom Dixon’s project with Adidas; a new premium collection from G-Star Raw; an automobile collaboration between Italdesign Giugiaro, Cerruti, and the Woolmark company; and a fashion show for Andrea Pompilio’s collaborative range with Japanese sportswear label Onitsuka Tiger.

Napoleone conceded that Europe’s economic troubles have taken a toll. “More companies are suffering, and some of them decided not to exhibit,” he said, noting that about forty labels dropped out this season. But with about 1,010 participating brands, 370 of which are from outside Italy, visiting buyers and press will still have more than enough on their plates.

Photo: Yannis Valmos/ GoRunway.com

Pitti Party: Damir Doma and Kolor to Guest Star in Florence

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Damir Doma and Japanese label Kolor (designed by Junichi Abe) and are headed to Florence. Today, WWD announced that Doma (left) will head to the Spring 2014 Pitti W fair as its guest womenswear designer, while Kolor will feature at Pitti Uomo as the guest menswear designer. Last season’s visiting talents—Kenzo and Maison Kitsuné—will be hard acts to follow, what with the former’s food-market fashion show and the latter’s retro music spectacular. The Spring 2014 fairs are slotted to run from June 18 to June 21.

Three’s A Trend: Dead Girls Walking

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Perhaps all those vampire films and zombie shows (The Walking Dead, anyone?) are finally taking their sartorial toll, because things are getting downright ghoulish on the Fall ’13 runways. It all started in London when Giles Deacon sent out models with white hair and morbid makeup in his Pre-Raphaelite gowns. Kristen McMenamy (above, center), who bookended the show in fluid black and white frocks, was particularly spectral as she glided down the catwalk, and Deacon’s location—the seventeenth-century Stationers’ Hall, which is just down the road from Saint Paul’s Cathedral—seemed ripe for haunting.

Set in a nineteenth-century hôtel particulier, Damir Doma’s Fall show (above, left) also had an underworld air. The models who donned his minimal black, gray and moss looks had powdered faces and eerie gold-shadowed eyes. Not surprisingly, however, the most macabre of them all was Gareth Pugh (above, right). The designer presented his architectural, largely black and white collection in Paris’ nineteenth-century Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild last night. (For an extra-creepy kick, he boarded up the windows to make the grand space look like some kind of decadent haunted house.) Pugh’s models, who had deathly pale faces and blackened eyes, roamed the runway with a disheveled unease. Was it spooky? Definitely. But the undead never looked so good.

Photos: Filippo Fior and Yannis Valmos / InDigital/ GoRunway