13 posts tagged "E. Tautz"
Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane’s new jobs sparked a flurry of conjecture about the impact on women’s fashion of designers who’d made their rep in menswear. And it’s not likely to die down any time soon because there are plenty more men’s designers waiting to cross over. Like Alexander Lewis, who trained as a pattern cutter on Savile Row (he worked at E. Tautz before going solo) but has chosen to launch his own business with a Resort collection for women. His name scarcely broadcasts Brazil, but that is, in fact, his family background, and his first collection is inspired by his girlfriends who may live in London or New York but who maintain a Brazilian nonchalance about the way they dress. “They mix the city, the beach and something from their boyfriends,” Lewis explains. That might mean a skirt with shirt-tails, or a swingy little crochet top that could go with shorts or a bikini, or an item Lewis calls a beach coat (though it’s a little luxe to expose to sand and salt water). Brazil makes its presence felt in some of the designer’s techniques, particularly that crochet, and a silk woven inspired by the way that straw is woven in Brazilian furniture. But there’s nothing geographical about Lewis’s pragmatism. “I know exactly what I wanted to do,” he says. “I decided to focus on pre-collections for the first few seasons, because they’re a little more commercial, and I don’t have to do a show. And also, I see what I do as situational, rather than seasonal.” The situation being, in his case, both his family’s beach house in Bahia, and his own stomping ground in London. Bold to try and bring the two together.
After a more leisurely opening day, London ramped up the action considerably for Day 2 of its nascent London Collections: Men. Sibling’s first runway show had bodies in the seats at the unfriendly hour of 9 a.m., a requirement that proved worth it when their gold-flecked riot gear took the stage. E. Tautz’s Patrick Grant required a firm commitment from his guests, too, with a Wapping show space—his new studio#8212;farther afield than most. Once showgoers did secure cabs and made the journey out east, their perseverance was rewarded with a show about, appropriately enough, an explorer in foreign lands.
Traveling man segued into MAN, London’s group show for select up-and-comers. London is now quite good at supporting its young, and the heartening thing is, its young are quite good at supporting it. Happily, the three labels of MAN—Astrid Andersen, Agi & Sam, and Shaun Samson—were three of the most exciting of any seen so far. Andersen’s dark, sensual take on sportswear—as in, for sports—included sheer jerseys paneled with fur and boxing shorts worn over lace tights, mixing masculinity, sensuality, and exoticism is a way that at times recalled Riccardo Tisci. Her collection (pictured), she said backstage, owes something to the calm of her native Copenhagen and something to the turbulence of her adopted London—”and it’ll sell in Tokyo,” she added with a laugh. Shaun Samson, the most developed of the bunch, looked more than ready for his own show next season. The California native and Central Saint Martins grad added subtlety to the pieces he’s known for, like the felted and needlepunched chimera tunics, here worn over complementary pants. They gave way to low-slung, baggy shorts embellished in disco-ball silver with hand-embroidered tops whose silver beading made them look like gorgeous motherboards. There was a nineties flavor to the sagging plaids and ironic T-shirts—printed with Kawaii kittens, some sporting piercings to undermine the effect—and backstage, Samson cited Clueless as a point of reference. Continue Reading “Letter from London:
The Men’s Collections, Day 2″ »
After cramming a city’s worth of menswear offerings into a single MAN Day for the last few seasons, London is planning to give its standout men’s offerings a bit more room to breathe. The first men’s-only London fashion collections (technically three days, rather than a few weeks) will take place June 15 to 17, with opening programs including a launch event hosted by Prince Charles. In addition to the young London designers who have been showing on MAN DAY—like J.W. Anderson, James Long, Topman, Lou Dalton, and Christopher Shannon—the new opportunity has lured several U.K. brands back to their home turf, including Pringle of Scotland and Nicole Farhi, who have been showing in Milan, and Dunhill. E. Tautz, Hardy Amies, and Richard James will show ready-to-wear collections on Savile Row, and Richard Nicoll (pictured) will debut a menswear collection. The full schedule is now available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.
Tonight in London, the British Fashion Awards honored the best and brightest in the world of London style. Nick Knight screened a new fashion film to honor the late Alexander McQueen, winner of the BFC Outstanding Achievement Award in Fashion Design, and Celine’s Phoebe Philo (left) took home the prize for British Designer of the Year. English/Dutch model Lara Stone was named Model of the Year, and reluctant It girl Alexa Chung earned the British Style Award, which is decided by popular vote and “recognizes an individual who embodies the spirit of London and is an international ambassador for London as a leading creative fashion capital.”
The full list of winners is below, and check back with us for our full report from the evening’s festivities.
BFC Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Design: Lee Alexander McQueen
Designer of the Year: Phoebe Philo for Celine
Menswear Designer of the Year: Patrick Grant for E. Tautz
Accessory Designer of the Year: Nicholas Kirkwood
Designer Brand of the Year: Mulberry
Model of the Year: Lara Stone
Emerging Talent Award, Ready-to-Wear: Meadham Kirchhoff
Emerging Talent Award, Accessories: Husam El Odeh
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Nicola Formichetti
British Style Award: Alexa Chung
Special Recognition Award: Naomi Campbell
Digital Innovation Award: Burberry
Jo-Ann Furniss, editor in chief of Arena Homme+, reports from London fashion week’s MAN Day for Style.com.
One of the great things about MAN Day is the radically different perspectives on offer, perspectives that somehow all seem to get along famously. There are none of the handbags-at-dawn shenanigans of womenswear, so the faultless Savile Row tailoring traditions of E. Tautz can literally sit next to the punky, poppy, yet brilliantly accomplished knitwear of Sibling in Somerset House. (Sibling’s collection film by the photographer Alasdair McLellan was also one of the standout moments of the day.) Many of these fledgling London-based menswear and accessories designers have matured into forces to be reckoned with on an international stage this season, while at the same time losing none of their sense of fun and a take on a wider pop culture that seems more relevant than ever for fashion in the city.
This influence of musical subcultures was found in many of the shows, more precisely, the sixties and the seventies seen through the filter of the nineties. This was the case at Topman Design (above), who presented the sort of thrift shop boys you used to see in London idolizing West Coast psychedelia and wanting to be Bobby Gillespie, in effortless washed silk shirts and crumpled parkas. Continue Reading “At London Fashion Week, MAN Power” »