19 posts tagged "Damir Doma"
Perhaps all those vampire films and zombie shows (The Walking Dead, anyone?) are finally taking their sartorial toll, because things are getting downright ghoulish on the Fall ’13 runways. It all started in London when Giles Deacon sent out models with white hair and morbid makeup in his Pre-Raphaelite gowns. Kristen McMenamy (above, center), who bookended the show in fluid black and white frocks, was particularly spectral as she glided down the catwalk, and Deacon’s location—the seventeenth-century Stationers’ Hall, which is just down the road from Saint Paul’s Cathedral—seemed ripe for haunting.
Set in a nineteenth-century hôtel particulier, Damir Doma’s Fall show (above, left) also had an underworld air. The models who donned his minimal black, gray and moss looks had powdered faces and eerie gold-shadowed eyes. Not surprisingly, however, the most macabre of them all was Gareth Pugh (above, right). The designer presented his architectural, largely black and white collection in Paris’ nineteenth-century Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild last night. (For an extra-creepy kick, he boarded up the windows to make the grand space look like some kind of decadent haunted house.) Pugh’s models, who had deathly pale faces and blackened eyes, roamed the runway with a disheveled unease. Was it spooky? Definitely. But the undead never looked so good.
Milan is notoriously regarded as a difficult city for new models. But it’s not hard to see why big-name labels like Versace and Gucci prefer to cast established catwalkers like Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss, and Karmen Pedaru: Veterans simply know how to carry sexy clothes. That said, many of the rookies we’ve had our eyes on since the beginning of the season have proven that they can strut toe-to-toe with the big girls. Chiharu Okunugi, Sam Rollinson, Sasha Luss, and Katya Riabinkina, in particular, seem to be at the top of most casting directors’ lists this season. We’re also going to add Manuela Frey, a Spring ’13 Saint Laurent exclusive who opened Calvin Klein in New York and did turns at Dolce & Gabbana, Bottega Veneta, and Emilio Pucci in Italy. She’s kept up the momentum so far in Paris, with appearances at Dries Van Noten, Rochas, and Damir Doma.
Perhaps the best way to evaluate Milan’s crop of newcomers is to compare two of the week’s most hyped shows: Prada, which is cast by Ashley Brokaw, and Jil Sander, which is cast by Maida & Rami. Both are characteristically chock-full of unknowns, but there was more of an overlap than usual this season. Girls who walked both include past Balenciaga exclusives Juliane Gruner and Kirstin Kragh Liljegren (who actually opened Balenciaga last season). At Prada, they were sandwiched in between well-known faces such as Mariacarla Boscono, Liisa Winkler, Adriana Lima, Kirsten Owen, Jessica Stam, Iselin Steiro, and Esther de Jong (easily one of our favorite casts thus far), as well as a few more novices like Maartje Verhoef (above, left), Elise Smidt, and Jessa Brown, who also did Sander. As we move into the Paris shows, we’ll have our eyes peeled for these girls and a few others, including Amanda Murphy (above, right), who bookended Prada after opening Proenza Schouler, and then followed that up with appearances at Dries Van Noten and H&M today.
Speaking of, H&M turned out a cast of heavy hitters (you can chalk that up to a mega-budget and George Cortina’s styling), including Arizona Muse, Cara Delevingne, Daphne Groeneveld, Delfine Bafort, Edita Vilkeviciute, Isabeli Fontana, Joan Smalls, and closer Malgosia Bela.
The Fall ’13 womenswear collections draw to a close next week in Paris. Prior to the last shows, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion watchers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: Damir Doma
WHEN: Wednesday, February 27
WHAT: “The collection looks sideways back to the Belle Époque, but with that clash of the industrial revolution—something hard with something soft.” —Damir Doma. The designer, who will be showing in a nineteenth-century hôtel particulier, sent us a few of his Fall ’13 inspiration images, above.
Up-and-coming designer Damir Doma had a strong showing on the Paris runway yesterday—what Style.com’s Nicole Phelps called his “click moment.” Paired with those smartly tailored pantsuits and sleeveless shifts were these über-cool circular frames, made in collaboration with eyewear brand Mykita (the label has just come off a collab with musician Beth Ditto). “This particular shape perfectly rounds up the Damir Doma look,” the designer says of the sunglasses made from gold, platinum, graphite, and horn (which explains the price tag—they start at $1,700 and they’re available on Mkyita.com in February). “From the very beginning, our aim was to translate the traditional shape into something modern and create an iconic object.” Here, Style.com has the up-close look at the shades.
When in Paris, fashion lovers know where to find Comme des Garçons: It’s discreetly tucked away inside a courtyard at 54 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. As of this week, it has company, a first flagship by fellow conceptualist Damir Doma, opposite. Doma couldn’t be happier about his neighbors or the space in general—a light-filled triplex with a massive marble stairway by Australian architect Rodney Eggleston (who is also the hand behind the beauty brand Aesop). “I love how he can take a single material and tell a whole story,” Doma said. “Everyone is doing minimalism now, but I didn’t want a minimal space, I wanted to translate my clothes into architecture.” To that end, walls are left raw and the marble unpolished. The only real shine emanates from the designer’s gold-treated jackets themselves, a ceiling in hand-crafted verdigris tiles, and, on a fine day, natural light. There’s a mix of men’s and women’s fashions on every floor, and Doma intends to keep it that way. “I like to bring opposites together,” he said, “and the great thing is that when you have your own home you can do whatever you want.” Standing on the second floor (his favorite spot), Doma noted that now that the men’s shows are over and the housewarming is winding down, he’s looking forward to really using the space to move the brand in new directions—the top-floor lounge is the place to check out exclusive collaborations and products (scarves and a limited-edition perfume are in the works).