8 posts tagged "Dao-Yi Chow"
Following its 2014 CFDA victory, it was perhaps no surprise that fledgling brand Public School, helmed by Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, were selected as the regional finalists for the inaugural International Woolmark Prize for menswear. As soon as editors and insiders walked into Milk Studios’ penthouse last night, where the regional womenswear winner, M.Patmos, was also announced, it was easy to see which 100 percent merino wool ensemble the duo had turned out for the competition. Their gray high-necked hoodie and shorts look, crafted from boiled, felted wool and trimmed with bonded rubber, was the epitome of the brand’s street-meets-luxury menswear aesthetic. “We were up to our ears in wool!” laughed Chow when asked about creating the outfit. “We wanted to base it on the idea that wool is really the oldest fiber used by humans. We wanted to make something that was timeless and that could be worn in this lost civilization that was between ancient times and a postapocalyptic world.” Menswear judge Alexander Wang (a “formidable debate partner,” according to fellow judge and presenter David Granger, the editor in chief of Esquire) told us that he was looking for someone who had a “unique point of view. [The designers had to] fully understand who [they're] speaking to, what [their] brand is about, and where [they] want to take it.” No doubt, Public School ticked all the boxes. Osborne and Chow will now go on to design a six-piece wool collection, which will be presented when they compete against finalists from Europe, Asia, Australia, and India and the Middle East in London in January of next year. And they feel confident about their chances for taking the $95,000 final prize. “I think we’re cool because we’ve really thought out the six looks,” said Chow. “It’s going to be really sick if we can develop it in the way we conceptualized it.”
The womenswear winner, who along with the menswear champions took home $47,000, was less of a sure thing—and the competition, which included Rosie Assoulin, Jonathan Simkhai, Nonoo, and Whit, was stiff. But given M.Patmos designer Marcia Patmos’ experience with knits (she used to design them for Lutz & Patmos), firm understanding of her customer, and standout wool getup, this award was, in retrospect, hers to lose. “I was thinking about a woman who was traveling, and she’s possibly going to lose her luggage,” Patmos told us. “She’s going to many countries in different climates, and what she’s wearing has to get her through all situations,” she added of her look, which featured seamless knitting, double-faced tailoring, a vegetable dye painting technique, and hand-knitting. The end result comprised a crisp cream-and-tan overcoat, ribbed stirrup leggings, cropped gray trousers, and a simple sweater dress. Indeed, Patmos’ model looked as though she was ready for anything.
Patmos is more excited than nervous about the 2015 finals in Beijing. And the designer revealed that she’ll be collaborating with artist Ryan McGinness on her upcoming Spring ’15 collection. “We’re doing something really good!” she beamed. We’re looking forward to it.
Three cheers for Joseph Altuzarra! The talent won Womenswear Designer of the Year, the top honor at the CFDA Awards, which just wrapped at Alice Tully Hall. Altuzarra, who secured an investment from Kering last year, had some stiff competition in fellow nominees Alexander Wang and Marc Jacobs, but we’d have to say the honor is much deserved. Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow won Menswear Designer of the Year, beating out Thom Browne and Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, and The Row’s Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen took the Accessories Designer of the Year accolade, triumphing over Alexander Wang and Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough.
The third time was a charm for Creatures of the Wind’s Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters, who won the Swarovski Award for Womenswear after being nominated in 2012 and 2013—bravo, boys! And to round things out, Tim Coppens and Irene Neuwirth earned the Swarovski Award for Menswear and Accessories respectively. The big winners were in good company, and shared the stage with such honorees as Tom Ford, Raf Simons, and a crystal-clad Rihanna. As host John Waters put it, “Fashion is power.” Tonight’s celebrated designers and icons certainly have a lot of it. Congratulations to this year’s victors and honorees, all of whom are listed below. Don’t forget to check out our complete coverage of the CFDA Awards, here.
WOMENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Joseph Altuzarra for Altuzarra
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow for Public School
ACCESSORIES DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Mary-Kate Olsen and Ashley Olsen for The Row
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR WOMENSWEAR
Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters for Creatures of the Wind
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR MENSWEAR
SWAROVSKI AWARD FOR ACCESSORIES
GEOFFREY BEENE LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD
Raf Simons for Christian Dior
FASHION ICON OF THE YEAR AWARD
THE MEDIA AWARD IN HONOR OF EUGENIA SHEPPARD
THE FOUNDER’S AWARD IN HONOR OF ELEANOR LAMBERT
BOARD OF DIRECTORS’ TRIBUTE
Public School is coming to a mall near you. 2013 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award winners Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne debut their J.Crew capsule collection today, alongside those from runners-up Juan Carlos Obando and Marc Alary. The trio of labels will enjoy mass-market exposure like CVFF honorees Pamela Love and The Elder Statesmen did before them.
The three decidedly disparate brands’ offerings are tied together by a theme that’s fittingly all-American for J.Crew’s customer: indigo. Per the Public School boys, “We spun that into looking at staple items that we would want the women in our lives to have.” The resulting wares fairly brim over with their brand of sporty, utilitarian cool, from tailored sweatpants to a color-blocked chambray shirt—pieces that bode well for their fledgling womenswear range. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Obando has given his after-hours opulence a daytime spin inspired by Barcelona—think tiered, flouncy skirts and a pussy-bow blouse. The former “really set the mood for the other pieces,” says Obando. Marc Alary interpreted his delicate, naturalistic baubles with help from a winged friend—and the Polar Vortex. “The theme was indigo, the color,” said the designer, “but when I did my research, I found a bird called the Indigo Bunting, which I found very cute, since my collection is strongly animal-inspired. [It] migrates and only arrives with the spring. We had such a terrible winter that it really resonated with me.”
Public School, Juan Carlos Obando, and Marc Alary’s collections are currently available for preorder on jcrew.com and will hit stores on June 16. Select pieces from the capsule appear above, and the designers’ sketches for the capsule debut here, exclusively on Style.com.
The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has announced the ten talents that it’s sending to the Americans in Paris showroom next week, and the list is filled with many of the bold-faced up-and-comers you’d expect. New York darlings Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of Public School made the cut, as well as Ryan Lobo and Ramon Martin of Tome, Misha Nonoo, Wes Gordon, Jennifer Fisher, The Elder Statesman’s Greg Chait, Marc Alary, Richard Chai, George Esquivel, and Juan Carlos Obando. We have no doubts that these hometown up-and-comers will be able to wow the international fashion set.