6 posts tagged "Delpozo"
Delpozo isn’t the only revived Spanish label that turned heads during New York fashion week. Pedro del Hierro Madrid, too, made a strong showing during its sophomore presentation. Founded in 1974 by its namesake couturier, the house is currently owned by Cortefiel, which relaunched the brand’s luxury collection in 2013. With veteran designer Carmen March at its creative helm, Pedro del Hierro Madrid is aiming to break into the U.S. market this year.
March has a penchant for infusing a touch of Spanish history into her collections, and Fall ’14 was no exception. “I was inspired by a novel called Nada, which means ‘nothing’ in Spanish,” explained March, who hails from Majorca. “It was written in the forties and is about a woman who arrives in a new city after a horrible time, and how excited she is about her new beginning.”
March’s postwar inspiration resulted in a collection filled with rich textures, structured silhouettes, and pops of color. One look—a sculpted A-line black-and-white tweed skirt paired with matching knee-high boots and a chunky sweater—recalled an abstract Christopher Wool painting. And its proportions tricked the eye; it was almost as if the boots were growing out of the ensemble’s sweeping hem. Other standouts included a mustard-and-black-check full-length vest, shown with matching trousers, boots, and a black leather blouse, as well as a black haircalf sweater with dark plaid sleeves worn atop skinny black trousers.
The volume here was key—not only did it make for bold, interesting shapes, but it also had a strong link to March’s Fall concept. “In forties Spain, you had a lot of people down on the street with borrowed clothes that were slightly too big. I wanted to create that sensation with the silhouette,” March said.
But where were her optimistic Fall woman’s more celebratory wares? Those came in the form of a latex-coated lace jumpsuit, a bright green one-piece, and a violet trousers-and-blouse combo. The latter two were covered in graphic malachite prints. Less obviously cheery was a layered gray tweed suit that comprised a cropped bolero jacket, a fitted waistcoat, and an asymmetrical skirt. The woman wearing that isn’t headed to a party—she’s marching out to take her new life by storm.
The Fall ’14 Ready-to-Wear collections are under way in New York, and will be followed by the shows in London, Milan, and Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Delpozo, designed by Josep Font
WHERE: New York
WHEN: Sunday, February 9
WHAT: “Inspired by the lyrical abstraction work of the artist Duilio Barnabè, and a futuristic retro aesthetic based on the novel Logan’s Run.” —Josep Font. The designer sent us a glimpse at one of his Fall ’14 looks, above.
Josep Font is single-handedly reviving Spain’s fashion legacy. Two years ago, Font assumed the design helm at Delpozo, where he has successfully modernized Jesús del Pozo’s vision and introduced the historic house to an international audience. Font made an impressive New York fashion week debut with a standout Fall ’13 show that highlighted his unique style of “prêt-a-couture.” The range was quickly picked up by major retailers such as Harvey Nichols, Opening Ceremony, Moda Operandi, and Net-a-Porter. On the heels of that initial success, Delpozo opened its premiere flagship in Madrid last spring, and is now expanding into the U.S. market with its first stateside store in Miami’s Design District, slated to open on February 20. An image of the new space debuts exclusively here.
Font was involved in every step of planning both boutiques—down to choosing the layout, furniture, materials, music, lighting, and even the aromas for each. In fact, Font originally studied architecture in university at the behest of his parents, then launched his namesake ready-to-wear line upon graduation, which had been his true aspiration all along. Similar to the larger Madrid location, Delpozo’s new, 672-square-foot shop strikes an elegant balance between starkness and warmth, and is composed of glass, brass, marble, and organic wood elements. Bronze display cases present Font’s intricate, fairy-tale-worthy confections like precious jewels, while spare midcentury furniture and pale pink walls add a slight retro feel to the space. In the throes of designing his Fall ’14 collection, which will hit the runway in New York on February 9, Font spoke to Style.com (with the help of a translator) about the evolution of the brand, his outlook on luxury, and the forthcoming collection.
On Jesús del Pozo: “I had followed Del Pozo growing up. When I entered the company, I remained with the same team that Jesus had. I’ve felt very supported there and am pleased with the quality of work there. One thing is certain: Jesus and I have similar work ethics and methods, and a similar type of woman in mind.”
On Delpozo’s couture-level craftsmanship: “We are catering to a new luxury market. We’re not competing on a global level with houses like Chanel or Dior, but instead we’re targeting specific customers who want that kind of attention to detail in the sewing, the embroideries, the patterns. Our most expensive, special pieces have been our best sellers.”
On his Fall ’14 collection: “The outside appearance is streamlined and structured, but the inside of each garment is very complicated. My idea is to keep tightening and cleaning it up along the way. All of our new embroideries are done in-house, and we’re using precise colors—nudes, light blue, mustard, and crudo—that take a long time to process. For a while, everything was out on the table, on the verge of exploding, but we know that the result will be a good one.”
On what inspires him: “I try to inspire myself through my everyday life. I’m an avid reader. I like theater. I like the opera, and I really like the countryside. I have a house in the countryside that I enjoy very much.”
Delpozo’s new store, located at 35 NE 40th Street, Suite 100, Miami, FL (305-573-1009), will open to the public on February 20. For more information, visit www.delpozo.com.
Gingham typically stirs up feelings of nostalgia, but lately designers are doing their part to modernize the classic checks. Derek Lam opened his Spring show with eight crisply tailored, crosshatched looks; Delpozo creative director Josep Font paired the graphic pattern with cheerful sunflowers; and Olivier Rousteing put his signature glam spin on the trend at Balmain with plaid bomber jackets and kicky skirts accompanied by chunky chain jewelry. As seen on the 3.1 Phillip Lim and Mark McNairy New Amsterdam menswear runways, buffalo-plaid pieces have been earning style points with the guys, too. Meanwhile, model off duty Marine Deleeuw looked like Lolita incarnate in her sweet pink-and-white shirtdress, and we spotted plenty of gingham items from Prada’s cinematic Fall ’13 collection in the streets. As Isaac Mizrahi told Style.com a few years ago at a Resort presentation, “Gingham is like a solid with a lot of personality.” Agreed.