34 posts tagged "Dover Street Market"
Breakfast with my colleague Maya to go over the lineup for the next issue of Style.com/Print, which we put together while simultaneously covering the shows on the site and publish within a month of the close of Paris fashion week, a live-broadcast approach to making a magazine. Then it was off to the Rodarte show. Last season’s collection got slated, though I sort of liked its trashy energy. This one had more of the Mulleavy sisters’ customary handcrafted offbeat charm and should be a hit with their fans. After that it was on to Diesel Black Gold on the West Side, and then a meeting on the East Side with a European luxury house, who filled me in on its plans for a huge event later this spring.
Tons of energy and lots of food for thought at Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has been rechristened by its initials and is now in the hands of the London-based duo of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Something about the scale of the plywood set and the refracted references here made me think I could have been at a show in Paris. There was an intriguing magpie quality to the clothes, as if you were moving through the racks of Dover Street Market from the Japanese designer section to the sophisticated European section to the streetwear section. My favorite grouping was the BMX-inspired looks. The show was a bona fide smash with the audience. It’ll be interesting to see how the aesthetic, a break from the line’s more insouciant past, plays at retail. Delphine Arnault, of the parent group LVMH, was looking on from the front row.
Talking of Dover Street Market, I ran into the new Comme des Garçons-operated, multiretailer space on Lexington Avenue to say hello to Andre Walker. Walker is the first to describe himself as an “elusive” designer, and after a few stops and starts, he’s back with a small line, thanks to the encouragement of DSM’s Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo. You’ll find it on the seventh floor between Junya Watanabe and Prada, an indication of the esteem Kawakubo has for Walker.
Every season, there are a couple of models who break through and start popping up in all the big shows so that you can trace the day’s development through their changing hairstyles and runway attitudes. This season, those models are Binx Walton and Anna Ewers, who in the space of a few hours went from Bolshevik ninja at MBMJ to sleek gallerina at the serenely beautiful Narciso Rodriguez show that closed another day of New York fashion week.
According to WWD, ever-popular British high-street retailer Topshop has signed a lease for a 90,000-square-foot store on Fifth Avenue and 49th Street. The new digs will be the second-biggest Topshop store in the world, trumped only by the brand’s Oxford Circus flagship in London. It’s a logical move, considering the success of the company’s Soho shop, which marked Topshop’s U.S. debut when it opened in 2009. But the news has got us wondering: Could Midtown be gaining some cred? It’s not exactly the first place we associate with on-the-pulse chic, but considering Dover Street Market bowed in Murray Hill in December and that Topshop—along with all its covetable capsules—is moving in, we think the hood could have some potential.
Come Thursday, Dover Street Market won’t be the only conceptual Japanese-centric retailer in town—Tokyo-based department store Isetan is bringing its Nipponista pop-up to Soho. “Isetan considers New York the hub of fashion in the business sense, and their ultimate goal is to open a permanent store,” said Kohsuke Miki, the creative director of the project. The weeklong pop-up is sponsored by both Isetan and the Japanese government’s Cool Japan initiative, through which the Ministry of Economy, Trade, and Industry aims to promote Japanese products, craft, and technique abroad.
“For more than twenty years, there hasn’t been significant [Japanese] talent that actually surpasses the talent that existed before it,” Kohsuke said. “In the eighties there was Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto, and in the seventies there was Issey Miyake, Kansai Yamamoto, and Kenzo Takada.” Kohsuke believes that Nipponista, a cuter construct of the word Japanophile, is the right first step in establishing the new guard of Japanese creative talent and design.
Nipponista’s 2,000-square-foot space, which debuts exclusively here, features wares from some of the heritage brands Kohsuke mentioned—there’s a vintage Yohji Yamamoto ensemble, as well as choice pieces from Kansai Yamamoto’s latest collection (he revived his brand in 2013). But a coterie of designs from five emerging talents, who were commissioned to craft clothes in traditional Japanese indigo, or “Japanese blue,” is the centerpiece. Other fashion offerings include handmade sneakers from Hender Scheme, wearable embroidery from Maison des Perles, geometric jewelry from Shihara, delicate scarves from Suzusan, and garments from Anrealage and Yoko Chan, among others. Everything in the shop—even the giant window display of a teddy bear, which was constructed with hundreds of tiny balloons by artist duo Daisy Balloon—was made in Japan. Continue Reading “Nipponista Lands in New York: Finally, a Pop-Up Store That’s Worth Visiting” »
“I used to go to Dover Street Market when I was in Uni, and I was always awestruck by it. The space and concept were exactly how I envisioned retail,” said Fashion East alum and London-based menswear designer-to-watch Craig Green. “To be asked to design a display and showcase my collection…let’s just say it was more than a dream come true.”
The pairing seems especially apropos, considering the critically acclaimed young designer is well known for working against the grain—not unlike Rei Kawakubo and her team at DSM. Green was chuffed to be asked to partake in the London store’s tachiagari (“rebirth” in Japanese, and for DSM, that meant shutting down for a couple of days, clearing out the sad old sale bits, sprucing up the place, and adding a few new designers) and show off his Spring ’14 collection.
“They knew I have a thing for wood [Green has featured wearable wooden sculptures in his past collections], so they asked me to incorporate that in the display. Apart from that, they gave me full creative license, and I went with it to build this climbing frame, but cobbled together in a haphazard, chaotic way. It’s reminiscent of the type you would find in a park for kids, but this one is slightly menacing and dangerous,” explained Green, who also has an installation at DSM’s New York location.
“Then, because Spring ’14 had a lot of tie-dye, I thought it would be good to whitewash the frame to counteract the colorfulness of the collection,” he continued of the display, which takes pride of place on the ground floor.
Next up for Green is art-directing an eight-page spread for a men’s magazine, which the designer doesn’t consider moonlighting. Art director, stylist, builder, designer—his thing is to stay busy and let the creativity roll out: “I guess I’ve learned not to say no to anything.”
Victoria Beckham continues her seemingly endless fashion ascent today—the Spice Girl-turned-designer is confirmed to open her first flagship in London’s Mayfair neighborhood. The boutique will be located at 36 Dover Street, right across from Rei Kawakubo’s original Dover Street Market (which, you may recall, recently bowed its third location in New York). Beckham has hired Farshid Moussavi to redesign the three-floor, 7,000-square-foot store, which will carry wares from all five of Beckham’s design categories: Victoria Beckham, Victoria Victoria Beckham, denim, optical, and accessories. “I think the time is now because I know my customer,” Beckham told WWD. While Britain is her strongest market, America follows closely behind (Beckham’s reportedly opening an office in Manhattan this February), so it may not be long before we have our own VB store to fete.