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August 1 2014

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13 posts tagged "Dominic Jones"

Dominic Jones Shows His Softer Side

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Dom Jones

Label: Dominic Jones

Need to Know: Dominic Jones unveiled his tenth collection of costume jewelry during his London fashion week presentation this weekend. The five-time NewGen winner’s Fall ’14 affair surprised attendees with a soft, new aesthetic, as well as a performance by his longtime friends Emma Chitty and Jon Jackson. Lit by one spotlight, Chitty—who was dressed in a floor-length lace dress and Jones’ new baubles—slowly danced to an electronic guitar, introducing the audience to the hypnotic beauty of Jones’ Fall ’14 inspiration: the orchid.

Having launched in 2009 with business partner Alice Dellal, Jones’ range is best known for its signature, large-scale, and often dark, aggressive pieces. This season, however, he revealed his lighter side. The designer told us that he views the orchid, his latest muse, not as a girly or meek plant but as a mystical, strong, and beautiful flower. This is precisely what he wanted to communicate through his collection. Detailed images of his work are offered in the Fall lookbook (above), which stars Suki Waterhouse, Dellal, and Ellie Rowsell. Jones’ personal favorite Fall wares are the smallest, including delicate orchid earrings, rings, and pendants.

He Says: “Flowers are not something you would associate with me, but orchids fascinate me very much. The symmetry of the blossom and its individuality are beautiful, and it’s interesting that orchids share a similar growth pattern with the human face.”

Where to Find It: Net-a-Porter, Liberty, Joseph, Harvey Nichols, and 10 Corso Como, among others.

Photo: Courtesy of Dominic Jones

Fashion East’s Menswear Designers Walk on the Wild Side

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Fashion East

Long gone are the days when skirts on men used to shock. Now we have aprons, dangly double tribal earrings, balaclavas, and patent-leather chokers. Or, at least, that’s what we saw at Fashion East’s Fall ’14 menswear installations in London today. Lulu Kennedy’s emerging-designer initiative welcomes three new talents this season: jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirtmaker Massimo Casagrande, and CSM grad Nicomede Talavera (above, left) join Fashion East veterans Tom Ryling (above, right) and Liam Hodges. These three may be freshmen, but they each offered that daring, eyebrow-raising edge that has become synonymous with the platform.

Talavera cited artist Robert Morris as inspiration, but his lineup felt more Star Trek: The Original Series. Graphic, Spock-like sweaters, leather chokers, too-long spliced pant hems over Vans, three-quarter-length aprons draped just so, and color-blocked details reminded us why the word directional was probably invented for Fashion East. Casagrande took cues from artist Adam McEwen’s photographs of New York sidewalks and turned out wares with studs, graphics, and rubber details.

Farahmand, who used to work with Dominic Jones, looked like she had the Fast and the Furious on her brain—speed was her Fall ’14 theme. Tattooed models with menacing haircuts and even scarier oversize knuckle-dusters were draped over fast cars, showing off her rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Amusing under-the-armpit body harnesses and straps over trainers looked so cool, we didn’t care if there was a purpose behind them—and we were too afraid to ask.

Ryling, meanwhile, put balaclavas on his models. He also showed some great graffitied and paint-splattered jean jackets, and trousers with red chiffon overlays. Rounding it out was Hodges, who carried on his theme from last season—no “high-borns,” please. Steel-toed workman boots, lashings of electrical tape, cracked leather, hoodies, and boxy silhouettes made Hodges’ boys look like they were ready to rumble at any time.

Photos: Elise Rose, Lorenza Dalbosco

Dominic Jones Goes Back To The Beginning

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Dominic Jones Spring '14Antelope horns, fanged jaws, shark teeth, and manta rays—all cast in brass and dipped in various hues of gold—are the centerpieces of Dominic Jones’ Spring ’14 collection. Now in his ninth season, the 28-year-old designer, who counts the likes of Beyoncé and Rihanna among his fans, was inspired by natural forms and evolution within nature. And while the London-based talent’s ability to constantly push his futuristic-meets-organic aesthetic forward is largely what editors and top-tier retailers (like Barneys, Net-a-Porter, and 10 Corso Como, among many others) find so appealing, his Spring lineup grew out of the past. In fact, it is a reimagining of his Fall ‘10 offering (his second ever), which he’s elevated by applying the technical skills he’s acquired over the years.

