107 posts tagged "Dior"
Thirty-two-year-old Alexandre Mattiussi has been on our radar since launching Ami, his line of smart, approachable menswear, two years ago. And tomorrow, the Paris-based designer will celebrate a notable milestone: the opening of his first stand-alone boutique. A homey converted atelier in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement, Ami (which, you’ve no doubt noticed, is a play on the designer’s name as well as the French word for “friend”), fuses design elements Mattiussi holds dear, such as the parquet floors of a Parisian apartment and decor you’d find in a tailor’s workshop.
Mattiussi learned the ropes designing for houses like Dior, Givenchy, and Marc Jacobs, and his own line reflects his luxurious take on easy, masculine dressing. “I really wanted to do clothes that I could wear and afford,” explained the designer during a preview. “Ami is clothing for me and my friends. It’s not intimidating, it’s not too expensive, and it’s definitely not pretentious.”
On the racks (which he also designed) hang thick mustard and burgundy wool-alpaca sweaters, shirts in Japanese poplin, checked overcoats, and wool cashmere suits the designer calls “city but casual.” Like his clothes, the prices are “not intimidating,” too, starting at about $170 and hovering in the mid-three digits (although one of his sheep-lined denim jackets runs about $1,900). Also on offer are accessories like sleek brogues and floral-print baseball caps by the niche brand Larose (the first of several collaborative projects Ami has lined up). “I like the idea of a multifaceted collection,” says Mattiussi. “It’s not too conceptual or intellectual. It’s like soup: If all the ingredients are good and the result is good, we serve it up.”
Ami is located at 109 boulevard Beaumarchais, Paris, +33-9-83-27-65-28.
In which we track the way that certain fashion news stories are recycled around the Web.
Today’s secondhand news amounts to a sleeper hit for the Internet. That’s because the original story came out on Friday but didn’t really take off until today. Even recycling bloggers take the weekend off, it seems. It was on Friday that British Vogue kicked things off with a post touting an upcoming interview with Raf Simons in the magazine’s January issue. Employing a certain old-media discretion, the tone was straightforward:
— VOGUE.CO.UK (@BritishVogue) December 7, 2012
The first few recyclers of this item, Fashionologie, Papermag.com, Styleite, and Grazia, picked up on a quote from Simons about wanting to make Dior as efficiently branded as Chanel, a process that apparently starts with the nose.
“The Chanel woman? I don’t even need to see, I smell her from round the corner, but I don’t recognize the Dior… fb.me/1n8doBSkw
— FASHIONOLOGIE (@fashionologie) December 7, 2012
But it turns out, those outlets were burying the lede, because The Cut, perhaps with the benefit of the weekend to dream up a new angle, raised the ante with a tweet linking to a post from 10:43 a.m. It referenced a different part of the original Vogue U.K. post:
Raf Simons says Christian Dior wouldn’t have liked Galliano’s work. nym.ag/VuYpg8
— The Cut (@TheCut) December 10, 2012
Fashionista, playing catch-up, echoed in a tweet linking to a post from 2 p.m.:
Raf Simons can’t stop/won’t stop throwing shade John Galliano’s way: bit.ly/VMt9ir
— Fashionista.com (@Fashionista_com) December 10, 2012
Congratulations then to today’s clear winner in the secondhand news sweepstakes: The Cut.
Bonus points to Grazia, though, for tweeting the same story twice within a few hours, the second time in a slightly pithier and more twitter handle-alert manner:
— Grazia_Live (@Grazia_Live) December 10, 2012
— Grazia_Live (@Grazia_Live) December 10, 2012
Now we’ll just have to wait for the January issue of British Vogue to see what Simons really did or didn’t say about Galliano.
