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May 25 2013

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21 posts tagged "Dita Von Teese"

Dita in 3-D

“I can get out of a lot of things, but this dress is not one of them,” said burlesque star Dita Von Teese of the gown she donned to last night’s party at the Ace Hotel. The dress in question was the first fully articulated 3-D printed garment, which was conceptualized by designer Michael Schmidt. And the party, which drew the likes of Debbie Harry, Bob Gruen, and Andrej Pejic, served to toast its unveiling. “I was interested in finding the middle ground between the world of mathematics and the world of ephemeral beauty,” Schmidt told Style.com. The L.A.-based designer, who has crafted looks for stars like Madonna, Cher, and Lady Gaga (the latter wore his glass-bubble costume on the cover of Rolling Stone in 2009), conceived Von Teese’s frock with Fibonacci’s Golden Ratio in mind.

With the help of computational designer and architect Francis Bitonti, Schmidt used 3-D software to realize his space-age gown (think cinched waist and steroidal shoulders). The dress began as a digital rendering, which was then engineered in powdered nylon by high-tech collaborator Shapeways. “As an architect, it’s all about dealing with facades, and this was just about making a curvy one,” mused Bitonti. The body-skimming dress featured an undulating mesh silhouette of three thousand articulated joints fashioned out of layered nylon powder. As if that weren’t complicated enough, it also boasted twelve thousand Swarovski black crystals, which were painstakingly placed by hand after printing. “It’s obviously very futuristic, but I tried to retain a level of old-world glamour that was befitting of Dita,” added Schmidt. Indeed, the Blade Runner-meets-Bettie Page ensemble was worthy of the millennial pinup. “It’s superlight,” Von Teese mused later that evening after slipping into a demure Roland Mouret shift. But was it comfortable? “The only uncomfortable part is that I needed to be very cautious about how I walked. I had to make sure my heels wouldn’t get stuck in the hem.” Even in the future, glamour’s got its obstacles.

Photo: Jeff Meltz

Exclusive: A Magazine Curated by Stephen Jones

Antwerp’s A Magazine has always been much more than a magazine. The key to its cultish allure lies in the subtitle: Curated by. The first issue, in 2004, was curated by Martin Margiela, the most recent by Rodarte. And in between, the likes of Yohji Yamamoto, Haider Ackermann, Riccardo Tisci, and Proenza Schouler have corralled their favorite photographers, artists, and writers to make A Magazine.

Issue Number 12, which launches at Bookmarc during Paris Fashion Week, belongs to Stephen Jones, fashion’s favorite hatter. “I like a magazine that looks like a magazine,” he said yesterday. “It’s not a book. I didn’t want it to be page after page of slightly meaningless photographs. That’s why I thought illustration. I love illustration, I draw every day. And that’s the way designers communicate, through drawing.”


Jones’ choice of medium couldn’t be more timely, with the revival of interest in the work of Antonio Lopez and the spotlight that Anna Piaggi’s recent death threw on Vanity, the mythic magazine she produced with Antonio in the eighties. Piaggi was a close friend of Jones’. It was actually Vanity that brought them together. (Jones’ single interaction with Antonio was when he asked if he could see the picture the artist was drawing of him. Antonio crumpled it, threw it in the trash, and offered a flat “No!”). And Jones sees this current project as a kind of tribute to his late friend and inspiratrice.

There’s no theme, unusual for Jones, whose hat collections usually revolve around a story. “When I saw the work coming in, it was very much about the illustrators themselves.” The roster of talent includes David Downton, one of whose pet subjects, Dita Von Teese, models accessories semi-naked and centerfold-style; Peter Turner, Galliano’s illustrator at Dior, who contributes a story on men’s underwear (Jones advertises, “Entirely gratuitous nudity”); and the legendary Howard Tangye, head of womenswear at Central Saint Martins, who illustrates spring for A Magazine‘s pullout calendar.

Jones’ sole brief to the illustrators was that they could draw whatever they wanted. At least half the images are of hats. “It’s you, Stephen,” they told him when he complained that he wanted his magazine to be about everything. He had to shut up and take the compliment. Anyway, there’s always Donald Urquhart’s images of Leigh Bowery to balance the hattage. He drew them with his own genitalia, dipped in ink.

Jones’ own contribution is a selection of ten favorite drawings, which he spent the Christmas holiday picking out of the thousands he’s made since he launched himself as a milliner in 1979. There are also some “conversations in drawing”: Jones would send Mugler or Montana or Kawakubo a suggestion to accessorize a collection, they’d send it back with comments. He’s also included drawings from industrial designers like Zaha Hadid and Marc Newson, as well as some of Raf Simons’ college work. None of it has been seen before.

