8 posts tagged "Delpozo"
Princess Letizia—i.e., Spain’s answer to Kate Middleton—is going to become queen. The news anchor-turned-royal wed Prince Felipe de Borbon ten years ago, and now that the latter’s father has abdicated the throne, she’ll be getting the crown along with her dashing prince.
The press has dubbed Princess Letizia, 41, one of “Europe’s most glamorous royals.” Sure, she’s drop-dead gorgeous, impossibly elegant, and is blessed with a winning smile, but why are these royals always so afraid to inject a little fun into their wardrobes? The soon-to-be queen seems to favor lacy frocks, mauve hues, and pantsuits, which is all good and fine, but they don’t do her justice. Somebody get this woman in some Delpozo (let’s hear it for nationalism!), Céline, or Alaïa after she takes the throne—something with a little pizzazz! Even if it’s the quiet, sophisticated kind.
And since we’re on the topic, it would be lovely if Kate Middleton could discover her sartorially adventurous side, too. Never has a vibrant Jonathan Saunders coat looked so sad as it did on Ms. Middleton in Scotland last week. Come on, ladies. We appreciate that it’s not so easy being queen, but cheer up! Or at least prescribe your closet a little Prozac.
News broke yesterday afternoon that Indre Rockefeller, one of the first original employees of e-tailer Moda Operandi, is leaving her current post as the GMM and trunk show creative director at the online retailer and joining Madrid-based luxury brand Delpozo as its U.S. president. Rockefeller, who was formerly the assistant to Anna Wintour and has a business degree from Stanford, was one of designer Josep Font’s earliest supporters when he took the creative helm and helped relaunch the historic Spanish house in 2012. “It’s really an organic extension of a long-term relationship,” she told Style.com of the new gig. “I’ve been working with Delpozo on the retail side for the last year and a half, so it came about quite naturally.” Moda Operandi was the range’s first international stockist and one of its biggest supporters. Rockefeller is a personal fan, too, frequently wearing Font’s impeccably crafted looks and even donning a Delpozo gown to last year’s Met gala.
Following the launch of its first stateside store in Miami last January, Delpozo, which shows its collections in New York, is planning a U.S. expansion. Rockefeller, with her vast industry connections, will help facilitate this. “I think that the quality and the craftsmanship and the design are there, and it’s time to take that and turn Delpozo into a globally recognized brand,” she explained. “It’s exciting for New York to have a couture-level brand showing. I think it’s different from what I’ve seen.”
Rockefeller is the fourth key player to leave Moda Operandi since it was launched by Lauren Santo Domingo in 2010. The e-tailer’s cofounder and CEO, Áslaug Magnúsdóttir, exited last May. Fashion director Roopal Patel decamped in 2012, and creative director Taylor Tomasi Hill resigned last fall. “I think it’s a coincidence,” Rockefeller said of the quartet of departures. “I had a wonderful relationship with Moda Operandi, and it’s definitely going to be a nostalgic departure, so for me, it’s really about an opportunity that presented itself that I couldn’t say no to,” she offered. “What excited me about Delpozo is that not only do I feel personally connected to them, but I’ve been there since the beginning. I think they’re really poised for success, and I believe in Josep as a creative director. All the ingredients are all there—it’s just about taking it to the next level, and that’s a really exciting time to grow with the brand.” So will we be getting a Delpozo boutique here in New York anytime soon? ” I would love to see a Delpozo store in New York. I think it would work really well here,” Rockefeller told us. Fingers crossed.
Delpozo isn’t the only revived Spanish label that turned heads during New York fashion week. Pedro del Hierro Madrid, too, made a strong showing during its sophomore presentation. Founded in 1974 by its namesake couturier, the house is currently owned by Cortefiel, which relaunched the brand’s luxury collection in 2013. With veteran designer Carmen March at its creative helm, Pedro del Hierro Madrid is aiming to break into the U.S. market this year.
March has a penchant for infusing a touch of Spanish history into her collections, and Fall ’14 was no exception. “I was inspired by a novel called Nada, which means ‘nothing’ in Spanish,” explained March, who hails from Majorca. “It was written in the forties and is about a woman who arrives in a new city after a horrible time, and how excited she is about her new beginning.”
