15 posts tagged "Damir Doma"
When in Paris, fashion lovers know where to find Comme des Garçons: It’s discreetly tucked away inside a courtyard at 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. As of this week, it has company, a first flagship by fellow conceptualist Damir Doma, opposite. Doma couldn’t be happier about his neighbors or the space in general—a light-filled triplex with a massive marble stairway by Australian architect Rodney Eggleston (who is also the hand behind the beauty brand Aesop). “I love how he can take a single material and tell a whole story,” Doma said. “Everyone is doing minimalism now, but I didn’t want a minimal space, I wanted to translate my clothes into architecture.” To that end, walls are left raw and the marble unpolished. The only real shine emanates from the designer’s gold-treated jackets themselves, a ceiling in hand-crafted verdigris tiles, and, on a fine day, natural light. There’s a mix of men’s and women’s fashions on every floor, and Doma intends to keep it that way. “I like to bring opposites together,” he said, “and the great thing is that when you have your own home you can do whatever you want.” Standing on the second floor (his favorite spot), Doma noted that now that the men’s shows are over and the housewarming is winding down, he’s looking forward to really using the space to move the brand in new directions—the top-floor lounge is the place to check out exclusive collaborations and products (scarves and a limited-edition perfume are in the works).
France’s Chambre Syndicale, the body that organizes Paris’ fashion shows, has announced its newest members and associates. Congrats to Azzaro, Carven, Damir Doma, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Thimister, Véronique Leroy, and American (sometimes) in Paris Zac Posen. [WWD]
Dolce & Gabbana have found their ideal poster boy (literally) in David Gandy, who’s starred in many of the label’s menswear campaigns and runway shows. They’re now cementing their affection for the British-born model with a new book dedicated only to pictures of him—the first they’ve ever done focusing on a single model. [Vogue U.K.]
Next up for the Standard: its own airline. André Balazs’ do-no-wrong hotel group has launched its own mini plane service, StndAIR, offering flights to the Hamptons in a plane painted the Standard’s own cherry red. Here’s hoping for a liftoff from the Boom Boom. [W]
And Lindsay Lohan takes on her latest role: art star? The troubled actress gets in front of the lens for a short film—the first—by artist Richard Phillips, who’s no stranger to celebrity portraiture. [T]
The German artist Robert Knoke has worked in all media and covered most every theme, but he’s got a special affinity for the world of fashion—he’s collaborated on collections, exhibited in stores like Seven New York, and shown up in the pages of i-D and Purple Fashion. With a résumé like that, no surprise he’s picked up a few friends in chic places, many of whom appear—in portrait, at least—in his new tome, Project 00—Black Material, which arrives in New York with a party, of course, just after fashion week concludes. (Call it fashionably late.) Olivier Zahm, Patti Smith, Marc Jacobs, Terence Koh, and Leigh Lezark (pictured) are only a few of the bold names who sat for Knoke’s black-and-white portraits, which are collected in the first in his series of multimedia art books. Of course, no good multimedia-ist is content to rest between two covers, so the project comes along with Knoke-designed T-shirts, too—screened with his portraits of Damir Doma, Koh, the MisShapes, Gareth Pugh, and DJ Spencer Product, and available in limited editions of 500 at Seven, Oak, Colette, 10 Corso Como, and Isetan.
As the creative director and buyer for the online menswear retailer Oki-Ni, John Skelton was well aware that more than a few women were shopping for dude’s duds on his site. Now he’s applying that unisex sensibility to his new store. LN-CC—which stands for Late Night Chameleon Cafe—launches online early next week with a mix of fashion-forward menswear from the likes of Raf Simons and Rick Owens, cult Japanese brands including Wacko Maria, and up-and-comers such as specs-maker Illesteva. Ladies’ goods include clothing from Preen and jewelry from Lara Bohinc and Mawi. So far, so good—and Skelton has gone unisex one better by asking several of the menswear brands he’s stocking to make versions of their apparel and accessories in women’s sizes and fits. (A few of the women’s labels at LN-CC will be returning the favor.) “We didn’t want to get into anything girly,” Skelton explains. “There’s a certain sensibility at work here, that a certain kind of woman appreciates, and we’re staying true to that.”
Meanwhile, the LN-CC e-commerce site is only the tip of the iceberg. Skelton and partner Dan Mitchell are knee-deep in construction on the 5,000-square-foot Late Night Chameleon Cafe store in East London, an appointment-only space that is being designed in collaboration with set designer Gary Card and which will host a library curated by Donlon Books owner Conor Donlon and a wide-ranging selection of music titles. The shop is due to open in October. “We really felt strongly that we didn’t want this to be a place people just wandered in and out of,” Skelton explains, when asked about the decision to make Late Night Chameleon Cafe open only by appointment. “We want this to be a destination, a place people come to with a sense of purpose, and where they spend some time, and engage.”
A selection from LN-CC’s wares, styled by John Skelton: jacket by Rick Owens, shirt by Damir Doma, trousers by SILENT by Damir Doma, necklace by Lara Bohinc.
Damir Doma’s capelike jackets and voluminous pants have attracted a zealous following of free-spirited men who refuse to be poured into skinny jeans. So when the Croatia-born, Germany-raised menswear designer announced he was launching a women’s collection for Fall, curiosity reached a fever pitch. Who is the Doma woman and will she, too, reject the lean and narrow? On the whole, she did. “I’m a special case,” explained the soft-spoken designer. “I like sensitive men, but I always think of women as strong, proud, and structured.” (It could be because Doma’s mother is herself a designer with her own factory, where his collection is produced.) His debut women’s show last night brought the fashion crowd all the way over to a high school library in Paris’ academic Left Bank. The setting fit the look: black platform sandals worn with ankle socks, wire-rim spectacles, supersized sarouel pants, and cocoon coats. They were cut to flatter—if not always in the most expected ways. “I love beautiful arms and shoulders,” Doma said, “but after the casting for this show, I found that a good knee is the hardest thing to find.”