Style.com

August 29 2014

styledotcom Models share their fashion month beauty must-haves: stylem.ag/1tOxVd7 @K_MITT @TheSocietyNYC pic.twitter.com/Q5reHhhgtS

Subscribe to Style Magazine
5 posts tagged "Elizabeth Saltzman"

Twenty-Four Years Later, Amanda Wakeley Gets Her Mayfair Dream Store

-------

Elizabeth Hurley and Amanda WakeleyOne of the few who has dressed both Kate Middleton and Princess Diana, never mind a passel of stars including Angelina Jolie, Scarlett Johansson, Florence Welch, and more, Brit designer Amanda Wakeley is a twenty-four-year veteran in the business. At her celeb-dense shop opening last night on London’s Albemarle Street, she described how she’s seen the fashion landscape in The Smoke change over the years.

“It is very competitive now, and there is a much greater choice of outstanding products at all levels of the market—plus the customer is far more discerning.” Wakeley also believes designers have stepped up their marketing game. “There is much more awareness of brand DNA—an integral part of building a successful business.”

Despite having a career and longevity most designers could only dream of, Wakeley insists that now is the most exciting time for her, especially with achieving a lifelong ambition of opening a Mayfair shop. This one is even Grade 2 listed, which means, in Brit speak, that it has historical significance. “It is such a privilege to be in a building with such heritage and structure…the staircase was put in by a couturier in the twenties, and I just knew this was the space for us.”

Tracey Emin, Liz Hurley, Elizabeth Saltzman, the BFC’s Caroline Rush, and more crushed into the shop that Wakeley says is representative of the “beginning of a new era for us.” Next on the docket is a return to the London fashion week schedule after a few seasons’ hiatus.

So after dressing the crème de la crème, who is left on her wish list? “Well, I do think Jennifer Lawrence has a wonderful look.” We have a sneaking suspicion the star will be wearing Dior to the Oscars, but who knows what the red carpet may bring.

Gurung And Ginger Spice, Together At Last

-------

The Himalayas? The Alps? They’re both pointy piles of rock with snow on top. That was Elizabeth Saltzman’s irresistible logic for her choice of an Alpine lodge as the venue for the dinner she hosted in London on Wednesday night for Kathmandu’s favorite son, Prabal Gurung. Of course, it wasn’t any old Alpine lodge. Bodo’s Schloss is the latest addition to Piers Adams and Nick House’s portfolio of William ‘n’ Harry-endorsed nightspots. It’s so new that the place still refreshingly reeked of the pine-planked floors, walls, and ceiling. In keeping with the theme, there was schnitzel and glühwein and pretty servers in lederhosen and dirndls, and an oompah band playing chart hits.

Nepal? Hardly. But there were echoes of other chapters in the Gurung saga. The Spice Girls, for instance. Once an ardent fan, Prabal was parked next to Geri Halliwell during dinner. It was a pinch-me moment for him, and it’s one of his most endearing characteristics that he is endlessly appreciative of the turns his life has taken.

It’s no wonder the energy in the room was a little skittish. Saltzman claimed she’d worked 38 hours straight. And the guest of honor only made it by the skin of his teeth, due to a visa issue. We know Prabal knows how to party, but the last-minute triumph over bureaucracy sure fanned the disco inferno ignited by KCD’s Alex Malgouyres from his chairlift-cum-DJ-booth for a crowd that included such stalwarts of Saltzman’s clique as Gwyneth Paltrow, Camilla al-Fayed, Natalia Vodianova, Elle Macpherson and Cameron Diaz, fresh from the London premiere of her latest movie Gambit. If it was Prabal’s first trip to London in well over a decade, the evening also gave locals a chance to familiarize themselves with PR titan KCD, which has just opened a London office. As far as introductions go, the titan left a pleasantly pine-scented pawprint.

Photos: Courtesy Photo

Pleats, Please

-------

Before last September, the name Emilia Wickstead was one of those slightly privileged pieces of information passed around amongst the chic set—including Samantha Cameron—in Belgravia, Chelsea and other tony London nabes. But during this past London fashion week, the 28 year-old Central Saint Martins grad went from quietly doing made-to-measure in her three floor atelier on Cadogan Place to a ready-to-wear debut in a full runway show.

