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July 30 2014

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8 posts tagged "Elizabeth Saltzman Walker"

Putting On—And Taking Off—The Best Of British Fashion

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London calls, and the world answers. London fashion week is in full swing, and what better time for an English retailer to indulge in a little justified bragging? Matches tapped London’s best designers for a new installation at its Marylebone flagship, which it debuted over the weekend to a crowd that included Giles Deacon, Norton & Sons’ Patrick Grant, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Tallulah Harlech, and the British Fashion Council’s Caroline Rush. The store’s mannequins were ingeniously dressed in key looks by U.K. labels including Stella McCartney, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Burberry, and Christopher Kane.

Matches’ stock is very English; its clientele, says CEO Tom Chapman, more a mix. “Fifty-five percent of our clientele is online, and half is international,” he said. “We send bucket loads to Australia and China—we’ve gotten used to tiny feet sizes. Then again, we get a lot of cool hunters after that very latest thing—and to be honest, much of that is created by our very own homegrown talent. They do us proud.”

The atmosphere last night on the South Bank, on the other hand, was a trifle more French—à la Moulin Rouge. The foxes were out for the launch of Marios Schwab’s new lingerie collection for Kallisti at the Crazy Horse. And not just the dancers who modeled the lingerie. A renegade (yet fashion-savvy) fox broke into one of the venue’s dressing rooms and chewed through dancers’ Louboutins right before show time.

For Schwab, lingerie has long been a part of life. “My dad worked in the lingerie industry for Triumph,” he said, “so I have always been surrounded by the stuff.” But it may be more topical just at present. “My seamstress is reading Fifty Shades of Grey during every break,” he laughed. “I think these days people are thinking, screw it—literally—we want to enjoy life, and our bodies.” A ten-minute show was enough to titillate the likes of Leigh Lezark, Harley Viera-Newton, Eliza Doolittle, and Pixie Geldof. And that, of course, was the point. “Being provocative is back on the menu in fashion,” Schwab said.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

At The Met: Cape Town

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We’ve already noted the influence Angelina Jolie had on this year’s Met ball red carpet. No less influential: Gwyneth Paltrow. Paltrow’s cape-and-gown Tom Ford look was Oscar night’s best, and it’s proven to have legs at the Met, too. Gwyneth’s stylist, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, told me at an event in Paris that she was inspired by Jackie Kennedy’s timeless chic when working on Gwyneth’s Academy Awards look. Last night, some of those donning capes, like Maria Grazia Chiuri, in Valentino, went for classic, too. But there were just as many others who chased glitz and glam. Lana Del Rey sparkled in custom Altuzarra, and Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, in Dolce & Gabbana, reminded me of an Italian movie star from the sixties. Sally Singer was lacy in Nina Ricci, but the cherry on the surrealist cake goes to Linda Fargo in custom Naeem Khan. Shocking, Schiaparelli-style.

Photos: Larry Busacca / Getty Images (Lana Del Rey); Joe Schildhorn / BFAnyc.com (Bianca Brandolini d’Adda, Linda Fargo)

BFC Announces Expanded Menswear Program

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As a development of the Men’s day at London fashion week, the British Fashion Council has just announced a new menswear showcase, entitled London Collections: Men, set to launch June 2012.

London Collections: Men, running June 15-17, will have most of the same brands and designers who participate in Men’s day, selected by chairman and GQ editor Dylan Jones and a team of fashion insiders like Christopher Bailey, David Furnish, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, and Style.com’s Tim Blanks. The participating brands that have been released so far include Savile Row, Aquascutum, and Margaret Howell.

Of the new program, Jones says, “This is a fabulous initiative and one that will undoubtedly draw even more attention towards London this year.” He added, “Whether you’re involved in sport, fashion, media, retail, entertainment, or tech, or indeed any industry, London is the place to be in 2012.”

Photo:Vogue U.K. / PA Photos

If The Shoe Fits…

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The Savile Club is one of London’s most elegant venues, where Robert Louis Stevenson, Thomas Hardy, H.G. Wells, and W.B. Yeats used to gather to drink and dine. Last night’s crowd was, if not quite as illustrious, perhaps a tad more sartorially distinguished. Charlotte Dellal (pictured) assembled family and friends for a celebration of her new Mayfair Charlotte Olympia shop. Rosamund Pike, Alice Temperley, Astrid Muçoz, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, and Ben Grimes all made appearances, as did many members of the Dellal clan: sister Alice, his girlfriend Charlotte Casiraghi of Monaco, father Guy, and mom Andrea, the last of whom (in enviable shape for a mother of four, and a new grandmother) wore a see-through houndstooth blouse.

If the guests were worn down from their LFW exertions, they didn’t show it. Elizabeth Saltzman Walker did wonder whether she could make it through the night without falling over, but there were plenty of catwalkers around if she needed any pointers. Earlier that day, Grimes had taken to the Pam Hogg runway wearing a Hannibal Lecter-eque mouth guard, and Dellal took her turn topless, dressed like a deer, and banging on a drum. All in all, it was a fairy-tale dinner, with a better-than-fairy-tale ending: a gift of a scarf, a new pair of Charlotte Olympias, and a stunning Perspex minaudière. “The shoes fit!” exclaimed Fiona Golfer, a contributing editor to British Vogue, easing her way down the velvet staircase. “Now I really feel like a Cinderella.”

Photo: Staff

Meet The 2010 Dorchester Collection Prize Semifinalists

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“Everyone involved in this was my A-list first choice,” Bronwyn Cosgrave declared of the panel of judges she assembled to select the five short-listed semifinalists for the first Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize at London’s Dorchester Hotel. That sentiment, one hopes, extends to said semifinalists, too. But Cosgrave could be forgiven for a little enthusiasm for the judging side of the table: It included Daphne Guinness, Manolo Blahnik, Giles Deacon, milliner Stephen Jones, Yasmin LeBon, Vanity Fair‘s Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, and ES fashion director Gianluca Longo. Despite the varied group, “it was a remarkably smooth decision process,” Blahnik said. “We saw the number of applications and hung our heads. But it turns out that we were largely unified despite our different personal aesthetics.” His co-panelist Guinness (pictured above with her fellow jurors) agreed heartily. “I take refuge in the arts,” she said. “It was wonderful to have us all agree so easily, so that I could realize that I am not crazy and my values are shared.”

The semifinalists are the English knitwear designer Louise Goldin; the Greek-born, London-based Mary Katrantzou; Hermione de Paula, who created a surprisingly dainty collection called “I Heart Elizabeth Berkley”; the sculptural footwear designer Chau Har Lee; and Thomas Tait, from Canada. The unifying factor—maybe the only one—is a commitment to craftsmanship and a preference for the conceptual (even, occasionally, at the expense of commercial viability).

But Guinness, for one, was all in favor. “Craftmanship needs to return,” she declared. “I am always overjoyed to see students who love to stitch their own seams. We need better things, not more. We should not pollute the world with meaningless, unused things when we can make and support things of rare and precious beauty.” As the only international fashion prize set to roam to a different fashion capital each year—at the site, not by coincidence, of a Dorchester Collection hotel; next year’s will be in New York—the award should do just that. The winner, to be announced in November, takes home a £25,000 prize and a free event at any of the Dorchester Collection’s properties.

Photo: Courtesy of the Dorchester Collection