Halloween has come and gone, and Thanksgiving is barreling down the pike, which means that Christmas is mere minutes away—and with it, Christmas windows. Today, Dior announced that it has partnered with Paris’ Printemps department store to do the retailers’ annual holiday windows, which will pay tribute to the history of the house and its helmsmen, from Monsieur Dior himself to John Galliano to the newly installed Raf Simons. For 11 windows along the Boulevard Haussmann, Dior created 2-foot-tall dolls, each wearing an haute couture look from the house’s archive, recreated by the couture ateliers at 30 Avenue Montaigne (with a few stuffed male dancing partners in the mix, wearing Dior Homme). They range from the classic Bar jacket look (above) to Galliano’s flower-shop gown (below) from Fall ’10 to Simons’ debut collection for the house. The dolls themselves—74 will be created in all, and animated in the windows—are one-of-a-kind and not for sale, but an accompanying collection of holiday gifts including shoes, bags, scarves, timepieces, and even Dior snow globes will be sold. As part of one (above right), the Bar jacket can be yours after all—albeit under glass. The completed windows will be unveiled December 9 by Dior face Marion Cotillard.
The show of the week—in news value alone, probably the show of the season—was Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut for Dior. The new guy didn’t disappoint. Serenity and sex appeal, it turns out, are not mutually exclusive; nor are sex appeal and that endlessly freighted fashion word, “minimalism.” More on that to come, and from wiser heads than mine. (Here’s looking at you, Blanks.) I’ll just add to the discussion that I was quite taken with the paint-striped denim jacket Simons wore to take his bow, too. I am, admittedly, something of a jean jacket junkie; I’ve just come by my fourth (Junya, if you want to know). But I wondered aloud via Twitter what Simons might be wearing and the answer came back in minutes: Helmut Lang, ’96 vintage.
With the resurgence of minimalism—whatever it turns out to mean—via Simons and Jil Sander, Lang’s name has hung over the season like an open secret. Now a piece of his has made a physical appearance, too. I’ll leave it to others to tease out the influence of Lang on the current collection and on the Spring collections overall, whatever it may be or not be. Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, and sometimes a jean jacket is just a jean jacket. I’m focusing my attentions on a more pressing question: Where can I get one?
Jake Shortall is a model you don’t want to mess with. Before he was discovered at a nightclub earlier this year (which has its downsides: “I didn’t remember him when he called the next day,” he says of the agent who scouted him), Shortall was just an average 18-year-old Liverpudlian whose hobbies included stirring up trouble with his mates, listening to hip hop, and training in Muay Thai boxing. “It’s crazy because when I was 15, I thought I would never leave Liverpool,” he tells Style.com. “But I’ve only been home for one week in the past eight months.” During that time, the six-foot-two redhead has gone from striking, sparring, and kicking to walking top runways including Dior, Lanvin, Trussardi, Neil Barrett, and Kris Van Assche, among others. Shorthall has also racked up an impressive portfolio of editorials and campaigns. Catch him in the Steven Meisel-lensed “Prom Night” series in the April issue of Vogue Italia, on the current cover of Vogue Hommes Japan, and in the new Pringle of Scotland ads. (Despite being immersed in fashion now, he admits he has never really cared much for clothes and gives designer gifts away to his mom or friends.)
But long before life in the limelight, Shortall started boxing at age seven as a safeguard against playground bullies, and he eventually switched over to Muay Thai. “I was getting kind of bored with regular boxing and needed something new,” he says. Muay Thai is “mixed martial arts minus the jiu-jitsu part,” he says: where traditional boxers only use their two fists, Thai boxers have eight points of contact so you can punch, kick, jab, block, and strike with your knees and elbows as well. Needless to say, it can get pretty brutal. “I’ve broken three of my ribs, lots of fingers and toes,” Shortall says. He’s delivered the pain, too: “I definitely used one of the technical kicks in the streets once on this guy,” he says. “Wait, that’s going to sound so bad! It was totally unexpected and out of self defense.” His agency has banned him from boxing for the moment to preserve that money-making face, but he plans to return to it “sooner rather than later.”