73 posts tagged "Dries Van Noten"
When he walked me around his exhibition this morning, Dries Van Noten wanted to make one thing clear. The show—which runs at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris until August 31—is emphatically not a career retrospective. Instead, it’s a sumptuous meditation on creativity, a idea summed up by its title, Inspirations. Every room is a multilayered inroad into Van Noten’s thought processes, and, like the McQueen exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, the show is so rich that it will have the power to enthrall people who have no prior engagement with fashion. But among the many provocative juxtapositions of past, present, and future, one stands out as a singular piece of mind-fuckery. To illuminate Van Noten’s fascination with the front and back of things (something which has sparked some of his most interesting fashion statements), Bronzino’s exquisite Portrait of a Man Holding a Statuette, on loan from the Louvre, is juxtaposed with an abstract painting by Gerhard Richter. You can imagine the Richter as the back of the Bronzino, Van Noten mused. Suddenly, I saw the world through his eyes.
I have to admit, pink is one of my favorite colors. I’m always drawn to baby pink cashmere sweaters and cotton shirts, or darker-hued dresses and silk blouses. To my delight, we’ve seen a rainbow of roses in the Fall ’14 collections—particularly fuchsia, which has been all over the runway. Alexander Wang, Altuzarra, and Dries Van Noten have all sent pink down their catwalks, but being the anxious shopper that I am, I don’t think I can wait until August to indulge in the trend. My solution? House of Holland’s shocking pink lace dress, which is already in my Net-a-Porter shopping cart. I can only hope that spring weather is not too far away—too bad that’s not available for same-day delivery in New York.
House of Holland dress, $545, Buy it now
When we first fell in love with the intricately embroidered coats from the Dries Van Noten Fall ’13 collection, we had no idea just how essential they would become. New York basically felt like one giant snow globe throughout NYFW, and such statement coats became the unrivaled uniform of the style set. Miroslava Duma and Taylor Tomasi Hill both stepped out in DVN’s opening look—a slightly oversized, midnight blue coat with shocking pink embroidery—and Tommy Ton spotted another showgoer in the camel and sunshine yellow version in London. We’ll probably regret saying this, but we’re secretly hoping for another cold front next year—all the more reason to expand our coat collection.
Fashion folk are a curious bunch, and we’ve found that they tend to collect equally curious things. In our “Take Five” feature, we get the lowdown on our favorite industry personalities’ most treasured trinkets.
There won’t be enough sun-filled English days in this lifetime for Tracy Sedino to wear each pair of vintage shades in the Linda Farrow archive. “Oh, my god, I must have thousands,” she said last week at a dinner in New York. Sedino was behind the revival of the Linda Farrow brand, whose namesake designer worked with houses such as Yves Saint Laurent and Emilio Pucci to create glasses in the seventies and eighties. Farrow closed her business to start a family in the late eighties, and her crates of luxurious lenses were stored away in a London warehouse.
Over a decade later, Sedino—then a student at the London College of Fashion—began dating (and has since married) Farrow’s son, Simon Jablon. “His father had some warehouses,” Sedino recalled. “And he asked Simon to get rid of all the stock, because they were getting turned into residential properties. So I went with him, and we found original Pucci and YSL sunglasses piled three-floors high.” Obviously, their discovery couldn’t go to waste, so she and Jablon used it as a jumping-off point and rebooted the house of Linda Farrow. They sold some of the vintage styles but, more notably, began partnering with young talents to turn out glamorous—and often outrageous—designs. (Remember those Jeremy Scott Minnie Mouse shades? That was their doing). Today, the husband-and-wife team continues the company in Farrow’s spirit and makes glasses for everyone from Dries Van Noten, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Suno to Alexander Wang, Peter Pilotto, and The Row. “We thought there was a massive gap in the market,” said Sedino of her and Jablon’s decision to relaunch Linda Farrow. “You have these big luxury houses that sign licensing deals, but other designers, like Dries, will never do that, because they value their brands too much. We wanted to reinforce what Simon’s mother did in the seventies by working with designers to create eyewear as a fashion accessory, rather than a licensed product.”
Sedino and Jablon celebrated their company’s (and their relationship’s) tenth anniversary this year. And to mark the milestone, the duo have not only offered up a ten-year capsule collection but also opened a pop-up shop in collaboration with BOFFO, right here in NYC. The store, which is located at the Chelsea SuperPier, and open through December 24, boasts a bevy of Linda Farrow’s most covetable products. As for that archive of vintage sunnies, Sedino told us that it’s a constant point of reference. “We don’t want our collections to be too vintage, so we take inspiration from the vintage styles, and incorporate new technology and materials,” she said. Here, Sedino talks us through her five favorite pairs of old-school Linda Farrow frames.
1. “These are acetate Linda Farrow glasses from the eighties. They’re my holiday pair. I love them because the idea and design are fun, and they’re quite comfortable on my face. Ironically, it’s hard for me to find sunglasses that fit—for Asians, it’s difficult to find pairs that sit on the nose bridge. I’ve been wearing these for the last two years, and I’m particularly inspired their shape, because they’re almost like a big chunky Wayfarer. You can really wear them whenever.”
2. “These are Yves Saint Laurent glasses from the early seventies. They’re kind of a round Jackie O style. They’re handmade in acetate, with metal arms. This pair is a one-off, so we don’t have stock anymore. They’re one of my favorite styles, because they’re the perfect size. But I don’t really wear them, because I’m afraid of losing them.”
3. “These are Linda Farrow glasses from the eighties, and they were kind of inspired by Lolita. Whenever stylists call in for Lolita-style frames, we send them these. I wear them all the time in the summer.”
4. “These are amazing. This is another YSL pair from the seventies. They’re not one-of-a-kind—we still have a few—but not many. The lenses are polarized, and because of the orange, they’re my autumn glasses.”
5. “This is the most iconic Linda Farrow style. I love how the sides are beveled. We’ve actually launched a fine-jewelry collection of 18-karat-gold-and-diamond sunglasses, and this is one of the styles we used.”