11 posts tagged "Dazed + Confused"
Last October, British stylist Charlotte Stockdale announced she was leaving her post at i-D, a pillar of British street and underground fashion, and joining Garage magazine as its fashion director. The über-cool stylist’s first efforts for Dasha Zhukova’s biannual art and fashion mag were unveiled today, when issue six hit newsstands. Garage gave us an exclusive first look at its Nick Knight-lensed covers (above), which feature Karlie Kloss and Cara Delevingne. As evidenced by Garage‘s new snaps, Stockdale can seamlessly transition between high-gloss and grit—a skill that no doubt came in handy during her stints at Dazed & Confused and Harper’s Bazaar, and while styling shows for the likes of Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi. She’s worked with Karl Lagerfeld on the latter’s runway looks and campaigns for the last five years. Here, Style.com caught up with Stockdale to talk about the state of British fashion, leaving i-D, and her vision for Garage.
What drew you to Garage?
Everything about it. I remember the first issue coming out and thinking it was something different, courageous, seriously beautiful, and sometimes quite shocking. It’s not safe and it’s incredibly sophisticated. I talked on and off with Dasha about shooting for her, but it never worked because I was too busy with i-D. Then we met for tea after the summer—I was quite relaxed from holiday—and she said she was looking into a fashion director, and obviously that evolved into a conversation.
Did you feel that i-D was no longer those things—courageous, shocking, and beautiful? Is that why you left?
No, that’s not why I left. Not in the slightest. I enjoy conceptual fashion, and there isn’t a lot of space left for it anymore. Garage is a venue where conceptual fashion is still the right thing. When I started at Dazed & Confused at the beginning, conceptual fashion was the thing. I like exploring it on multilayers, not just mixing jackets and trousers for a good picture.
And how does that translate in terms of your vision for this magazine?
I would like to keep a delicate mix of sophisticated and playful. Humor is very important, but it can’t be silly, and beauty is really important. The art content is serious. I don’t mean serious in a way that it is not amusing. Some of it is very amusing, but they put in heavyweights. The fashion needs to balance that out. I love working with the stylish photographers and new photographers and new designers. So far, most of them are saying “yes.”
On the subject of new designers, who are you particularly excited about right now in London?
It sounds awfully predictable to say, but I am very interested in J.W. Anderson and Christopher Kane. London right now has finally hit its stride. There’s Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, etc., and they have all found this balance between creativity and the business, which are equally important. That wasn’t so much the case when I was young. Some succeeded and others didn’t—the balance wasn’t correct. I have seen so much talent leave Britain and move to other cities. We have always felt it was such a shame that these kids aren’t back at home building proper brands themselves.
How do you think this momentum with London fashion will progress in the next few seasons?
I think the momentum will continue. With Natalie Massenet at the helm of British Fashion Council, everything has stepped up a few notches. Obviously, she is a lady of no fear. These young designers all have solid bases, and they are building proper businesses. The month is a very crowded month, and it is pretty challenging for [fashion] people like ourselves. London used to be a three-day thing and you could miss it. Now it’s a solid five-day event full of high-class content. It is the most interesting fashion week aside from Paris.
The campaign for Jefferson Hack’s third Tod’s No_Code capsule footwear collection is all about East London attitude. But his new short, Invocations, was shot during a Mexican escape. “I did this on my winter vacation…[to] provide an alternative point of view to the campaign,” the Dazed & Confused editor told Style.com. The Super 8 film stars a self-styled Tati Cotliar, who took aesthetic inspiration from Hack’s range of suede and leather kicks. “I think she was in a Diane Keaton-meets-Wes Anderson Boy Scout mood,” said Hack, noting that the Asymmetric Oxfords she’s wearing are among his favorite pieces in the range. “It’s really personal,” added Hack of the film. “It’s about travel (of course!) and this cool girl escaping [from] the heat of the city…to this place which is full of color and optimism and daydreaming.” Set to the music of Alfonso Lovo, a Nicaraguan guitar player from the sixties, the short, which debuts exclusively above, definitely emits a vintage oasis vibe—one that’s sure to speak to the No_Code man and woman, or, as Hack calls them, “stylishly minded mavericks.”
They’ve got the face, the body, a portfolio full of ad campaigns and editorials shot by top photographers in the industry, and a runway roster to match. But with our new “Model-Slash” feature, Style.com profiles girls whose ambitions and drive extend beyond the catwalk.
Growing up with a rock ‘n’ roll father, four musician sisters, and a name that was seemingly predestined to be in the limelight, 25-year-old Harmony Boucher (pictured) became the lead singer of her first band in elementary school, and has been a consummate frontwoman ever since. Boucher, who is the face of London-based electro-pop act Vuvuvultures, has also been recognized in the model set for her androgynous appeal. Since she started modeling about a year ago, Boucher has been typecast as the edgy tomboy, appearing in editorials for publications including Dazed & Confused, i-D, Garage, and AnOther magazine (she’s not as destined for the runway—she’s only 5’8″). “They want my certain look,” Boucher told Style.com over the phone. “They’re like, ‘Oh my God. You look like a girl who looks like a boy,’ and I’ve heard that since I was nine years old so I’m kind of numb to it now.”
