8 posts tagged "Dylan Jones"
“We’ve offered so many olive branches,” Dylan Jones, the editor in chief of British GQ, and chairman of the London Collections: Men, told WWD last week. “[The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” His statement was in response to an ongoing scheduling conflict that the newly established London menswear shows, which will run from January 6 through 8, have with Florence’s long-standing menswear fair, Pitti Immagine Uomo, whose eighty-fifth installment is set for January 7 through 10. In an interview with Style.com today, however, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone and director of special events and projects Lapo Cianchi argue that they’ve been more than cooperative. “We have had very good conversations with [British Fashion Council chairman] Caroline Rush,” offered Napoleone. “And we are totally open to finding a balance and solution to this situation.”
The concern on both parties’ ends is that, due to the current two-day overlap, editors and buyers will have to choose one fair over the other, and will miss key events in either city. Burberry, for instance, will present its Fall ’14 menswear lineup at 2 p.m. in London on January 7. Meanwhile, Diesel Black Gold—Pitti 85′s guest brand—is meant to hold its Fall ’14 show in Florence later that evening. Pitti’s (rather opulent) answer this time around is to charter a plane and fly about fifty editors to Florence immediately following the Burberry show.
The problem ends up involving all four major menswear cities: If Pitti were pushed back to accommodate London, Milan and Paris would have to alter their calendars as well. According to Napoleone, the Pitti team proposed a fix, to which Milan and Paris are reportedly not opposed: London would always run from January 6 through 8, Pitti would begin on the 8th, Milan on the 12th, and so on. “We’d have to show on the weekend, which is not exactly what we feel would be best for our clients or exhibitors,” expressed Napoleone, noting that while there would still be a one-day overlap, it was at least an improvement. “But as the French say, faute de mieux—if there are no other solutions, you have to accept it. The last time I was in London with Dylan and Caroline, I left them this very fair proposal, and we didn’t receive any answer.” As for why Pitti didn’t just concede to start on January 8 this season, Napoleone said, “The seventh was decided with Milan and Paris two years ago, before the new London fashion week had started.”
Napoleone insists that he has “no idea” what inspired Jones’ comment. “Dylan Jones is a supporter of Pitti. He always attends,” said Cianchi. “The real olive branch in this story is that every city is open to renouncing something. We are completely open,” Napoleone added.
Launched in June 2012, the London Collections: Men, which now kicks off the menswear season, has definitely made the fashion calendar a little tight (and consequently ruffled some old-establishment feathers along the way). However, it’s an important platform for the city’s wealth of menswear talent (both up-and-coming and established), who were previously made to present the day after the women’s shows—or simply in a different city. (Burberry, for instance, returned to its native London last season after a long history of showing in Milan.) But, according to WWD, the platform is getting some pushback from its Italian counterpart. This season, LC:M, which begins on January 6, overlaps two days with Florence’s Pitti Uomo, thus forcing buyers and editors to choose the shows, events, and presentations in one city over the other. “We haven’t reached any agreement [on dates],” said British GQ editor Dylan Jones, who serves as the chair of LC:M. “As far as I’m concerned, we’ve offered so many olive branches. [The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” Which metropolis will emerge victorious? Tune in this January to see how it all turns out.
As the men’s shows approach, the London Collections: Men (which will run from June 16 to 18) seems to be gaining more steam. Today, Dolce & Gabbana announced that it will open its fourth London boutique with a bash on June 15. Additionally, after being invited to kick off the season by London Collections: Men chair and British GQ editor in chief Dylan Jones, the brand will show its Spring ’14 tailoring collection during the event. Dolce & Gabbana, whose designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana noted in a statement that British tailoring is part of the house’s DNA, join high-profile names such as Burberry Prorsum, Rag & Bone, Paul Smith, and Jimmy Choo in presenting in London for the first time this season