August 22 2014

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8 posts tagged "Derek Blasberg"

A Showstopping Sister Act


“I’m sad because three designers didn’t win,” said Giovanna Battaglia on Saturday evening at the Beverly Hills Hotel, where the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize Grand Final was taking place. She and her fellow judges, including Georgina Chapman, Keren Craig, Francisco Costa, Elizabeth Saltzman, and Derek Blasberg, evaluated four up-and-comers (Anndra Neen, Giulietta, Julian Louie, and Siki Im) based on one last fashion show, walked by America’s Next Top Model contestants.

As guests including Tracy Ross and Cameron Silver mingled in the Rodeo Ballroom, the panel deliberated for the mere 15 minutes allotted before announcing the winner, Anndra Neen, by the sister design duo Phoebe and Annette Stephens. The jewelry and accessories collection, inspired by their Mexican art world upbringing, is characterized by large, almost armor-evocative statement pieces in mixed metals, including skeletal corset belts. Sympathetic as Battaglia was to the designers of the other three lines, she voted for Anndra Neen. “I’ve loved them since the beginning,” she said. “I photographed their pieces years ago.” For Costa, the decision was a tricky one. “Ultimately, it was a question of longevity,” he said. “Anndra Neen seems to have a great business sense and of course, beautiful product.”

Photo: Michael Kovac / Getty Images

The New Kids On The Block: The Dorchester 2011 Semifinalists


To make a star, or perpetuate one? That was the question the judges of this year’s Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize asked themselves as they deliberated over a list of 77 contending designers at New York’s Le Bernardin on Wednesday afternoon. After two hours of discussion, this year’s panel of judges, which included Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa (pictured, right), Thom Browne, Marchesa’s Keren Craig, Giovanna Battaglia, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Derek Blasberg, Shala Monroque, and Lauren Santo Domingo, had whittled the list down to five names in a miraculously seamless manner.

“Let me tell you, last year it was not that easy—there was definitely shouting,” said Bronwyn Cosgrave of the panel she assembled last year. (The group included the likes of Manolo Blahnik and Daphne Guinness, and gave the top prize to Thomas Tait.) “I’m excited by this year’s list because at the end of the day, I started this project to help young designers get their name out there and to support them.” That mission became a clear group initiative after judges repeatedly brought up familiar names like Cushnie et Ochs, Ohne Titel, and Jen Kao, and then eventually removed them from the running for the $40,000 prize and the opportunity to show during Paris Fashion Week. Instead, the group chose lesser-known names like jewelry label Anndra Neen, Sofia Sizzi’s womenswear line, Giulietta, Siki Im (pictured, left), and Setareh Mohtarez (an unknown who judges repeatedly mentioned for the beautiful sculptural work). The only debatable exception to the rule was the fifth finalist: Julian Louie. “He interned for me at Calvin and he’s extremely talented,” Costa said of the designer. In addition to working with Costa, he’s received guidance from Santo Domingo, and recently finished a shoe collaboration with Aldo. The winner will be announced in late October.

Photo: Mark Von Holden/ Getty Images

Shala Monroque On Thomas Tait: “A Cross Between Celine And Vintage Balenciaga”


“Those outfits would have been great for someone for the Met ball,” Shala Monroque said as she eyed Thomas Tait’s collection, which stood on display last night at the Palace Hotel. “It feels like a cross between Celine and vintage Balenciaga.”

Tait won the first Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize last year, awarded by a panel that included Manolo Blahnik, Stephen Jones, and Daphne Guinness. Monroque—who we wouldn’t be surprised to see stepping out in one of Tait’s two-tone multi-pleated leather skirts—is one of the judges for this year’s competition. Joining her on the panel (and at last night’s event) were some of her fellow jurors, Giovanna Battaglia, Francisco Costa, Thom Browne, and Derek Blasberg.

The designer who takes the prize this year has a lot to live up to. Tait’s modern, sleek aesthetic was the talk of the evening, inviting comparisons with designers like Costa. The Calvin Klein Collection creative director himself admitted as much. “I am so very impressed and excited by such young talent,” Costa marveled. “You don’t see this often.”