Vuvuvultures (think riot grrls for the Internet generation), earned a buzz on the East London underground scene with music videos like “I’ll Cut You” and “Pills Week.” The band formed in 2009 when Boucher followed girlfriend and bassist Nicole to a rehearsal, and ended up singing on a few of the tracks they were recording that day with producer Paul Ressel (also the keyboardist in the band). The group instantly clicked and began touring as Bunny Come, but Boucher explained they eventually outgrew that name. “The music we were doing before was a bit more dance-y and high-energy, and what we’re doing now is a bit darker, so we started going by Vuvuvultures.” After releasing their debut EP VVV earlier this year, Boucher and company have been busy working on a full-length album, “gigging” in East London, and putting on a DIY warehouse party called The Island, where Vuvuvultures and other like-minded artists perform weekly. Boucher admits that she lives for her time onstage: “Performing is an escape from the real world and you just get to be mental,” she said. “When I sing is one of the only times I don’t have to think about anything but what I’m doing, being in the moment.” However, she’s discovered that modeling definitely has its benefits, too. “I’ve learned how to use my body better and am more aware of how I look onstage.”
With her dreamy gaze, swanlike neck, and flowing tresses, Codie Young looks like something out of a Renaissance painting, but her watercolors have an altogether different, almost grotesque beauty about them. The 19-year-old Aussie model had her breakthrough runway season just over a year ago, and has been busy ever since. In addition to appearing in Jil Sander Navy’s latest Fall ads, Young also landed the new Marc Jacobs Dot fragrance campaign, which is “the biggest success in my career so far,” she told Style.com. She’s proven herself to be a formidable force in editorials, too, with recent spreads in Vogue Japan, 10 Magazine, and Dazed & Confused, among others. Young particularly liked working with photographer Daniel Jackson on the conceptual Dazed one (left). “It was inspired by fashion illustrator Rene Gruau’s drawings, and as a painter myself, I really appreciated that,” she said. “I prefer editorials that have an interesting story or are kind of creepy.”
Young was crouching over canvases with a palette and brushes long before she ever set foot on a runway. “Painting is something I’ve always done since my childhood and studied in school,” she said. “At one point, I nearly failed my classes because I only painted what I wanted to, instead of meeting requirements.” She loves portrait painting even though, she says, “I’m actually not a people person at all. I’m kind of shy and socially awkward, so instead of talking, I’ll stare and observe faces. But I’m also fascinated with backbones, which we were given to stand strong and ribcages that protect our fragile hearts.” Earlier this month, Young completed a portrait of a Kayan Lahwi tribal woman that took her twelve hours over the course of three days. But generally, because she’s rushing around from one modeling job to another, she focuses on small-scale projects that she can knock off in two or three hours. “Even though I’m very busy, I always make the effort to keep putting out art because I think it’s important to have something aside from your job to be passionate about—otherwise it can get to your head,” Young says. “Art is my escape.” She recently moved to the East End of London but avoided Olympics mania by ducking out of town for a family vacation before the onslaught of fashion week in September. Here, one of Young’s works. To learn more about the model, follow her personal blog.
Alber Elbaz Decks The Claridge’s Halls, The Vatican Doesn’t Like Benetton’s New “Unhate” Campaign, Rankin Debuts A New Magazine, And More…
John Galliano designed the Claridge’s Christmas tree for the past two years, but this year, Alber Elbaz has taken over the job. The tree will be decked “with marionettes wearing Elbaz’s take on Claridge’s staff uniforms.” The tree will be on display at the London hotel from November 22 through January 22. [WWD]
United Colors of Benetton’s new “Unhate” campaign has reportedly been condemned by the Vatican. The ad campaign features images of various political and religious groups locking lips. One image even shows Benedict XVI kissing Egyptian imam Ahmed Mohamed El-Tayeb. [Telegraph]
Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2012 sample collection was stolen yesterday in London. WWD reports today, however, that not all is lost. Apparently, “thieves made off with some ready-to-wear and accessories, but not the entire assortment,” and “Jacobs is said to have duplicates for many of the looks.” [WWD]
Dazed & Confused and Another magazine founder Rankin launched a new biannual fashion and lifestyle magazine today. Hunger‘s debut issue has one cover featuring Sky Ferreira and another featuring actor Rhys Ifans. Inside, you will find features with the likes of Heidi Klum, Cheryl Cole, Hayley Atwell, and more. [Dazed Digital]