93 posts tagged "Dior"
Forgive us for saying that it seems like designers get together pre-season to discuss ways to flummox journalists: “Let’s do floral, let’s do neoprene, let’s do trapeze, and, to really freak them out, let’s all do it together.”
Fashion conspiracy theory? Probably not, but there is just a hint of truth in it. “I don’t think we pull out these uniform ideas from the ether just like that,” Maria Grachvogel told us backstage at her Spring ’14 show. “We all have our inspirations and references, and sometimes, it all just collides, then we telegraph messages to each other without meaning to. I guess it’s a controlled coincidence.” One of those coincidences this season is the skirt-pants combo. Raf Simons played with the look in his Resort ’14 collection for Dior, and now, London designers have rolled with that ball.
The style opened Osman Yousefzada’s Spring ’14 show. His iteration offered a beautiful white lace overlay (above, right). Simone Rocha produced a pair in a very hip, plasticized crochet (above, center), and Roksanda Ilincic crafted hers in an elegant stiff pleated silk gazar. Meanwhile, Grachvogel presented a dress-trousers hybrid in flowy, diaphanous silk (above, left). Such designers as Naeem Khan have also been up to bat, but being Indian, it should be all but instinctive for him. Said Yousefzada backstage, “It’s the classic kurta silhouette that’s been going on for centuries in India—it’s as ubiquitous as the sari. I can’t figure out why it has taken so long to catch on here.” After this season, we’re guessing that will change.
Luca Guadagnino—who became fashion’s favorite filmmaker after featuring Jil Sander by Raf Simons wares in his 2009 flick, I am Love (above)—has tapped Dior to costume his new movie, Body Art. Does that make Raf the body artist?
Count on Paris fashion week to end on a high note with a retrospective exhibition dedicated to the inventor of the stiletto heel: Roger Vivier. Set to open at the Palais de Tokyo on October 2, the show, dubbed Virgule, etc… in the Footsteps of Roger Vivier , will give viewers the chance to examine a comprehensive range of the late designer’s fancy footwork. Curated by the Musée Galliera’s Olivier Saillard, the exhibit will display 140 pairs of Vivier shoes—including his famous comma heel (or virgule in French, hence the title).
Vivier, who was once Dior’s star shoemaker, died in 1997, but his legacy lives on. Diego Della Valle revived the brand in 2000, and Bruno Frisoni has been creating dreamy, feminine wares for the house since 2002. His work, too, will be celebrated in the show.
Nothing says “alpha female” quite like two rows of buttons. Balenciaga, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Versace—we noticed a sharp uptick in double-breasted power suits in the Resort collections. More surprising, celebrities have taken to the look, too. Kristen Stewart turned up at the Chanel Haute Couture show in a snug quilted jacket fresh off the label’s Cruise runway (paired with barely there micro shorts), and Aimee Mullins worked the Cannes red carpet in a black-and-white Emilio Pucci two-piecer. Designers like Christopher Kane and Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg, meanwhile, offered modern spins on the classic with a Prince of Wales check shift dress and a cute romper, respectively.
Beginning today, a mash-up of pop-culture enthusiasts, movie stars, and old-school Marvel collectors will descend on San Diego for the annual Comic-Con International. While you’re more likely to catch members of the fashion set waiting hours in line for an exclusive sample sale than a sneak preview of the new Captain America film, designers and tastemakers have latched onto cartoonish prints. A case in point is Raf Simons, who featured charming Andy Warhol sketches on his Fall runway for Dior, and scattered vibrant pop-art motifs (and text blocks that read “Artificially flavored” and “This is the new shape”) throughout his namesake menswear line for Spring. Disney-style swallows flitted across a shirt at London’s MAN show, and Bambi himself was stamped on Riccardo Tisci’s collection-opening sweatshirt at Givenchy. But Mickey always wins. Miley Cyrus and street-style maven Carlotta Oddi, among others, have gone Mouseketeer lately.