March’s postwar inspiration resulted in a collection filled with rich textures, structured silhouettes, and pops of color. One look—a sculpted A-line black-and-white tweed skirt paired with matching knee-high boots and a chunky sweater—recalled an abstract Christopher Wool painting. And its proportions tricked the eye; it was almost as if the boots were growing out of the ensemble’s sweeping hem. Other standouts included a mustard-and-black-check full-length vest, shown with matching trousers, boots, and a black leather blouse, as well as a black haircalf sweater with dark plaid sleeves worn atop skinny black trousers.
The volume here was key—not only did it make for bold, interesting shapes, but it also had a strong link to March’s Fall concept. “In forties Spain, you had a lot of people down on the street with borrowed clothes that were slightly too big. I wanted to create that sensation with the silhouette,” March said.
But where were her optimistic Fall woman’s more celebratory wares? Those came in the form of a latex-coated lace jumpsuit, a bright green one-piece, and a violet trousers-and-blouse combo. The latter two were covered in graphic malachite prints. Less obviously cheery was a layered gray tweed suit that comprised a cropped bolero jacket, a fitted waistcoat, and an asymmetrical skirt. The woman wearing that isn’t headed to a party—she’s marching out to take her new life by storm.
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Delpozo, designed by Josep Font
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Sunday, February 9
WHAT: “Inspired by the lyrical abstraction work of the artist Duilio Barnabè, and a futuristic retro aesthetic based on the novel Logan’s Run.” —Josep Font. The designer sent us a glimpse at one of his Fall ’14 looks, above.
Josep Font is single-handedly reviving Spain’s fashion legacy. Two years ago, Font assumed the design helm at Delpozo, where he has successfully modernized Jesús del Pozo’s vision and introduced the historic house to an international audience. Font made an impressive New York fashion week debut with a standout Fall ’13 show that highlighted his unique style of “prêt-a-couture.” The range was quickly picked up by major retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Opening Ceremony, Moda Operandi, and Net-a-Porter. On the heels of that initial success, Delpozo opened its premiere flagship in Madrid last spring, and is now expanding into the U.S. market with its first stateside store in Miami’s Design District, slated to open on February 20. An image of the new space debuts exclusively here.
Font was involved in every step of planning both boutiques—down to choosing the layout, furniture, materials, music, lighting, and even the aromas for each. In fact, Font originally studied architecture in university at the behest of his parents, then launched his namesake ready-to-wear line upon graduation, which had been his true aspiration all along. Similar to the larger Madrid location, Delpozo’s new, 672-square-foot shop strikes an elegant balance between starkness and warmth, and is composed of glass, brass, marble, and organic wood elements. Bronze display cases present Font’s intricate, fairy-tale-worthy confections like precious jewels, while spare midcentury furniture and pale pink walls add a slight retro feel to the space. In the throes of designing his Fall ’14 collection, which will hit the runway in New York on February 9, Font spoke to Style.com (with the help of a translator) about the evolution of the brand, his outlook on luxury, and the forthcoming collection.
On Jesús del Pozo: “I had followed Del Pozo growing up. When I entered the company, I remained with the same team that Jesus had. I’ve felt very supported there and am pleased with the quality of work there. One thing is certain: Jesus and I have similar work ethics and methods, and a similar type of woman in mind.”
On Delpozo’s couture-level craftsmanship: “We are catering to a new luxury market. We’re not competing on a global level with houses like Chanel or Dior, but instead we’re targeting specific customers who want that kind of attention to detail in the sewing, the embroideries, the patterns. Our most expensive, special pieces have been our best sellers.”
On his Fall ’14 collection: “The outside appearance is streamlined and structured, but the inside of each garment is very complicated. My idea is to keep tightening and cleaning it up along the way. All of our new embroideries are done in-house, and we’re using precise colors—nudes, light blue, mustard, and crudo—that take a long time to process. For a while, everything was out on the table, on the verge of exploding, but we know that the result will be a good one.”
On what inspires him: “I try to inspire myself through my everyday life. I’m an avid reader. I like theater. I like the opera, and I really like the countryside. I have a house in the countryside that I enjoy very much.”
Delpozo’s new store, located at 35 NE 40th Street, Suite 100, Miami, FL (305-573-1009), will open to the public on February 20. For more information, visit www.delpozo.com.