“I did try to feel like, ‘Think Pink,’ ” says Jones of his guest stint as a magazine editor. “Editing things down is what an editor does. I wanted to edit things up, make it a fantastic showcase. I didn’t want to be restricted by this season’s story. But I didn’t want to be timeless, either. Always what’s interesting for me is doing an amazing hat for Marc or Raf, but then making a baseball cap for a young Japanese guy who comes into the shop. I love variety. That’s what the magazine is about.”

Click here for an exclusive preview of a few illustrations from A Magazine Curated by Stephen Jones >

Illustration: Gladys Perint Palmer, Courtesy of A Magazine. Photo: Atelier Justine

Melissa Arrives In Soho

“Plastic fantastic” was the theme at Melissa’s Soho flagship store opening last night, where the Brazilian shoe label fêted its arrival stateside, drawing the likes of Marc Jacobs, Lorenzo Martone, and Alessandra Ambrosio. Dubbed Galeria Melissa, the Greene Street shop opened its doors with a riot of acid tones thanks to the São Paulo-based label’s spring collection and psychedelic multimedia installations by art collective Assume Vivid Astro Focus (AVAF). “They wanted a color explosion, which is basically what I do,” said AVAF founder and Brazilian artist Eli Sudbrack, whose latest project was conceiving Gaga’s Workshop at Barneys. Referring to the jelly sandals, he said, “They’re like performance art that people can wear on the street.” Party guest Ryan McNamara openly coveted the warriorlike styles from Gareth Pugh, exclaiming, “I just did a piece that was all about Greek gladiators—I wish I had these!”

Recently re-energized by collaborations with Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, and Jason Wu, the 40-year-old purveyor of candy-colored togs could be considered the ne plus ultra in plastic footwear, forgoing animal leathers for sustainable synthetics. “I love the idea of a plastic shoe,” said Wu, who dashed to the fête between fittings. “It’s not only pretty to look at, it’s extremely functional when it rains.”

The unlikeliest fan? Perennially glamorous Dita Von Teese, who arrived in a floor-grazing lace number that nearly hid her Vivienne Westwood for Melissa round-toe pumps. “I was in Brazil doing a show and discovered this beautiful store with all these amazing shoes,” Von Teese told Style.com, naming the ballet slippers as favorites. (“They’re really comfortable!”) If it’s hard to imagine the burlesque beauty traipsing about in rubber flats, she admitted to donning them only in the afternoon. As the queen of cabaret put it, “I wear them when I know I’ll be dancing a lot.”

Photo: Billy Farrell/BFAnyc.com

BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Shortlist Announced, Dita Von Teese To Appear In “Sleep No More,” Agyness Deyn’s Loft For Sale , And More…

This year’s shortlist of designers for the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2012 was announced today by the British Fashion Council. The nine designers—Jonathan Saunders, Marios Schwab, Mary Katrantzou, Meadham Kirchhoff, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, and Zoe Jordan—will present their collections and future plans before a panel of judges chaired by British Vogue editor Alexandra Shulman. [British Fashion Council]

For its first time ever, Levi’s is planning to show its core collection during New York fashion week in February. The “big-budget presentation in Soho” will show off its Levi’s Red Tab, Levi’s Vintage Collection, and Made & Crafted lines. [WWD]

Dita Von Teese will reportedly join the cast of “Sleep No More” in New York for a special New Year’s Eve show. The burlesque queen’s role in the show has not been revealed yet. [Page Six]

Model Agyness Deyn’s Williamsburg apartment is on the market for $2.5 million dollars. However, the 2,911-square-foot apartment’s baby blue rococo kitchen and leopard-print carpets might put off a few potential buyers. [Telegraph]

Photo: Carly Otness / BFAnyc.com

The Marc Jacobs Exhibition Dates Are Finalized, Rihanna Designs A Capsule Collection, Stella McCartney To Also Show In London, And More…

The Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs exhibition at Les Arts Décoratifs will open during Paris fashion week on March 6 and run through September 16. Jacobs is also reportedly working on a collaboration with “dot-crazy Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.” [WWD]

Rihanna has created a capsule collection for Emporio Armani Jeans and underwear. The offerings include boyfriend and skinny jeans, a leather biker jacket, T-shirts, and a lacy bra and panty set. [Telegraph]

Stella McCartney still plans to show her main collection in Paris, but the designer will debut a “one-off collection” as part of London fashion week on February 18. Looks like a busy year for McCartney—she’s designing the London Olympics outfits for adidas Team Great Britain. [Vogue U.K.]

Dita Von Teese has released a first look at her new lingerie collection launching at Target Australia stores in February 2012. Von Follies by Dita Von Teese, inspired by her personal collection of vintage lingerie, is her second foray into lingerie. [WWD]