119 posts tagged "Dior"
The show of the week—in news value alone, probably the show of the season—was Raf Simons’ ready-to-wear debut for Dior. The new guy didn’t disappoint. Serenity and sex appeal, it turns out, are not mutually exclusive; nor are sex appeal and that endlessly freighted fashion word, “minimalism.” More on that to come, and from wiser heads than mine. (Here’s looking at you, Blanks.) I’ll just add to the discussion that I was quite taken with the paint-striped denim jacket Simons wore to take his bow, too. I am, admittedly, something of a jean jacket junkie; I’ve just come by my fourth (Junya, if you want to know). But I wondered aloud via Twitter what Simons might be wearing and the answer came back in minutes: Helmut Lang, ’96 vintage.
With the resurgence of minimalism—whatever it turns out to mean—via Simons and Jil Sander, Lang’s name has hung over the season like an open secret. Now a piece of his has made a physical appearance, too. I’ll leave it to others to tease out the influence of Lang on the current collection and on the Spring collections overall, whatever it may be or not be. Sometimes a cigar is just a cigar, and sometimes a jean jacket is just a jean jacket. I’m focusing my attentions on a more pressing question: Where can I get one?
Jake Shortall is a model you don’t want to mess with. Before he was discovered at a nightclub earlier this year (which has its downsides: “I didn’t remember him when he called the next day,” he says of the agent who scouted him), Shortall was just an average 18-year-old Liverpudlian whose hobbies included stirring up trouble with his mates, listening to hip hop, and training in Muay Thai boxing. “It’s crazy because when I was 15, I thought I would never leave Liverpool,” he tells Style.com. “But I’ve only been home for one week in the past eight months.” During that time, the six-foot-two redhead has gone from striking, sparring, and kicking to walking top runways including Dior, Lanvin, Trussardi, Neil Barrett, and Kris Van Assche, among others. Shorthall has also racked up an impressive portfolio of editorials and campaigns. Catch him in the Steven Meisel-lensed “Prom Night” series in the April issue of Vogue Italia, on the current cover of Vogue Hommes Japan, and in the new Pringle of Scotland ads. (Despite being immersed in fashion now, he admits he has never really cared much for clothes and gives designer gifts away to his mom or friends.)
But long before life in the limelight, Shortall started boxing at age seven as a safeguard against playground bullies, and he eventually switched over to Muay Thai. “I was getting kind of bored with regular boxing and needed something new,” he says. Muay Thai is “mixed martial arts minus the jiu-jitsu part,” he says: where traditional boxers only use their two fists, Thai boxers have eight points of contact so you can punch, kick, jab, block, and strike with your knees and elbows as well. Needless to say, it can get pretty brutal. “I’ve broken three of my ribs, lots of fingers and toes,” Shortall says. He’s delivered the pain, too: “I definitely used one of the technical kicks in the streets once on this guy,” he says. “Wait, that’s going to sound so bad! It was totally unexpected and out of self defense.” His agency has banned him from boxing for the moment to preserve that money-making face, but he plans to return to it “sooner rather than later.”
Couture week isn’t only about clothes—as any couture buyer knows, the accessories count, too. The haute joaillerie labels of the Place Vendôme opened their doors to debut their new high jewelry collections, as Style.com’s Tina Isaac reports.
“In the 1950′s, Christian Dior styled couture gowns with costume jewelry that looked real—I just did the opposite,” said Dior jewelry designer Victoire de Castellane of her latest haute outing, Dear Dior (left). “It’s an exercise in style without going literal.” For the mounts, she recast in gold various lace motifs culled from the couture archives; her particular favorite is the Broderie Grenade Irisée ring in a spectrum of precious stones with a rare Welo fire opal blazing at the center.
Now that it has a high-jewelry flagship on the Place Vendôme, Louis Vuitton is rocketing the Monogram flower toward new frontiers of time and space with Voyage dans le Temps. The house signature gets pixelized, extrapolated, and reconfigured, for example, on a large cuff in diamonds and grand feu enamel. The pièce de résistance: a lace Peter Pan collar reworked as a supple necklace with diamonds reprising the Monogram motif and a front closure inspired by the hasps on a Vuitton trunk (below).
Speaking of stars, the Chanel galaxy is expanding rapidly—this summer will see the opening of an in-house jewelry atelier on the Place Vendôme—and in that spirit, the house erected a sizable planetarium of jewels atop the Musée Branly. It included a mix of the old (a diamond star brooch from 1932, a recently unearthed film of the original 1932 couture jewelry collection, this collection’s namesake, below) and the new (a giant tactile screen table—touch a jewel, read the archives). And, of course, a dazzling constellation of 80 new jeweled pieces, set in the round beneath a starry dome. Continue Reading “Star Power And More In Haute Joaillerie From Chanel, Dior, Van Cleef, Vuitton, And More” »
For many in fashion, L.A. is a full coast away from where the real action is. “Style in L.A. is sort of an oxymoron,” admits former L.A. Times writer and journalist Melissa Magsaysay. “It’s jeans and it’s T-shirts. But what’s wrong with that?” In hopes of changing the conversation surrounding style in the City of Angels, Magsaysay penned City of Style: Exploring Los Angeles Fashion, from Bohemian to Rock.
While following the contemporary market in L.A., the author realized that mass market brands were referencing L.A.’s ease and attitude as inspiration—without necessarily wanting to admit it. “No one will acknowledge it because it’s not Dior and Vuitton. But to me, it doesn’t have to be those labels and brands to be stylish, per se.” City of Style combines street-style photography with interviews with some of the city’s reigning tastemakers, ranging from Monique Lhuillier and Trina Turk to Phillip Lim and even Slash. Magsaysay makes the case for L.A.’s own native style archetypes, which need no reference to Paris prêt-à-porter or New York cool: its skaters, surfers, rockers, cholas, bohemians, and glamour-pusses of the old Hollywood screen-star mold. “They’re not trends but actual looks that came about from subcultures, music, and counterculture—what I think are inherent and totally unique to the city,” she says. They hint at an L.A. beyond the old jeans-and-tees cliches, and according to stylist/designers (and City of Style subjects) Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, they may prove more influential than many yet admit—even outside city limits. “In the past decade, L.A. has really come into its own in having a distinctive and relevant fashion sensibility,” the duo tells Style.com.
City of Style: Exploring Los Angeles Fashion, from Bohemian to Rock is available at Barnes and Noble May 22.