15 posts tagged "Duckie Brown"
One of the dominant color stories in fashion at the moment is one that’s more familiar from the makeup case than the closet—the warm, blush pink tones we’ve been in the mood for lately. Our senior market editor, Marina Larroude, picked the best of the women’s offerings in soft, cosmetic shades, but I couldn’t help noticing, when the latest footwear collection by Duckie Brown‘s Steven Cox and Daniel Silver for Florsheim came across my desk, that the duo’s feeling the look for guys, too. The classics-with-a-twist they’re offering this season are shot through with a color they’re calling chalk pink. It shows up as a suede buck and a wingtip brogue (pictured), as well as an accent color on tri-tone cap-toes and saddle shoes. A lot of guys fear pink (except the most hardened of the preppy WASPs, who can appreciate a good baby-pink polo), but, I think, as a sparingly used accent, it looks fresh. It pairs beautifully with grays, navy, and light browns, but—unless you’re channeling Boy George in his eighties heyday—I’d steer clear of black.
After his inaugural Gant by Michael Bastian presentation—for which he transformed a pre-war gymnasium into a Bruce Weber fantasy filled with Gant-clad high school jocks (pictured below)—Bastian heaved a sigh of relief. “I feel like I have two kids,” he told us. “The easy one’s done. Next up is the problem child.” The easy one—Gant—was very good. Never mind that it’s owned by Swedes; Gant has spent decades making pitch-perfect American sportswear. Tapping Bastian for this collection makes eminent sense, and he tweaked rather than twisted that heritage. He nailed the corduroys, threw in a few great blazers and a rugby shirt (this is Gant, after all), intarsia’ed the knits with laxers and sticks, and called it a day. It was perfectly simple: no muss, no fuss.
Now, what of the line he had jokingly referred to as the problem child, his much more expensive signature collection (above)? He certainly didn’t take the easy path here. The inspiration, the designer said, was a British TV doc called Sex Change Soldier, about a veteran paratrooper who feels he’s actually a woman inside and undergoes a sex change. That got Bastian thinking about the two sides (at least) to every guy. Cue the runway’s opening shot: the first walker pausing in the entryway to rip off a ski mask. The man hidden and the man revealed—can’t say it much clearer than that.
Like Steven Cox and Daniel Silver at Duckie Brown, Bastian is marching to a skinhead beat this season. The totems were on display: the Dr. Martens, the suspenders, as well as such punkish close cousins as spike belts and safety pins. And yet, we’re still in Bastian country, so they’re paired with the fine Brunello Cucinelli knits, the perfectly tailored suit jackets. (The “menace mask” that opened the show? Cashmere.) But even after the skins vanished, to be replaced by a procession of uptown-ready young gentlemen, their rebel spirit cast a shadow. Suddenly, you noticed every little chink in the refined armor: the Stubbs & Wootton slippers embroidered with flaming skulls, the dog collar necklaces, the slightly kinky gloves. Even in the quietest moments, there’s a little menace mixed in. It made for one of Bastian’s most fascinating, penetrating shows to date.
For complete coverage of Fall 2010 menswear, visit www.gq.com/fashion.
“Skinhead” may have become a dirty word, unsalvageable in North America in light of its Neanderthal neo-Nazi associations, but when Duckie Brown’s Steven Cox was a teenager in London, it was the style the coolest boys picked up at Merc on Carnaby Street, and that’s what he was remembering with Duckie’s latest. It wasn’t just period, it was place that made this collection a departure for Cox and Daniel Silver. Family matters have taken Cox home a lot more in the past 12 months, so there was a distinctly English feel to the clothes. But if the cropped pants and bovver boots (Duckie for Florsheim) were maybe too specific to find favor with the average man-fash fan, the sleek black and scarlet crombies and the sharp, broad-shouldered tartan jackets—their hard-to-master saddle/rope shoulder a mark of Cox’s acute experience with tailoring—were more than enough to seduce modern dandies. The chord of decadent ambiguity that always gives a Duckie collection its peculiar spice was struck here by an abbreviated trench in an acidic lime shade and a bellows-pocketed jacket in a sugary tweed. But best in show for me was actually a humble jean jacket in dark Japanese denim. In its own subtle way, it was the most effective advertisement for the Duckie mastery of flattering fit.
For full coverage of the Fall 2010 menswear shows, visit www.gq.com/fashion.
If Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant has her way, offices will be filled with stylish Don Draper and sultry Joan clones. Bring it on. [WWD]
Introducing Edward, the new men’s line from Duckie Brown and Odin. As girls, we are officially jealous. [WWD]
Yes, Lindsay, it’s called pre-fall. Miss Lohan was pretty sure she had more time to work on her sophomore Ungaro collection, but the next show is fast approaching: “It’s already in January…I thought it was in March.” [People]
We didn’t know this was a revolving title, but apparently Inès de la Fressange has replaced Carla Bruni-Sarkozy as “the Most Chic Woman in Paris.” She’s certainly stylish, but check her out above, what do you think? [Telegraph U.K.]
Speaking of Inès, Karl Lagerfeld once had some not so nice things to say about her. Here, a handy compilation of the Kaiser’s bons mots over the years. [Jezebel]
Gucci catches on to the social media trend with the launch of a “global, multilingual, social networking microsite” today. Gucci lovers can upload pictures of themselves, which will be reflected in shades from new line Gucci Eyeweb. Next month, they’re switching to ski goggles. Very clever. [WWD]
Penélope Cruz in SATC 2? Now we’re interested. [People]