2 posts tagged "Douglas Gordon"
Look hard enough at a fashion season and you can extract practically anything you like. I like forensics, so the appearance in Dsquared²’s mad scientist show of a sheer stretch top with arteries carefully outlined on it reminded me that I’ve been catching vague intimations of a CSI subtext over the past few weeks. We have Douglas Gordon’s special-edition sweater for Pringle to look forward to, with his tattoos duplicated in cashmere, but what was really on my mind was Marlon Gobel’s hand-knit sweater intarsia-ed with a human heart and its supportive web of veins. Though Gobel is one of New York’s newest menswear names, he’s actually been a backstage Johnny for years, working with Thom Browne and then Michael Bastian, which gave him a mountain of valuable experience to compress into his own collection. Mad science is a pretty accurate description of the 12-look collection he showed in the geodesic dome he installed in an old bathhouse in the (very) East Village during New York fashion week. It occurred to Gobel that cable knit looked like the DNA double helix, which gave him one of his key motifs for sweaters and the quilting on a nylon blouson. A tuxedo jumpsuit had carbon fiber lining. Other tailored pieces were lined with Kevlar. The designer wanted his models, with their slicked-back hair and ID tags, to look like NASA Employees of the Year. To say he succeeded isn’t necessarily a compliment. Still, Gobel was insistent that “You can’t get into the future without the right ID.” The same goes for Bergdorf Goodman, where the collection has been picked up for fall.
Pringle’s marriage of fashion and art has so far produced a David Shrigley film that’s a YouTube hit and Ryan McGinley’s hypnotic collaboration with Tilda Swinton. The three of them were involved in the company’s latest project, co-curated by Julia Peyton-Jones and Hans Ulrich Obrist of London’s Serpentine Gallery, to mark Pringle’s 195th anniversary and the Serpentine’s 40th. A handful of contemporary Scottish artists—and a few special outsiders like Colette’s Sarah Lerfel and Corso Como’s Carla Sozzani—were invited to interpret the twinset and the argyle pattern, cornerstones of Pringle’s past.
Swinton re-created her grandmother’s cardigan in a color she called “glass green,” just about the most traditional Scottish shade you could imagine, complete with the darned sleeves and elbows she remembered, which honorary Scotsman Waris Ahluwalia then “couturized” with silver and enamel buttons and a thistle brooch. Shrigley named his fractured-argyle twinset “Annoying,” because he’d added a big label that stuck out in the annoying way labels stick out. McGinley’s piece, “John” (pictured), featured a black seagull against a white backdrop (Jonathan Livingston Seagull, for the record, because “my work is about being free as a bird,” said McGinley). And Scot-rockers Franz Ferdinand and Turner Prize winners Richard Wright and Douglas Gordon were still working on their twinsets, but, at today’s press conference at the Serpentine, Gordon promised a flesh-toned piece which would duplicate in intarsia-ed cashmere the tattoos that litter his torso. He reminded us all that part of Pringle’s rich Scottish heritage was that it was the football hooligan’s aspirational label, “and pink Pringle made you look extra-hard.” On cue, his mobile issued a blast of AC/DC. You’ll be able to buy Doug’s tats and all the other artists’ twinsets in editions of 195 at Pringle stores come September.