17 posts tagged "Duckie Brown"
The fashion-show season—which starts with menswear in early January and runs through March, when the last womenswear collections leave the Paris runways—is indeed a marathon. And, according to an article in WWD today, it may get a little bit longer. Steven Kolb revealed that the CFDA has been discussing the possibility of tacking a New York men’s week onto the calendar in 2014 (now that London’s launched its Collections: Men, NYC is the last fashion capital without a week for the gents). It is arguable that the shows would help menswear sales (the men’s buying schedule is different than the women’s, and showing during NYFW in February, as they do now, can be a setback). However, some, like Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown (a look from his Spring ’13 collection is pictured, left) and Ralph Lauren, are skeptical that a New York men’s week could compete on the international calendar. Doug Jakubowski of Perry Ellis went so far as to say it was “unreasonable.” Even so, there’s always the philosophy that if you build it, they will come…
As we enter into a month of fashion shows, we’ve asked some of this season’s biggest stars and most anticipated new talents to offer a sneak peek. Naturally, it’s a busy time for everyone—designers and fashion watchers alike—so we’re pioneering the split-second preview: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. To view all of our Fall ’13 previews, click here.
WHO: Duckie Brown, designed by Daniel Silver and Steven Cox
WHERE: New York, NY
WHEN: Thursday, February 7
WHAT: “The show is called DUCKYL. Overcoats and coats and more overcoats and coats with sweatshirts done in woven fabrics.” —Daniel Silver and Steven Cox. The designers sent us a sketch from their Fall ’13 collection, above.
For all its incredible history (the path-breaking work of its founder and namesake; that old chestnut about one Marc Jacobs and his legendary and firing-worthy grunge collection), Perry Ellis had gone stale in recent years. But the announcement several months ago about the appointment of a design team has brought buzz back to the American label. Its new creative directors, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver (pictured), the partner-duo behind Duckie Brown, surprised many. Including the designers themselves.
Cox and Silver are the first to admit they came to Perry Ellis from a distance. “I have never been inspired by Perry Ellis in a Duckie Brown collection,” Cox said at a preview at their West Village studio. “Now, go on a few months, having looked at the videos and researched quite heavily into Perry Ellis, I feel it was a really good match. Perry Ellis was considered a little bit kooky, a little bit strange. He had this odd match, that doesn’t look as odd now.”
Kooky is a word often applied to Cox’s Duckie Brown collections, which don’t shy away from dramatic statements. The contemporary perception of Ellis, by contrast, is—to use a phrase the designers don’t much care for—”American sportswear.” “American sportswear seems to me, like, 1960-something,” Cox said. “I am American now, but I was born in England. I don’t have that root in me that is growing up as a teenager with that heritage Ralph Lauren preppy thing. I don’t know about cheerleaders, I didn’t go to a prom. I have no references that a lot of American designers do that are truly American.” His Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection will be “transatlantic sportswear”: beholden to the American tradition but with a more studied design flair.
While the Perry name has plenty of purchase, the designers actually began with a blanker slate than many realize. Ellis himself never did a men’s-only show in his lifetime. The label has no archive; Cox and Silver bought some pieces on eBay, but for the most part, they’re starting fresh. (They’ve been playing video of old Ellis shows on loop in the studio for osmotic effect.) The label as they envision it has a feeling of their own line—and many of the same suppliers and factories—with a more commercial aesthetic, something they say has enabled them to push Duckie even farther, too. Now the question that looms over their debut tomorrow is, will the old Ellis legions approve?
“We’re a little damned if we do, damned if we don’t,” Silver said. “People are going to go ‘it’s very Perry, where’s Duckie?’; people are going to go, ‘it’s very Duckie, where’s Perry?’ I think we did it very successfully; it’s got a real sensibility.”
They, at least, are confident. “I always worry about Duckie Brown; I don’t know if it’s right or wrong,” Cox said. “With this, it’s the opposite.” A preview suggests he’s right to be confident, and Perry may be the latest label fashion’s go-to fixers—who have already helped to revive the fortunes of Florsheim shoes with their Florsheim x Duckie Brown collections—bring back from the beyond. Before tomorrow’s show, the designers shared an exclusive video of the work in progress, below.
Rumor has it that top model Karlie Kloss will be absent from runway shows during New York fashion week. CNN’s fashion reporter Alina Cho tweeted that Kloss is skipping New York for a “big opportunity.” [Racked]
Kate Moss is the cover star of W‘s March issue. The Steven Klein-lensed images show “Good Kate” and “Bad Kate.” [W]
Duckie Brown has joined forces with Perry Ellis on a designer collection set to debut at fashion week in September. Of the partnership, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver tell WWD, “Perry Ellis is synonymous with classic-yet-updated men’s apparel and the brand has a vibrant legacy. This opportunity has enormous potential and we are looking forward to bringing a new articulation of that legacy to retail.” [WWD]
In an effort spearheaded by Diane von Furstenberg and the CFDA, designers are pledging not to cast models under age 16 to walk in their runway shows. The initiative has gained some momentum, but model agencies and designers alike acknowledge that there is still some progress to be made. [NYT]
The womenswear shows may grab the biggest slice of attention at New York fashion week, but let’s not forget about the menswear designers slated to show over the next few days. Gilt Manual hasn’t. In anticipation of the shows to come, the site checked in with a number of experts, from designers to writers to creative directors, about the current and future state of American men’s fashion. Included among the eminent interviewees is the ever-quotable Tim Blanks (“Clothes are what I wear; fashion is what I want”). Want to see more menswear? Consider this a little reminder that Tim, along with yours truly, will be reviewing all the Fall ’11 menswear shows right here on Style.com.
Pictured, from left: Spring 2011 looks from Michael Bastian, Duckie Brown, and Simon Spurr.
Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com (Spurr)