2 posts tagged "Day Birger et Mikkelsen"
Even with the promise of champagne, 8 a.m. is an early call time for the last day of fashion week. But that didn’t stop editors from flocking to Day Birger et Mikkelsen‘s Copenhagen flagship for an early-morning presentation. While show-goers enjoyed a tasty brunch, models wove through the room in tweed coats, wrap dresses, pencil skirts, fluffy sweaters and tiger-print pants. Casual suits and beaded jackets were also Fall features and showed off the brand’s signature fusion of intricate craftsmanship and simplicity.
After more than thirty years on the fashion scene, Ivan Grundahl is not exactly a new kid on the block. Even so, his Fall ’13 felt youthful, and even a little rock ’n’ roll. Asymmetrical lines, architectural shapes, and uneven silhouettes are Grundahl’s signatures—all of which were present during Friday’s show. The collection (above) offered lots of heavy boots, loose trousers, and sweaters in dark prints, black, and army green. Large pockets and lace were used as accents, and balloon-shaped dresses and sequined skirts provided hints of femininity.
Stine Riis, the winner of last year’s H&M Design Award, closed out Copenhagen fashion week with her collection, RIIS. For Fall ’13, she continued her love affair with clean dressing and discreet details, showing tailored trousers and narrow pencil skirts mixed with silk shirts and wool outerwear. A gray jacket was one of the best pieces in the show, and cutout patent leather details on skirts and tops were a nice contrast to the modern minimalism.
Tonight at around 11 p.m.—so they say, but my money’s on midnight or later—a handful of Denmark’s best designers present a runway show of a few looks from their Fall collections for the revelers celebrating VMan‘s Scandinavian issue at Good Units. VMan‘s Stephen Gan sees big things in Scandinavia’s fashion future, I’m told, and has called in a few friends to make his case. But if late-night conditions aren’t favorable for a clear-eyed assessment (or for any editor with a husband, kid, or early bedtime), the group all gathered yesterday for a preview event and to meet the press.
Some names are familiar to U.S. buyers: Cheap Monday; Camilla Stærk, who shows at New York fashion week; and Henrik Vibskov, who shows men’s in Paris and a co-ed, and-the-kitchen-sink extravaganza in Copenhagen (last season’s included donkeys). But a few lesser-known Danish brands deserve their due. Day Birger et Mikkelsen, the lower-priced daywear line originally founded by Malene Birger, was covetable, especially at its reasonable prices. The men’s brand Soulland, whose hybrid cap/hat topper should replace the porkpie on every scruffy dude east of Avenue A, had great high-low pieces—I couldn’t take my hands off a varsity jacket with mink sleeves, even if it’s probably a little precious to wear anywhere near a game. And the flame-haired Stine Goya, an alum of Central Saint Martins, showed separates with a strong tailored streak. Her twining, cabled Snake sweater (pictured) is a best seller, she told me, and should look just as good with her wool or linen-silk wide-leg trousers as with your oldest weather-beaten jeans.