2 posts tagged "Dice Kayek"
At the still-young Istanbul fashion week, which just completed its third season, the signs of an international fashion week seemed to be in place. Old shows (Chanel’s Spring ’10 hayride, for one) were playing on the hotel television. From the abbreviated crews of American, Italian, French, and British editors and retailers, you could easily pick out Anna Piaggi, Patricia Field, Susie Bubble, Satine’s Jeannie Lee, and Olivier Zahm. Even the absent Bryanboy wistfully tweeted that he’d like to be in the mix.
The runway offered up a mixed bag. There were the cartoony club clothes of Gunseli Turkay and the crafty futuristic eveningwear of Arzu Kaprol, an established designer with boutiques across the country. Central Saint Martins grad and Londoner Bora Aksu created a special collection just for the week, a parade of pretty pieces in nudes and pales with lingerie details inspired by a 100-year-old Istanbul shop called Butterfly Corset. But for his Spring ’11 collection, you’ll have to head to London, where he’ll show alongside countryman Hakaan Yildirim, who nabbed this year’s ANDAM prize.
“The inspiration is very literal, but it’s a first step,” said Los Angeles boutique owner Des Kohan. “The government is really positive, and there’s great buzz.” Kohan saw the pervading influence of Turkish Cypriot Hussein Chalayan, whose retrospective Hussein Chalayan: 1994-2010 is showing at Istanbul’s Museum of Modern Art. (It runs through October 24.) Chalayan, though, shows in Paris, as does another major Turkish export, Dice Kayek, the subject of a concurrent show at the museum called Istanbul/Contrast. And at a dinner for the latter label’s designer Ece Ege on the rooftop of the Marmara Pera hotel, Zahm (pictured with Ege, above) admitted the city inspired him more than the shows. “It’s the first time I’m here professionally. Istanbul has great energy; it’s like New York,” he said, before snapping pictures of the spectacular view. Truthfully, the week seemed to be more about discovering that than anything else.
The invite read Istanbul/Constant, a hint that Turkish-born, but Paris-based designer Ece Ege was going back to her roots for Dice Kayek’s couture Black Label collection. (She also does a ready-to-wear Pink Label.) But Spring 2010 wasn’t kitschy fare of Grand Bazaar-inspired Ottoman patterns. Kayek took a more abstract approach. “I was inspired by my city. And it was all the little things that reminded me of it,” she explained at yesterday’s presentation at the plush Ritz Bar on Rue Cambon. Ege showed off a black dress of fine lace with a fitted bodice and double-hooped skirt. “See, it’s the shape of a Turkish lamp,” she said. While the palette was generally understated in muted tones of blush, taupe and classic black, the heavyweight silks lent an air of the luxury. Cleverly, the designer used the slightly stiff textile to add structure to draping including a voluminous bustle on the skirt of a L.B.D. and a short cocktail dress in the palest of pinks that crossed the body in sumptuous folds. Alas, with such fineries, it only made sense that prices hovered more in the modern sultan range: All items are special-order only.