15 posts tagged "Ellen von Unwerth"
Sex and streetwear aren’t the most obvious bedfellows, but editor, stylist, and all-around provocateur Andrew Richardson has united them in his new store, Richardson. “I don’t know if there is a logical connection between sex and streetwear, but I always thought that streetwear was sexy and cool,” he mused between puffs on a cigarette. “There’s always an attitude, and I think that’s sexy—sexy confidence.” That may be so, but his shop, which opens this Friday at 325 Broome Street in New York, sells swag that’s arguably more perverse than confidence-boosting hoodies.
Best known for his cerebral, self-titled sex magazine, also called Richardson, Andrew is well versed in the streetwear subculture—he’s even done a bevy of projects with cult label (or, as some would argue, lifestyle) Supreme. In his store, Andrew presents his liberated take on sex and bondage via clever T-shirts, bomber jackets, swim trunks, caps, and towels—many of which were created in collaboration with such artists as Christopher Wool, Bjarne Melgaard, and Aaron Bondaroff. Some highlights include a melting snowman shirt by Nate Lowman; a tee printed with a car that reads “Blow Jobs”; totes scribed with the store’s ethos, “Work hard, play nice, communicate”; and a sweatsuit by artist Mark Gonzales. Embellished with images of lady parts and a cowboy flaunting his impressive member, the latter is guaranteed to inspire stares.
The shop goes beyond threads, though. For instance, good pal Olympia Le-Tan designed a signature patch for Richardson’s club car jacket—more intriguing, though, is her capsule of erotic minaudières (think bags embroidered with busty femmes and titles like Fanny Hill, Cutter Girl, Carnal Cargo, or Sweet and 20.) Above the clutches’ case hang drawings by Japanese artist Hauro Namaikawa that depict couples in compromising, albeit comical, positions. And, across the room, shelves are lined with an A-to-Z collection of erotic tomes, which was curated by Idea Books, London. Richardson is, of course, on sale, too. “There are going to be guys who are my age who are going to come in and spend $1,800 on an original drawing, and I think we’ll have 25-year-old skaters who want to wear fucked-up T-shirts to scare their parents,” said Andrew of his clientele. “There’ll be a range.”
When the editor—whose résumé, it should be noted, includes working on Madonna’s Sex book, as well as shoots with heavyweights like Terry Richardson, Steven Meisel, and Ellen von Unwerth—was asked about the thinking behind his sex-themed products, he told us, “I was always into that idea of idolizing women through sexual provocation…and I’m trying to find that fine line between palatability and provocation. If you’re too provocative, you end the debate.” Ultimately, his patrons will be the ones to decide whether he’s found that balance; however, no matter how explicit or ridiculous Richardson’s offerings may be, everything is done with a wink, a smile, and a streetwise attitude. And somehow, that makes it seem all the sexier.
Leave it to Kenzo designers and Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to host a full-on Fourth of July BBQ a Paris. On Thursday, the pair invited guests such as André Saraiva, Rose McGowan, Sarah Andelman, Ellen von Unwerth, and Léa Seydoux to the Jardin d’Acclimatation, where they got their fix of hamburgers, hot dogs, fries, and nineties jams. The occasion (other than an Independence Day celebration for the visiting Américains) was the unveiling of Kenzo’s Fall ’13 campaign. This season, the designers teamed up with Toilet Paper magazine founders (and the evening’s cohosts) Maurizio Cattelan, Pierpaolo Ferrari, and Micol Talso, to create their imagery. The surreal ads (below) star Leon and Lim pals Rinko Kikuchi and Sean O’Pry, who pose among a cast of giant insects, gangs of mice, bananas, kittens hiding in boots, the Fall collection’s eye motif, and Cattelan’s favorite—the tiger dog.
Cattelan—an OC devotee—reported that he was pleasantly surprised when Leon and Lim called to collaborate, and described the shoot as a “creative laboratory.” In addition to appearing in Fall glossies, the ads will be featured in Kenzine—a limited-edition Toilet Paper-esque magazine—as well as on a capsule collection of sweatshirts and T-shirts, which will hit stores this September.