Canadian-born Tait remained modest. “I just want to be happy and keep my hands in the work that I’m doing as I expand my business,” he said, sipping the namesake cocktail Belvedere created for the occasion, an electric blue blueberry concoction. Expanding is what he’s doing, both with his own collection and a new leather capsule range with retailer ASOS. “It’s nice to be reaching an audience that might be familiar with my work, but they might not be able to afford it,” he told

Photo: Mark Von Holden / Getty Images

He Shoots To Thrill


The new Fashion Loves collective, dedicated to bringing together fashion and art culture, declared its first love at the Bell House last night: photographer Hanuk Kim (pictured), better known—like Cher or Madonna—simply as Hanuk. Trained as a fashion designer, Hanuk dedicated himself to shooting the scene instead, and has made a career of being, it seems, everywhere and snapping, it seems, everyone—or so at least it seemed from his party last night, where the walls were lined with on-the-town photos starring many of the attendees. But that’s part of the fun. “Who doesn’t love looking at pictures of themselves?” murmured one partygoer (even if a few of the more mercilessly candid options may have had the sitters wishing for a real-life de-tag option). Despite the enormous number of photos Hanuk has taken over the years, the evening was his first public exhibition, hosted by friends (and, of course, subjects) like Fashion Loves’ Bozhena Orekhova, GQ‘s Damien Nunes, Prabal Gurung, and Derek Blasberg. It was charming to see the mirth in Hanuk’s eyes—pride, of course, though perhaps brightened by the Belvedere—as he flitted around the show, whirring camera in hand. (A lost memory card threatened to derail the evening’s documentation, but it was luckily recovered in an obscure corner of the basement.) Taking pictures of the crowd admiring pictures of the crowd? Welcome to the hall of mirrors, where it’s best not to overthink. How could you, really, when confronted with the infectious enthusiasm of the lensman himself? “Fa-a-bulous!” he tittered, literally jumping into the air after composing a particularly pleasing shot. Then he darted away to take another.

Photo: Marc Dimov / Patrick McMullan

Blasblog: A Busy Weekend In Manhattan


For many New Yorkers, myself included, weekends are sacred, a time to catch up on TiVo, devour mozzarella sticks, and, most of all, sleep. But this Saturday night left little time for social detoxing. First up was the Lady Gaga concert at Terminal 5 on 56th Street, which drew the likes of Steven Klein, Zac Posen, Cyndi Lauper—and, wait for it, Madonna. (I actually saw Madge pull up in the back—in a three-SUV caravan, by the way—with Lourdes in tow.) I can’t say I was a Gaga fan before, but when the girl came out blowing bubbles while wearing a dress made of bubbles to sit at a clear glass piano filled with bubbles and seriously belted out some musical numbers, I can say with some certainty I started to get the obsession. From there it was a race to Webster Hall to see the Kills concert. By the time I arrived, both Alison Mosshart and Jamie Hince were half covered in sweat. Afterward, I stuck around backstage—I’m not gonna lie here—to smoke cigarettes with Winona Ryder, Jessica Stam, and Alexa Chung, the last of whom explained that she had chopped her hair into a bob because she worried that if she moved to America she’d be tempted to get blow-outs for her MTV show, which debuts next month. Then it was on to Harry Josh and Nur Khan’s Spring Fling party at the Gramercy Park, which was a tabloid magazine come to life: Goldie Hawn, Kate Hudson, Jessica Alba, Elizabeth Banks, Kate Bosworth, etc. (Check back later for a party report.) And then, finally, I huffed it down to Tribeca to Stuart Parr’s marble palace for a party Carlos Mota was throwing for Giambattista Valli—I got there just in time to give an exiting Giamba my taxi. Still, I went in for one last cocktail with Margherita Missoni, Jen Brill, Adam Lippes, and Lauren Santo Domingo. Sean Avery came over at the last minute—but just to see the indoor swimming pool in the marble basement. Hey, a Valli dress might be impressive, but a swimming pool in Manhattan can make a girl swoon.

Photo: Billy Farrell / PatrickMcMullan