16 posts tagged "Dsquared2"
The Dsquared² live stream starts at 3:30 a.m. EDT / 9:30 a.m. Milan, right here on Style.com.
With his Spring ’09 menswear collection, Alexander McQueen helped kick-start a trend for skulls and skeletons. (Ed Hardy and Christian Audigier kept skulls top of mind for those tracking a different fashion demographic.) And then, as with all gluts, it seemed that the moment had passed—we’d seen just one memento mori too many. Who needed to be reminded, after all?
But it looks like we called it too early. Bones are back, baby—and not just on scrawny models. (Hold the jokes and the harangues, please.) At the Couture shows, Riccardo Tisci was thinking of “a romantic way to see death”—hence the bone-shaped zipper pulls, the skeletal jewelry, a tiny skull nestled in the back of a satin jacket (left; check out our slideshow for a closer look). Jean Paul Gaultier was on the same page. He spoke of a bare-bones approach to couture, and then, the final look: Dita Von Teese in a barely-there corset resembling nothing so much as a glittering ribcage. For a gala of ghouls, you could pair it with Dsquared²’s spinal-column heels from Fall ’10—or, for a little more coverage, one of the skull instarsia knits from Lucien Pellat-Finet, whom you might call the elder statesman of the trend. He’s been playing with skulls for more than a decade.
At her Paris men’s shows, Rei Kawakubo dedicated nearly her entire collection for Comme des Garçons to the theme. Skull-laden lads (with heads painted to suggest the craniums beneath) wore suits, shirts, shoes, and even dresses printed with the motif. And from the arena of pop—literally—Lady Gaga had her finger on the (undead) pulse last night for her first-ever show at Madison Square Garden. She donned a bone-fingered glove during one of her many costume changes.
Skeletons—back into the closet? Click here for our slideshow of bony looks.
Look hard enough at a fashion season and you can extract practically anything you like. I like forensics, so the appearance in Dsquared²’s mad scientist show of a sheer stretch top with arteries carefully outlined on it reminded me that I’ve been catching vague intimations of a CSI subtext over the past few weeks. We have Douglas Gordon’s special-edition sweater for Pringle to look forward to, with his tattoos duplicated in cashmere, but what was really on my mind was Marlon Gobel’s hand-knit sweater intarsia-ed with a human heart and its supportive web of veins. Though Gobel is one of New York’s newest menswear names, he’s actually been a backstage Johnny for years, working with Thom Browne and then Michael Bastian, which gave him a mountain of valuable experience to compress into his own collection. Mad science is a pretty accurate description of the 12-look collection he showed in the geodesic dome he installed in an old bathhouse in the (very) East Village during New York fashion week. It occurred to Gobel that cable knit looked like the DNA double helix, which gave him one of his key motifs for sweaters and the quilting on a nylon blouson. A tuxedo jumpsuit had carbon fiber lining. Other tailored pieces were lined with Kevlar. The designer wanted his models, with their slicked-back hair and ID tags, to look like NASA Employees of the Year. To say he succeeded isn’t necessarily a compliment. Still, Gobel was insistent that “You can’t get into the future without the right ID.” The same goes for Bergdorf Goodman, where the collection has been picked up for fall.
After Dsquared², we caught a bespectacled, dressed-down Carmen Kass sneaking out from backstage and took advantage of the five captive minutes a smoke break provides for a quick chat with the still gorgeous super. She’s mostly retired from the runway and has diversified her portfolio a little more than most models we know, taking an ownership stake in energy, property, and trading companies. If that seems unmodel-ish, well, so’s her chosen homes. “Places like New York are just too intense, too much about money, too much about ambition; it’s all too superficial for me,” she told us of her choice to divide her time between Estonia and Germany.
Given that she spends more time now in the office, we wondered about her staying power on the catwalk—it’s no slouch to open a major Milan show. “Everybody tells me it’s in the cheekbones, but I think that growing up in a cold climate sort of preserves the skin,” she told us, though she did admit that in these leaner times some “prestige” editorial shoots had not only asked her to work for free, but requested that she pay her own traveling expenses. We’re a long way from the Linda Evangelista “we don’t wake up for less than $10,000″ days, but a girl’s gotta have some standards. “Are they crazy? I get paid to work; I don’t pay to work.” We’re willing to bet Dsquared² wasn’t a pro bono arrangement.