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August 1 2014

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8 posts tagged "Dylan Jones"

Armistice, Italian Style

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Ky;ie Minogue

Yesterday’s storm in London was, perhaps, an apt metaphor for the turbulent scheduling kerfuffle between the London Collections: Men, which began today, and Pitti Uomo in Florence. But last night’s party at the Dolce & Gabbana store on Bond Street, which kicked off the LC:M festivities and marked the debut of the brand’s 2014 Pre-Fall tailoring collection, served as somewhat of a welcomed armistice. The evening was an elegant affair nicely demonstrating Anglo-Italian diplomacy—all the kids played nice.

Though Dolce & Gabbana are presenting their men’s runway show on Saturday in Milan, this party was their tip of the hat to what Stefano Gabbana recently called “one of his favorite places,” as well as a recognition of their deep respect for Savile Row tailoring. Storm or no storm, the shop was jam-packed with friends of the house—including cohosts Kylie Minogue and ballet dancer Roberto Bolle—and all were treated to a moving performance by violinist virtuoso Charlie Siem. To demonstrate their idea of “La Bella Italia,” Dolce & Gabbana brought in replicas of Italian architectural treasures that are close to the designers’ hearts. Standout pieces like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Colosseum, and La Valle dei Templi di Agrigento were artfully placed throughout the shop.

Dolce & Gabbana Pre-Fall

LC:M chair Dylan Jones, David Gandy, Thom Browne, James Rousseau, Thom Morell, Marvin Humes, and Jack Guinness were among the dapper gents who dropped by. But funnily enough, it was Ms. Minogue who showed the most enthusiasm for the upcoming men’s collections. Before she dashed off into the pelting rain, she offered, “I absolutely love to see how men are dressed and all the innovation that takes place during London’s men’s fashion week—it is all so exciting.”

Photo: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

Pitti Weighs In on the Overcrowded Menswear Calendar

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Pitti Uomo

“We’ve offered so many olive branches,” Dylan Jones, the editor in chief of British GQ, and chairman of the London Collections: Men, told WWD last week. “[The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” His statement was in response to an ongoing scheduling conflict that the newly established London menswear shows, which will run from January 6 through 8, have with Florence’s long-standing menswear fair, Pitti Immagine Uomo, whose eighty-fifth installment is set for January 7 through 10. In an interview with Style.com today, however, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone and director of special events and projects Lapo Cianchi argue that they’ve been more than cooperative. “We have had very good conversations with [British Fashion Council chairman] Caroline Rush,” offered Napoleone. “And we are totally open to finding a balance and solution to this situation.”

The concern on both parties’ ends is that, due to the current two-day overlap, editors and buyers will have to choose one fair over the other, and will miss key events in either city. Burberry, for instance, will present its Fall ’14 menswear lineup at 2 p.m. in London on January 7. Meanwhile, Diesel Black Gold—Pitti 85′s guest brand—is meant to hold its Fall ’14 show in Florence later that evening. Pitti’s (rather opulent) answer this time around is to charter a plane and fly about fifty editors to Florence immediately following the Burberry show.

The problem ends up involving all four major menswear cities: If Pitti were pushed back to accommodate London, Milan and Paris would have to alter their calendars as well. According to Napoleone, the Pitti team proposed a fix, to which Milan and Paris are reportedly not opposed: London would always run from January 6 through 8, Pitti would begin on the 8th, Milan on the 12th, and so on. “We’d have to show on the weekend, which is not exactly what we feel would be best for our clients or exhibitors,” expressed Napoleone, noting that while there would still be a one-day overlap, it was at least an improvement. “But as the French say, faute de mieux—if there are no other solutions, you have to accept it. The last time I was in London with Dylan and Caroline, I left them this very fair proposal, and we didn’t receive any answer.” As for why Pitti didn’t just concede to start on January 8 this season, Napoleone said, “The seventh was decided with Milan and Paris two years ago, before the new London fashion week had started.”

