Style.com

August 22 2014

styledotcom How Ukrainian designers have embraced nationalism: stylem.ag/1s6zMYL pic.twitter.com/1l7c5yDfwI

Subscribe to Style Magazine
20 posts tagged "Dsquared2"

Dsquared² Does Drag

-------



There’s no arguing that Dsquared²’s Dean and Dan Caten are frightfully handsome men. But beautiful women? Who knew! The designers teamed up with Mert and Marcus to create their moody, Hitchcockian Spring ’13 film titled Behind the Mirror. And to show off Dsquared²’s short shorts, corsets, body-con dresses, and piles of gold jewelry, the Caten men dressed up in drag. “Twenty years ago, we used to play around at being models,” says Dean, noting that he and Dan used to play “dress up” when they’d go to parties. “Now we are looking back to the nineties, an era that has become the theme of our collection. We asked ourselves what we were doing back then and realized we were pretending to be people we weren’t,” he adds. However, the designers explain that it’s one thing to dance around in one’s underwear and heels, pretending to be Madonna among friends, but it’s quite another to do it in front of a camera crew. “You feel a little awkward [on set], not least because one day you’re a man and one day you are dressed up as a woman. It’s a bit strange,” says Dan. Dean admits, “I was terrified, and I really wasn’t comfortable until the last scene. I mean, nobody said, ‘Hey, you look hot!’ It was all very serious and there were no comments, no reaction…nothing, [which] is the worst.” Whether or not they were at ease in their feminine wares, the designers seem quite the pair of vintage glamazons (with fantastic legs, we might add) as they crawl around on their hands and knees inside a mirrored room. Unfortunately for us, it doesn’t look like we’ll be seeing the Dsquared² boys cross-dressing again anytime soon. “I’ll try everything once, especially if it means having some fun,” says Dan. “But I like to always move forward and evolve, so I doubt we’ll go back to doing this.” Catch the gorgeous gents while you can in the film’s online debut, above.

The Nineties, Remixed

-------

The nineties enjoyed a revival on the Spring runways, with designers drawing inspiration from two of the decade’s major fashion moments: the dawning era of the super-glam supermodel and the Seattle grunge scene.

On the glam side of the equation were the designers who channeled that iconic Peter Lindbergh shot of Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, et al., vamping around in leather jackets, motorcycle caps, miniskirts, and biker boots. Dean and Dan Caten directly referenced the image with their typically over-the-top lineup for DSquared². And you could see traces of those “We don’t wake up for less than $10,000 a day” times at Balmain, where Olivier Rousteing brought back bold-shouldered power suits and supersize hoop earrings worthy of the Fly Girls. On the grunge side of the divide, Phillip Lim mashed up flannels, lace, and shredded khaki, and models stomped down the runway wearing stringy, Kurt Cobain wigs at Theyskens’ Theory. Grunge officially became a trend in Paris when Dries Van Noten elevated the look with plaids cut from featherweight organzas and mousselines.

CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of more nineties moments from the Spring runways.

The School Of Dsquared²

-------

For most high school students, the books have closed on this academic year and summer is now in full swing. Not so for Dean and Dan Caten’s co-eds—the Dsquared² designers, who staged a full-on high school prom at their Fall ’12 show in Milan, continued with the theme for their latest Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott-lensed ad campaign. The short film (debuting exclusively here on Style.com today) is an ode to teen rebellion in the sixties, featuring the designers and a very good-looking crop of students, including models Benedikt Angerer, Simon Van Meervenne, Liuk Bass, Ralf Javoiss, Daphne Groeneveld, Frida Aasen, and Bette Franke. Though they are sporting the label’s sweeter-than-usual offerings for Fall, like button-downs, brushed mohair sweaters, and cropped pink pants, don’t be fooled—they are up to no good. Watch the full film, shot at London’s Ragged School Museum, to see what they’ve got up their sleeves.

Photo: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

To Canada, With Love From Dsquared2

-------

Yesterday afternoon was a busy one along the Rue Saint-Honoré: As the new Balenciaga store shed the last of its protective taping, up the street at the Dsquared² boutique, Dean and Dan Caten welcomed friends who popped by to check out their new handbag line—make that lines, starting with the Montana bag spotted on the runway in February. Although made in Italy, the bags, like the boys, sport Canadian names and flourishes—there are colorful totes bearing Canadian provinces, birds, and maple leaves, and a motif that would do Sandra Dee proud, with its bouffanted dolls, pearl necklaces, lipstick, nail polish, and the odd cigarette. The Quebec comes in four colors and may be the official flagship bag, but Dan confesses to a preference for the ultra high-end Toronto bag (pictured) in croc and suede (Dean, for his part, likes the paper-bag-style Kimberly in nappa leather). A tartan moment aside, men’s bags are strictly utilitarian, with cargo pockets, oiled canvas bodies, and expandable shapes on some models (as unrepentant heavy packers with a thing for shoes, these designers know that every extra corner helps). And regardless of gender, dual cell phone wielders will appreciate the ubiquitous twin pockets inside. But before they pack for Mykonos, and even before the men’s collections, the Catens are heading back to the classroom to offer us all a brief tutorial on how to work those sparkly high heels (more to come on that later—stay tuned on Style.com). Look out for the bags in stores in mid-July.

Photo: Francois Goize

LIVE FROM MILAN: DSQUARED2

-------


The Dsquared² live stream starts at 3:30 a.m. EDT / 9:30 a.m. Milan, right here on Style.com.