16 posts tagged "Dsquared2"
By now, it’s been established that we’re in the midst of a nineties style revival (points of reference: the spring 2013 collections of Dries Van Noten, Phillip Lim, Dsquared², and House of Holland, just to name a few). But the art world is reliving the nineties, too. Earlier this month, the New Museum opened its NYC 1993: Experimental Jet Set, Trash and No Star exhibition, which, named for a Sonic Youth song, features artwork that was exhibited or produced in New York in 1993 (like Matthew Barney’s drawings, John Currin’s Girl in Bed painting, and Art Club 2000′s Conrans I print, which shows Gen Y-ers surrounded by Gap bags—below). And today, photographer Marcelo Krasilcic memorializes the full decade with his show 1990s at Colette in Paris. (It coincides with the release of his book, Marcelo Krasilcic: 1990s, which Colette will fete on March 1.)
So why all the nineties nostalgia? “I think we’ve explored the eighties already. We have these generational moments, and twenty years feels like the right time to look back,” says Jenny Moore, one of the curators of the New Museum exhibition. But aside from the twenty-year mark, there are cultural similarities between today and the grunge era, which are ripe for exploration. For instance, health care and gay rights were climbing onto the political stage in the nineties. Today, they’re front and center. “A lot of what happened then—in terms of culture, fashion, and music—is still very much a part of our cultural discourse,” says Moore. The early nineties also marked the beginning of Rudolph Giuliani’s tenure as mayor of New York City, which many believe marked the end of the dirty, dangerous, free-spirited party that was old NYC. “It was the last hurrah for New York in this gritty, anything-is-possible moment.”
Krasilcic, who came to New York from São Paulo to study photography in 1990, concurs. “It really did feel like everything was possible,” says the photographer, who at the time was working with the likes of Dazed & Confused, Purple, and Self Service. “The distinction between art and fashion photography was really blurred, and the clothes were just an accessory to the idea that we wanted to talk about.” Not surprisingly, his favorite nineties subject was indie queen Chloë Sevigny (above), whose photographs feature in his show and book. Don’t call it a comeback—Chloë is one nineties icon who never left.
The New Museum’s 1993: Experimental Jet Set, Trash and No Star runs through May 26; Marcelo Krasilcic’s exhibition will be open at Colette from today through March 20.
There’s no arguing that Dsquared²’s Dean and Dan Caten are frightfully handsome men. But beautiful women? Who knew! The designers teamed up with Mert and Marcus to create their moody, Hitchcockian Spring ’13 film titled Behind the Mirror. And to show off Dsquared²’s short shorts, corsets, body-con dresses, and piles of gold jewelry, the Caten men dressed up in drag. “Twenty years ago, we used to play around at being models,” says Dean, noting that he and Dan used to play “dress up” when they’d go to parties. “Now we are looking back to the nineties, an era that has become the theme of our collection. We asked ourselves what we were doing back then and realized we were pretending to be people we weren’t,” he adds. However, the designers explain that it’s one thing to dance around in one’s underwear and heels, pretending to be Madonna among friends, but it’s quite another to do it in front of a camera crew. “You feel a little awkward [on set], not least because one day you’re a man and one day you are dressed up as a woman. It’s a bit strange,” says Dan. Dean admits, “I was terrified, and I really wasn’t comfortable until the last scene. I mean, nobody said, ‘Hey, you look hot!’ It was all very serious and there were no comments, no reaction…nothing, [which] is the worst.” Whether or not they were at ease in their feminine wares, the designers seem quite the pair of vintage glamazons (with fantastic legs, we might add) as they crawl around on their hands and knees inside a mirrored room. Unfortunately for us, it doesn’t look like we’ll be seeing the Dsquared² boys cross-dressing again anytime soon. “I’ll try everything once, especially if it means having some fun,” says Dan. “But I like to always move forward and evolve, so I doubt we’ll go back to doing this.” Catch the gorgeous gents while you can in the film’s online debut, above.
The nineties enjoyed a revival on the Spring runways, with designers drawing inspiration from two of the decade’s major fashion moments: the dawning era of the super-glam supermodel and the Seattle grunge scene.
On the glam side of the equation were the designers who channeled that iconic Peter Lindbergh shot of Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, et al., vamping around in leather jackets, motorcycle caps, miniskirts, and biker boots. Dean and Dan Caten directly referenced the image with their typically over-the-top lineup for DSquared². And you could see traces of those “We don’t wake up for less than $10,000 a day” times at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing brought back bold-shouldered power suits and supersize hoop earrings worthy of the Fly Girls. On the grunge side of the divide, Phillip Lim mashed up flannels, lace, and shredded khaki, and models stomped down the runway wearing stringy, Kurt Cobain wigs at Theyskens’ Theory. Grunge officially became a trend in Paris when Dries Van Noten elevated the look with plaids cut from featherweight organzas and mousselines.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of more nineties moments from the Spring runways.
For most high school students, the books have closed on this academic year and summer is now in full swing. Not so for Dean and Dan Caten’s co-eds—the Dsquared² designers, who staged a full-on high school prom at their Fall ’12 show in Milan, continued with the theme for their latest Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott-lensed ad campaign. The short film (debuting exclusively here on Style.com today) is an ode to teen rebellion in the sixties, featuring the designers and a very good-looking crop of students, including models Benedikt Angerer, Simon Van Meervenne, Liuk Bass, Ralf Javoiss, Daphne Groeneveld, Frida Aasen, and Bette Franke. Though they are sporting the label’s sweeter-than-usual offerings for Fall, like button-downs, brushed mohair sweaters, and cropped pink pants, don’t be fooled—they are up to no good. Watch the full film, shot at London’s Ragged School Museum, to see what they’ve got up their sleeves.
Yesterday afternoon was a busy one along the Rue Saint-Honoré: As the new Balenciaga store shed the last of its protective taping, up the street at the Dsquared² boutique, Dean and Dan Caten welcomed friends who popped by to check out their new handbag line—make that lines, starting with the Montana bag spotted on the runway in February. Although made in Italy, the bags, like the boys, sport Canadian names and flourishes—there are colorful totes bearing Canadian provinces, birds, and maple leaves, and a motif that would do Sandra Dee proud, with its bouffanted dolls, pearl necklaces, lipstick, nail polish, and the odd cigarette. The Quebec comes in four colors and may be the official flagship bag, but Dan confesses to a preference for the ultra high-end Toronto bag (pictured) in croc and suede (Dean, for his part, likes the paper-bag-style Kimberly in nappa leather). A tartan moment aside, men’s bags are strictly utilitarian, with cargo pockets, oiled canvas bodies, and expandable shapes on some models (as unrepentant heavy packers with a thing for shoes, these designers know that every extra corner helps). And regardless of gender, dual cell phone wielders will appreciate the ubiquitous twin pockets inside. But before they pack for Mykonos, and even before the men’s collections, the Catens are heading back to the classroom to offer us all a brief tutorial on how to work those sparkly high heels (more to come on that later—stay tuned on Style.com). Look out for the bags in stores in mid-July.