Napoleone insists that he has “no idea” what inspired Jones’ comment. “Dylan Jones is a supporter of Pitti. He always attends,” said Cianchi. “The real olive branch in this story is that every city is open to renouncing something. We are completely open,” Napoleone added.

Courtesy of Pitti Uomo

London and Florence Throw Down in a Sartorial Bro Brawl

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Burberry Menswear Spring/Summer 2014

Launched in June 2012, the London Collections: Men, which now kicks off the menswear season, has definitely made the fashion calendar a little tight (and consequently ruffled some old-establishment feathers along the way). However, it’s an important platform for the city’s wealth of menswear talent (both up-and-coming and established), who were previously made to present the day after the women’s shows—or simply in a different city. (Burberry, for instance, returned to its native London last season after a long history of showing in Milan.) But, according to WWD, the platform is getting some pushback from its Italian counterpart. This season, LC:M, which begins on January 6, overlaps two days with Florence’s Pitti Uomo, thus forcing buyers and editors to choose the shows, events, and presentations in one city over the other. “We haven’t reached any agreement [on dates],” said British GQ editor Dylan Jones, who serves as the chair of LC:M. “As far as I’m concerned, we’ve offered so many olive branches. [The Italian organizers] seem to be intransigent and don’t appear to be particularly interested in working with London, so we’re just going to go ahead.” Which metropolis will emerge victorious? Tune in this January to see how it all turns out.

Photo: Dave M. Benett / Getty Images

Rocket Man Opens LC:M

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Elton John & David Furnish

Three seasons in, and London Collections: Men has already set something of a tone with its opening events. Glad-handing with the Prince of Wales at St. James’s Palace, chewing over the trends with the PM at 10 Downing Street, and last night, breaking bread with Sir Elton John at his house in the country…the combination of grandeur and intimacy seems particular to the personality of British fashion, and its menswear in particular. After all, Savile Row, emblem of male style, distills centuries of imposing brick-and-mortar tradition into one single relationship: a man and his tailor.

The invitation to dinner in the Gallery at Windsor was extended to a fortunate forty or so by David Furnish, longtime supporter of British menswear, and GQ‘s Dylan Jones and Jo Levin. The night turned into a celebration not just of LC:M but also of Jones himself, who has just been gonged with an Order of the British Empire in the Queen’s Birthday Honours list. (Journalist Hilary Alexander was also OBE-ed.) It was largely an industry crowd, bar a couple of John and Furnish’s BFs, like Louise and Theo Fennell, who’d driven over from their own country pile. Theo’s two-tone winkle-pickers looked straight out of Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent collection. “They’re mine, and they’re very old,” he corrected.

But Slimane came to mind again an hour or so later, when, dinner over, a band of Irish mid-teens called The Strypes took to the stage that had been set up in the Gallery. They played a set of fearsome garage rock that was astonishingly authoritative for kids whose parents weren’t born when bands like The Seeds and the Flamin’ Groovies created the same glorious racket first time round. The sound and style of The Strypes made them more than likely candidates for the Hedi touch. But, closer to home, Natalie Massenet was sounding slightly awed as she wondered, “Where else could you go out expecting to celebrate a fashion week and have that introduced to you by someone like Elton John at the end of the evening?” Best call it LC:M stardust.

Photo: Josh Lawrence

London Called, Dolce & Gabbana Answered

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Stefano Gabbana and Domenico DolceAs the men’s shows approach, the London Collections: Men (which will run from June 16 to 18) seems to be gaining more steam. Today, Dolce & Gabbana announced that it will open its fourth London boutique with a bash on June 15. Additionally, after being invited to kick off the season by London Collections: Men chair and British GQ editor in chief Dylan Jones, the brand will show its Spring ’14 tailoring collection during the event. Dolce & Gabbana, whose designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana noted in a statement that British tailoring is part of the house’s DNA, join high-profile names such as Burberry Prorsum, Rag & Bone, Paul Smith, and Jimmy Choo in presenting in London for the first time this season

Photo: Filippo Fior/ InDigital/ GoRunway