“It was one of the most stressful things I’ve ever done,” said Wickstead last week over a breakfast of eggs and soldiers at Café Cluny. And this is from a girl who recently not only designed her own gown for her Tuscan wedding—photographed by British Vogue for its November issue—but also custom-designed ten different dresses for her ten bridesmaids. Stress aside, with an exclusive at Matches for her Spring collection, and a late of meetings with stores in New York to lay the groundwork for next Fall, things chez Wickstead are off to a promising start.

Now that edgy London’s much more of a lady’s town (see Erdem, Saunders, Ilincic, Katrantzou), Wickstead’s unadorned brand of elegance fits right in. Still, her clean-lined pieces like sharply pleated skirts and dresses and lantern-sleeved tops and crisp tailored pants aren’t stuffy. Rather they have a delicate but cool romance that recalls Chloé. You can also detect a hint of American and Italian sportswear that’s evidence of Wickstead’s transcontinental resume which includes stints at Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Giorgio Armani. Fittingly, Wickstead reports that more than half of her client base is made up of New Yorkers, among them ex-pats Elizabeth Saltzman and Lillian von Stauffenberg. For them, she’ll still be running up custom dresses made by her in-house machinists and patternmakers. The ready-to-wear, however, will impressively be made in Italy. “I use Prada’s pleaters,” says Wickstead. Consider our ears perked.

Photo: Courtesy of Emilia Wickstead

A Showstopping Sister Act

-------

“I’m sad because three designers didn’t win,” said Giovanna Battaglia on Saturday evening at the Beverly Hills Hotel, where the Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize Grand Final was taking place. She and her fellow judges, including Georgina Chapman, Keren Craig, Francisco Costa, Elizabeth Saltzman, and Derek Blasberg, evaluated four up-and-comers (Anndra Neen, Giulietta, Julian Louie, and Siki Im) based on one last fashion show, walked by America’s Next Top Model contestants.

As guests including Tracy Ross and Cameron Silver mingled in the Rodeo Ballroom, the panel deliberated for the mere 15 minutes allotted before announcing the winner, Anndra Neen, by the sister design duo Phoebe and Annette Stephens. The jewelry and accessories collection, inspired by their Mexican art world upbringing, is characterized by large, almost armor-evocative statement pieces in mixed metals, including skeletal corset belts. Sympathetic as Battaglia was to the designers of the other three lines, she voted for Anndra Neen. “I’ve loved them since the beginning,” she said. “I photographed their pieces years ago.” For Costa, the decision was a tricky one. “Ultimately, it was a question of longevity,” he said. “Anndra Neen seems to have a great business sense and of course, beautiful product.”

Photo: Michael Kovac / Getty Images

The New Kids On The Block: The Dorchester 2011 Semifinalists

-------

To make a star, or perpetuate one? That was the question the judges of this year’s Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize asked themselves as they deliberated over a list of 77 contending designers at New York’s Le Bernardin on Wednesday afternoon. After two hours of discussion, this year’s panel of judges, which included Calvin Klein’s Francisco Costa (pictured, right), Thom Browne, Marchesa’s Keren Craig, Giovanna Battaglia, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Derek Blasberg, Shala Monroque, and Lauren Santo Domingo, had whittled the list down to five names in a miraculously seamless manner.

“Let me tell you, last year it was not that easy—there was definitely shouting,” said Bronwyn Cosgrave of the panel she assembled last year. (The group included the likes of Manolo Blahnik and Daphne Guinness, and gave the top prize to Thomas Tait.) “I’m excited by this year’s list because at the end of the day, I started this project to help young designers get their name out there and to support them.” That mission became a clear group initiative after judges repeatedly brought up familiar names like Cushnie et Ochs, Ohne Titel, and Jen Kao, and then eventually removed them from the running for the $40,000 prize and the opportunity to show during Paris Fashion Week. Instead, the group chose lesser-known names like jewelry label Anndra Neen, Sofia Sizzi’s womenswear line, Giulietta, Siki Im (pictured, left), and Setareh Mohtarez (an unknown who judges repeatedly mentioned for the beautiful sculptural work). The only debatable exception to the rule was the fifth finalist: Julian Louie. “He interned for me at Calvin and he’s extremely talented,” Costa said of the designer. In addition to working with Costa, he’s received guidance from Santo Domingo, and recently finished a shoe collaboration with Aldo. The winner will be announced in late October.


Photo: Mark Von Holden/ Getty Images