“I always like to do fun, quirky things,” said Olympia Le-Tan, the French designer best known for her clever, literary handbags. Having presented her Bavarian-inspired Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection in Paris’ Museum of Hunting and Nature last March, Le-Tan wanted to incorporate the space, which she recalls was filled with “heads of deer and things like that,” into her lookbook. Shot by Yannis Vlamos, Le-Tan’s Fall 2013 posters feature her Germanic pinup wares topped with drawings of various fauna heads—think foxes, deer, and bears—all of which were penned by her father, famed French illustrator Pierre Le-Tan. “We share a similar creative vision,” said the designer of her pops, who also creates the prints for her collections. “And I must say, I really like the smiley face he did (above). That was a bit of a liberty he took.”
In addition to the animal visages, Le-Tan’s lookbook boasts images snapped by Ellen von Unwerth (above), who, in part, influenced the sexed-up looks. “I thought the clothes were very her,” the designer offered. At the moment, Le-Tan is holed up in her Paris studio, working on her Spring collection, as well as her portfolio for the ANDAM competition—she was nominated for the coveted prize earlier this year and will compete against Alexandre Mattiussi, Masha Ma, Iris van Herpen, and others on July 4. “I’m nervous and excited,” she told Style.com. “I really don’t like losing, so I’m working very hard to make sure that I don’t.”
It may not come as a surprise to those who have seen her work gravity-defying wonders in an Anthony Vaccarello gown slit just about to her sternum, but Anja Rubik isn’t shy about sex or sexuality. And now, with her relaunch of 25 Magazine, she’s creating a forum to talk about it.
Rubik has been involved with the magazine since 2009, when she and then-boyfriend (now-husband) Sasha Knezevic signed on to work on the Viennese title, but she’s since taken full editorial control and rebranded the glossy in the image of Viva, the Bob Guccione-published erotica mag targeted at women, which ran from 1973 through the end of the decade. But mere smut it isn’t; the new issue, shot entirely by women, features photos by Inez van Lamsweerde, Annie Leibovitz, Ellen von Unwerth, and Paola Kudacki, whose “Heroes of 25″ series is pictured above.
Calling in from her native Poland—between shooting in London and jetting off to Cannes, where on Wednesday she’ll launch the magazine with a party at Pierre Cardin’s manse Palais Bulles—Rubik spoke with Style.com about sex versus sensuality, men versus women, and the lessons she’s learned as a newly minted editor. Key among them: Don’t fear the nipple.
Tell me about the vision for 25.
I had the idea because I really loved the magazine Viva from the seventies, which was a Penthouse publication for women. I loved the vision of it, and that was what formed the inspiration for me. 25 is basically directed toward very strong-minded, ambitious women, who are very comfortable with themselves and their sexuality. I was thinking a lot recently and looking how sex is approached nowadays, and nudity, and bodies. Erotica kind of disappeared. The way we approach sex is either really prude or very vulgar.
What will be in the new issue?
Every picture that’s in the magazine is shot by a woman. We have incredible photographers, like Inez [van Lamsweerde], Emma Summerton, and Katja Rahlwes. Annie Leibovitz donated pictures. Ellen von Unwerth. Basically, the magazine consists of beautiful images. It’s less of a magazine, more of an album. And in general, 25 is more than the magazine. We were trying to create an identity, to do a lot of projects connected to it. We’re doing one with Net-a-Porter that will launch quite soon. We did a video with Barnaby Roper and Kanye West that will launch at Colette. It’s a whole lifestyle, a whole vision.
Were there editors you looked to for inspiration or advice? Or other magazines?
I had a lot of references from past magazines, and Viva was the very big inspiration. [But also] Playboy from the seventies, Penthouse from the seventies. And of course editors, yes, Carine [Roitfeld] was a big inspiration as well. Fabien Baron is incredible; I think he has an incredible vision, so clean and minimalistic, that influenced the magazine as well. But I didn’t want it to be too clean on the other hand, because the inspiration was the seventies, and the magazines in the seventies are very far from that. It was a bit of a struggle. And I don’t want it to be taken too seriously. There’s a lot in it that has a sense of humor, a wink.
Do you think men and women approach sex differently?
I think it’s definitely different. In general, I think women approach it in a more sensual way, and a more personal way than a man. A man looks at it and thinks is it sexy or not. A woman will look at every little detail and more of the feeling of the image rather than is the girl sexy. For a woman to take a sexy picture, it takes way more than for a man.
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