93 posts tagged "Dior"
Before Raf Simons was a fashion designer, he was a furniture designer—and also, curiously enough, a ceramics collector. Now, ninety-nine pieces from Simons’ trove of French ceramics dating from the fifties through the seventies are set to go up for auction. This group is the focus of a sale run by the relatively young but influential Paris auction house Piasa. In its sale catalog, Piasa describes five vases by Pol Chambost (above) from the Simons collection as “a perfect fusion between utilitarian objects and works of art.” The works notably informed the designer’s Fall 2009 outing for Jil Sander. “Conveying the curves of his ceramics in fabric was a real challenge,” Simons said of the collection. “Chambost’s work is extremely feminine, and doubtless closer to Dior in a way. People always speak of his ‘floral’ pieces, which, to me, evoke Christian Dior’s Femmes Fleurs.” Other highlights include a biomorphic vase-sculpture by Valentine Schlegel, a group of seven colorful cylinder vases, a coffee table, and Bottle and Apple vases by Georges Jouve. As for why Simons is parting with his ceramic treasures, which he has acquired over the past fifteen years, he offered, “I’m a designer, and for me things are always evolving, and such evolution is necessary. Just because they are being sold does not mean these pieces will be lost, or that I am no longer excited by great French ceramicists. Yes, of course, I’m sorry to see them go. But I’m happy to turn toward different pieces and new horizons.” For a mere 1,000 to 40,000 euros, you too can collect haute pottery when Simons’ ceramics go under the hammer on December 17.
How would you like a little Coco Chanel for Christmas? Or a mini Mlle Lanvin? For its eleventh Les Frimousses initiative, UNICEF has tapped forty-two fashion houses—Chanel, Dior, Lanvin, and Anne Valérie Hash among them—to craft high fashion dolls, reports WWD. The toys will be exhibited at the Petit Palais in Paris from November 26 to December 1, before being put up for auction at the George V hotel on December 2. Last year, the bidding for each designer doll began at $647, which we know is a little steep. But considering the proceeds go to charity (and that, decked out in a Chanel suit and Lanvin’s “Love” necklace, they’re arguably better dressed than we are), the one-of-a-kind creations are worth the price tag.
Olivier Saillard—author, poet, star fashion curator—tends to prefer a contemplative moment over a grand event. He is also fond of saying that, had he ever studied fashion design, he would have done “just one dress” and then retired his tape measure.
Last night in Paris, he offered both. Eternity Dress, a fifty-one-minute performance starring Tilda Swinton, sponsored by Chloé, and staged at the École des Beaux-Arts this week as part of the city’s fall festival, has been sold out for months. In it, Saillard and Swinton explore the art of dressmaking, starting with lines and measurements (waist: 28 inches, and so forth) working up through flat patterns and the beginnings of a dress, which Swinton took a moment to sew on herself. As the dress took form, Swinton recited a litany of collar styles in French and released a world of emotion in the turn of a sleeve, finally draping herself in rich-hued chiffon and velvet unfurled from bolts lined up on the floor.
Ultimately, The Dress—a black sheath with long sleeves and an open back—was a stand-in for a century of fashion history, from Paul Poiret to Comme des Garçons. One of the show’s high points, as well as its biggest laugh, showed Swinton striking a series of emblematic poses for houses from Poiret to Yohji Yamamoto, by way of Chanel, Dior, Mugler, YSL, and Jean Paul Gaultier. Among a roomful of designers including Gaultier, Christian Lacroix, Bouchra Jarrar, Martine Sitbon, and Clare Waight Keller, Haider Ackermann was first on his feet for the ovation. “It’s absolutely a piece of my life,” said Waight Keller. “They’ve taken everyday materials like tape and chalk and elevated them to an art form about designing a dress from scratch. It’s about craft, measuring, and a considered approach. It’s poetry.”
“One of the things about Tilda is that she can do anything,” noted Saillard after the performance. “She’s not a ‘fashion girl,’ so she can be a sculpture, an actress, a woman, a man, she can be 18 or 75 years old. It was like we were in a bubble, and the experience gave us lots of new ideas. Fashion has to be surprising.”
At the small cocktail party held afterward at Lapérouse, Swinton added, “Olivier is a playmate. We work and play together and come up with crackers ideas for some other time—it’s wonderful to be able to play off of someone like that.” Asked whether she realizes that she would be any designer’s dream to work with, Swinton let loose a small bombshell: “Maybe it’s because I know nothing about fashion!”