Jones is a hands-on kind of guy. “I design as I go. My brain works more traditionally, and I very much like my technique of working with my fingers, saws, and files,” he explained. But one of the “new skills” he utilizes for Spring is 3-D printing. For instance, he created his deadly but seductive ram’s-horn-shaped choker with a hand-carved mold, but he used 3-D printing to shrink it down and pop out frames for identical rings and bracelets. “3-D design can feel a bit soulless,” Jones said. “The products are often really interesting and intricate, but they lose the warmth you see in handmade pieces.” His 3-D printed baubles, however, are all finished by Jones himself rather than a machine. As he puts it, “It’s the best of both worlds. And it’s already triggered my brain into new ways of approaching design. It’s like finding a new door in your house that you’ve never walked through.” Continue Reading “Dominic Jones Goes Back To The Beginning” »

Britain’s Boys Are Back in Town

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It’s been a big week for the London Collections: Men, with Rag & Bone and Pringle of Scotland announcing that they would join the likes of Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry in presenting during the city’s third menswear showcase this June. “I think London is pretty much the home of menswear. Look at Savile Row and the great heritage we have. We invented the suit!” said Dylan Jones—the editor in chief of British GQ and the chair of London’s men’s collections—at an event at the British Residence in New York last night. The occasion, which drew the likes of BFC chief executive Caroline Rush, Dominic Jones, Nasir Mazhar, Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Lou Dalton, and more, marked the announcement of London’s Spring 2014 menswear schedule. The lineup includes the above-mentioned international brands, as well as talents like Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, and James Long. Long, fresh out of the London Showrooms, which visited New York this week, offered, “When I started menswear in London, we had to struggle to have a voice. It was very behind womenswear. Now, all these supportive people have made [London menswear] happen, and it’s so funny being in New York and having menswear be the focus.” Caroline Rush concurred. “The womenswear designers have great recognition, but to put that spotlight on these incredible menswear brands is really important,” she said.

One might wonder why the British Fashion Council chose to reveal the London menswear roster in Manhattan rather than on its home turf. “We’re here tonight…because so many New York designers have supported us since we launched 18 months ago,” said Jones in his speech, noting that Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and more had all lent a hand. He added that Tommy Hilfiger, David Furnish, Tracey Emin, and Details magazine will all be throwing “amazing” parties during the upcoming shows, which will run from June 16 to 18. “When [everyone] goes over to Milan, they’re going to have one hell of a hangover,” he laughed. The complete Spring 2014 London Collections: Men schedule is available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.

Photo: Charles Moriarty

Color, Texture and Print Reigned at the London Showrooms

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“I like a lot of embellishment and I like a lot of print,” said Holly Fulton. She might have been speaking for all her fellow English designers at the London Showrooms, the traveling, British Fashion Council-sponsored showcase which arrived in New York this week, following a stint in L.A. It’s almost a clichĂ© that London designers trend bright and buzzy, but it’s become something of a calling card for the young talents nurtured by the BFC. To tweak the old saw, go big or stay home.

Fulton served up her groupie-inspired Fall collection, which featured lava-rock embellishments, hand-drawn prints, and a rather impressive dress constructed entirely of feathers. Others, like Simone Rocha (above), who’s currently selling stateside in Jeffrey and Opening Ceremony, offered less print but more color. Her key pieces were voluminous waffle-knitted neoprene looks in what she laughingly referred to as “Pepto pink.” Thomas Tait also played on unexpected fusion of spongy, bonded leather and quilted nylon in Day-Glo oranges and lime greens. “I feel like I’ve been shouting,” said Tait, whose line is also carried at Jeffrey. “I’ll be doing something mellower next season.”

Meanwhile, Fyodor Golan, designed by Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman, balanced elegant, elaborately embellished print dresses with more playful leather pieces embossed with smiley faces. Turns out Smiley—the company that owns the rights to the icon—approached the duo for a collaboration, and they jumped at the chance to create, as Frydman put it, a “sexual smiley.” Another duo, Teatum Jones (that is to say, Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones) showed bright, seemingly tie-dyed dresses in perforated bonded jersey, as well as a few particularly interesting coats in latex-coated alpaca wool. Yet a third duo, Palmer//Harding, also in attendance, used a similarly clever technique on their wools to make them look like leather.

Men’s designers were on display, too, and they came with news to share. James Long whispered that half the designers showing on the Paris calendar had called to personal-order his sweater knitted with a giant picture of Divine. Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton of Agi & Sam had news of an offbeat football (read: soccer) and owl-inspired capsule collection they’ll launch at Topman next month. And jeweler Dominic Jones revealed he’ll show his first-ever men’s collection during June’s London Collections: Men. In the meantime, he was showing his mainline collection as well as his recently-launched lower priced range, DJ by Dominic Jones. “I wanted to make something that all my friends could afford,” he said when asked about the gold-plated and bright enamel collection of baubles, which average about $100 apiece.

Photo: Courtesy of the BFC