8 posts tagged "Diane Pernet"
Framed by the storied houses of alta moda, Alta Roma, Rome’s couture week, is always a feast of exhibitions, old-world craft, and rising stars. The four-day Fall ’14 spectacle, which wrapped this evening, offered up a Hans Feurer retrospective at the Roman palace La Pinacoteca del Tesoriere; a visit to the city’s Sartoria Farani, which has made costumes for Fellini, Pasolini, and Peter Brook; a fashion performance by Ludovica Amati in the rarely seen ruins below Rome’s Piazza Navona; and Bulgari’s presentation of the greatest hits from Diane Pernet’s A Shaded View on Fashion Film Festival, which was staged in Rome’s nearly 2,000-year-old Tempio di Adriano. If all this sounds like a nostalgia-inducing, Fellini-esque fashion circus, it was. But that’s not to say Rome didn’t highlight the new—it just took the most scenic route.
In fact, Alta Roma serves as a springboard for young designers. For instance, the six new talents who competed for Italy’s Who Is On Next prize last season returned to Rome to present their Fall ’14 collections. The winner of that competition, Austrian-born, Milan-based designer Arthur Arbesser (above, left), unveiled a fresh Fall ’14 range of checkerboard knits, transparent shirts, simple jackets, sweatshirts, and shorts.
Alta Roma afforded Arbesser not only a platform to present his Fall vision (which was inspired by “Joy Division’s Ian Curtis, London’s street edginess, Memphis design, and the straight lines of Vatican tailoring”) but also an opportunity to meet his idol, 83-year-old couturier Roberto Capucci, who came backstage to congratulate him postshow. “I was a child when the Kunsthistorisches, Vienna’s art history museum, showed Capucci’s pieces with armor and gowns from the Hapsburg Imperial family,” said Arbesser. “Seeing that convinced me to study fashion.” Continue Reading “At Alta Roma, It’s in With the Old, and the New” »
If Paris has an answer to Williamsburg, it would be the area around the Rue Lucien Sampaix in the 10th arrondissement. The neighborhood’s epicenter is the Tuck Shop, the retro-chic vegetarian eatery and gourmet coffee bar opened last year by a trio of hip Australian girls: Anna Rice, Stella Rice, and Rain Laurent. Last night they added “art gallery” to their roster as they feted an impromptu first show by a fellow Aussie, Leo Greenfield, who’s been hanging around Paris since fashion week and working on what he calls “observational illustration.”
“I’m interested in the language of drawing. I look at [my work] as social portraits combined with journalism,” the artist said, surveying walls lined with breezy drawings of Haider Ackermann, Diane Pernet, and Alber Elbaz. Greenfield sketched these from memory after Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton’s recent Eternity Dress performance. Pretty good access for someone who showed up in Paris cold a couple of years back and just happened to benefit from the kindness of strangers, like Damir Doma and Joel Arthur Rosenthal.
Asked what impressed him the most about the Spring shows, Greenfield replied, “Comme des Garçons for its graphic impact. And at Haider Ackermann I saw colors I had never seen before, and it was all so fast I couldn’t draw it!” In any case, all indications point to Greenfield closing in on his dream life as an artist in residence: He has just wrapped a weeklong stint in Martin Grant’s atelier. “It was amazing,” the artist said. “He’s all about minimalism without losing luxury.”
This weekend, the legendary Diane Pernet—whose A Shaded View On Fashion is one of the original fashion blogs—unveiled the third edition of her fashion-film festival, A Shaded View On Fashion Film. This year, she’s brought on a co-judge, Tavi Gevinson (left, with Pernet), one of the most followed fashion bloggers of the moment. The winners have been named—visit A Shaded View On Fashion Film for more—but all the films from the competition screen for the public tomorrow at the Centre Pompidou. For the festival weekend, Style.com sat down with Pernet and Gevinson to talk fashion, film, and just where the whole blog thing may go.
How did you two first come together?
Diane Pernet: I was invited to participate in a blogging conference last March. Tavi was participating in one section and me in another. I told the organizer that I wanted to meet Tavi because I wanted to propose something to her. We met. She was charming. It was very brief.
Tavi Gevinson: I remember being in total awe of her hat and knowing I was meeting a true character.
The competition is for fashion films. Tell me a little about them—do you see them as their own separate art form?
DP: There are no rules for fashion film, as it is a new genre. That said, if we think of fashion films as any film where fashion plays a major role, then we can say that under that heading fashion films have been around since the time of silent movies. G. W. Pabst’s Pandora’s Box in 1929 with Louise Brooks, William Klein’s 1966 Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo?, Luis Bunuel’s 1967 Belle du Jour with Catherine Deneuve, and short fashion films by Guy Bourdin all show the impact that fashion and cinema can ignite. Continue Reading “Diane Pernet And Tavi Take The Shaded View Of Fashion Film” »
The one fault New York gallery types might have with this week’s art offerings is the sheer abundance of them. Should one put off the Biennial to better take in the Armory Show? Dodge the crowds and check out Volta or Pulse? Heed your accountant’s warnings and skip the weekend entirely? Last night at Quality Meats, A Shaded View on Fashion‘s Diane Pernet made a case for none of the above. The veiled blogger was tapped to curate SCOPE Markt, a fashion-focused satellite of Scope’s larger art fair, opening tomorrow at Lincoln Center.
Pernet found wearing the curator hat—in addition, of course, to her customary black habit—quite natural. “The whole idea of blurring boundaries between fashion, art, and film is perfectly my world,” Pernet said before dinner. Hand-selected from Pernet’s wide network of artist and designer friends, Markt’s exhibitors are an international lot. Bosnian-by-way-of-Sweden designer Lamija Suljevic’s ornately embellished old-world handicrafts will be on display next to a film starring the Graces, Undercover designer Jun Takahashi’s handmade dolls. “They’re these strange-looking sci-fi figures,” Pernet explained, adding that the humble Takahashi reintroduces himself to her every year at the Comme des Garçons show. Pernet was equally humble when pressed about fashion blogging, a medium she might as well have invented. “I think I was one of the first fashion blogs,” she demurred, admitting that she loves hearing from fellow bloggers—like Susie Bubble’s Susie Lau—that she was the reason they started their blog. “I know how it works,” she said of the Web. “I, personally, like the fresh approach.”
Scope Markt opens to the public tomorrow through Monday at Lincoln Center Damrosch Park. For more information, visit www.scope-art.com.
The ASVOFF (A Shaded View on Fashion Film) festival awards ceremony, the final event to cap off four weeks of collections, played to a packed house last night at the Centre Pompidou. Founder Diane Pernet awarded the first ASVOFF/Samsung prize of €3,000 ($4,417) to filmmaker Georgie Greville for her spoof on model castings, entitled I Wanna Be Your Dog. (That’s a still from the short pictured above.) “What Diane is doing is a sign of what’s to come in the future,” said jury president Rick Owens, who also starred in a Nick Knight piece. “Who knows where it will lead, but this is a pioneering event for fashion lovers.” Sound words considering this season’s number of live-streamed shows and Knight’s highly successful (almost too much so) collaboration with Alexander McQueen. As Pernet greeted guests like Gareth Pugh, Rad Hourani, and Hannah Marshall, she noted the event would likely move to the front of Paris fashion week for next year’s edition.