15 posts tagged "Duckie Brown"
For all its incredible history (the path-breaking work of its founder and namesake; that old chestnut about one Marc Jacobs and his legendary and firing-worthy grunge collection), Perry Ellis had gone stale in recent years. But the announcement several months ago about the appointment of a design team has brought buzz back to the American label. Its new creative directors, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver (pictured), the partner-duo behind Duckie Brown, surprised many. Including the designers themselves.
Cox and Silver are the first to admit they came to Perry Ellis from a distance. “I have never been inspired by Perry Ellis in a Duckie Brown collection,” Cox said at a preview at their West Village studio. “Now, go on a few months, having looked at the videos and researched quite heavily into Perry Ellis, I feel it was a really good match. Perry Ellis was considered a little bit kooky, a little bit strange. He had this odd match, that doesn’t look as odd now.”
Kooky is a word often applied to Cox’s Duckie Brown collections, which don’t shy away from dramatic statements. The contemporary perception of Ellis, by contrast, is—to use a phrase the designers don’t much care for—”American sportswear.” “American sportswear seems to me, like, 1960-something,” Cox said. “I am American now, but I was born in England. I don’t have that root in me that is growing up as a teenager with that heritage Ralph Lauren preppy thing. I don’t know about cheerleaders, I didn’t go to a prom. I have no references that a lot of American designers do that are truly American.” His Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection will be “transatlantic sportswear”: beholden to the American tradition but with a more studied design flair.
While the Perry name has plenty of purchase, the designers actually began with a blanker slate than many realize. Ellis himself never did a men’s-only show in his lifetime. The label has no archive; Cox and Silver bought some pieces on eBay, but for the most part, they’re starting fresh. (They’ve been playing video of old Ellis shows on loop in the studio for osmotic effect.) The label as they envision it has a feeling of their own line—and many of the same suppliers and factories—with a more commercial aesthetic, something they say has enabled them to push Duckie even farther, too. Now the question that looms over their debut tomorrow is, will the old Ellis legions approve?
“We’re a little damned if we do, damned if we don’t,” Silver said. “People are going to go ‘it’s very Perry, where’s Duckie?’; people are going to go, ‘it’s very Duckie, where’s Perry?’ I think we did it very successfully; it’s got a real sensibility.”
They, at least, are confident. “I always worry about Duckie Brown; I don’t know if it’s right or wrong,” Cox said. “With this, it’s the opposite.” A preview suggests he’s right to be confident, and Perry may be the latest label fashion’s go-to fixers—who have already helped to revive the fortunes of Florsheim shoes with their Florsheim x Duckie Brown collections—bring back from the beyond. Before tomorrow’s show, the designers shared an exclusive video of the work in progress, below.
Rumor has it that top model Karlie Kloss will be absent from runway shows during New York fashion week. CNN’s fashion reporter Alina Cho tweeted that Kloss is skipping New York for a “big opportunity.” [Racked]
Kate Moss is the cover star of W‘s March issue. The Steven Klein-lensed images show “Good Kate” and “Bad Kate.” [W]
Duckie Brown has joined forces with Perry Ellis on a designer collection set to debut at fashion week in September. Of the partnership, Duckie Brown designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver tell WWD, “Perry Ellis is synonymous with classic-yet-updated men’s apparel and the brand has a vibrant legacy. This opportunity has enormous potential and we are looking forward to bringing a new articulation of that legacy to retail.” [WWD]
In an effort spearheaded by Diane von Furstenberg and the CFDA, designers are pledging not to cast models under age 16 to walk in their runway shows. The initiative has gained some momentum, but model agencies and designers alike acknowledge that there is still some progress to be made. [NYT]
The womenswear shows may grab the biggest slice of attention at New York fashion week, but let’s not forget about the menswear designers slated to show over the next few days. Gilt Manual hasn’t. In anticipation of the shows to come, the site checked in with a number of experts, from designers to writers to creative directors, about the current and future state of American men’s fashion. Included among the eminent interviewees is the ever-quotable Tim Blanks (“Clothes are what I wear; fashion is what I want”). Want to see more menswear? Consider this a little reminder that Tim, along with yours truly, will be reviewing all the Fall ’11 menswear shows right here on Style.com.
Pictured, from left: Spring 2011 looks from Michael Bastian, Duckie Brown, and Simon Spurr.
Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com (Spurr)
Clicking through Todd Selby’s snaps of Pharrell Williams’ art-filled Miami home, you could be struck by any number of things. Such as: Damn, that guy has a lot of KAWS paintings of Family Guy characters. Or, hey, why don’t I live in a spacious art-filled pad in Miami? Or, boy, it feels about 10 degrees colder in New York when you watch the sun glinting off somebody’s pool. But the one I’d encourage you to take away, if I may, is this one: Statement-colored shoes—even pink shoes, even for guys—can really make a white-tee-and-jeans outfit look like a whole lot more. And in fact, pink footwear, like Pharrell’s raspberry-hued boat shoes (left), has a long, proud history. I’m still kicking myself for missing the scuffed-up pink Chelsea boots Paul Smith showed on his men’s runway back in Fall ’09. At his color-saturated show at Pitti in Florence last season, Raf Simons showed pink on his men’s footwear—hidden on the soles. You can hold out for those when they hit stores this Spring, or, for instant gratification, head over to the Florsheim by Duckie Brown pop-up that’s currently open (through March) at 109 Mercer Street in New York’s Soho. Duckie designers Steven Cox and Daniel Silver have used color in particular to goose the ultra-trad Florsheim shapes: For Fall, there are brogues in a rich, bloody red not too far from Pharrell’s, and for Spring—arriving in store next month—suede bucks and wingtips in a Pepto color the designers call Chalk Pink.